The future of solar is bright in Georgia, and we are leading the way in making our state a national leader in solar energy. To help meet our customers’ growing electricity needs, we’re committed to using reliable, cost-effective and renewable energy sources that work best in our state.
Solar Energy in Georgia
The sun is one of the most valuable power sources available. Learn how Georgia is positioned for a renewable Solar Energy future.
Residential Solar Solutions
The potential for solar energy use in Georgia is dependent upon the amount of sun shining on the earth’s surface called solar insolation.
Business Solar Solutions
To help meet our customers’ growing electricity needs, Georgia Power is committed to using reliable, cost-effective, renewable energy sources that work best in our state.
What solar solution is right for you?
Use our solar adviser tool to explore considerations and estimated costs for a solar panel installation on your home. Get real life figures to help you determine the best solar program for you and your goals.
Two ways to get solar energy
Solar Electric Power
In this approach, electricity is converted directly from solar energy through solar cells known as photovoltaic cells – photo for light and voltaic for energy.
Normally mounted on the roof or in a location with maximum sun exposure, the photovoltaic (PV) array components convert energy from the sun into electric current to power appliances and other household devices.
A PV system requires little maintenance and can produce power for more than 20 years.
Solar Thermal Energy
Heating water using electricity can make up 14-25% of the average home’s utility bill. A residential solar water heating system can be designed to meet between 50 and 80% of a home’s water heating requirements.
A solar water heating system requires collectors to absorb the sun’s energy and a storage system to hold the energy until it is needed. The systems used to store thermal energy are similar to conventional water heaters. The heated water is circulated through the home or building using pumps.
Georgia’s Solar Potential
The potential for solar energy use in Georgia is dependent upon the amount of sun shining on the earth’s surface called solar insolation. Several factors such as weather patterns, humidity and haze can affect local insolation levels.
As can be seen on this solar map, insolation values in Georgia are significant enough to support solar energy systems in our state, with the southern two-thirds of Georgia having solar insolation values equivalent to most of the state of Florida.
The Titan Solar Generator by Point Zero Energy
The Titan Solar Generator is ready to provide you with a reliable solar panel backup that will be ready anytime you need it, making this one of the most versatile portable solar generators on the market. It’s easily one of the best solar generators available. It’s proudly built with effective, quality components that will make you and your household feel at ease during blackouts or emergencies. The MPPT charge controller is a powerful touch as it allows you to add up to 2000w solar input and greater protection against power outages.
With the help of its intuitive 3000-watt pure sine wave inverter technology, the Titan Solar Generator can easily adapt to any kind of situation you throw at it as it has a different variety of panels, the Flex, Rigid, or Briefcase Titan Solar Panels. This innovative approach will give you greater portability without compromising power. By separating the battery from the other components you can add or replace batteries and solar panels quickly and easily, expanding to your individual power needs. You can charge the Titan Solar Generator with solar panels, wind, and the standard AC wall charger, even all three at the same time.
What Is Included With Your Titan Solar Generator Order?
For the Stand-Alone Titan Solar Generator, here are the following inclusions:
- 1x Titan portable solar generator (Module and one battery)
- 1x MC4 to SAE (to jump-start with solar panels)
- 2x MC4 to Anderson adapter
- 1x AC 14A Wall charger
- 1x Titan Manual
What Can You Power With The Titan Portable Solar Generator (Per Battery)?
- Power Smartphones For over 300 hours
- Power Refrigerators For Over 36 hours
- Power a 50 TV For Over 30 hours
- Power Tablets. For Over 60 hours
- Power Laptops For Over 40 hours
- Power LED Lights For Over 330 hours
- Power CPAP Machine For Over 60 hours
- These rough power time frames are based on running one battery. If you add a second battery, you will double all of these run times. You can add up 4 or 5 batteries if you’d like, but no more than 6.
Titan Solar Kit Sizes
Maximize the use of your Titan Solar Generator and power up all of your equipment with these kits:
500 Watt Titan Flex Kit by Point Zero Energy 500 watts of solar. Along with one battery, you’ll be using a solar generator that is more powerful and efficient than nearly all other portable generator systems available. The Titan powers most home appliances, including the washing machine, fridge, microwave, cooktop stove, fans, lights, TVs, and most electronics. This package in ideal conditions will charge one Titan battery in 4 hours.
1000 Watt Titan Flex Kit by Point Zero Energy. 1000 watts of solar. Adding the extra solar panels gives you greater power output and allows you to power everything the 500 watts solar does and takes care of more power needs. On cloudy days, the Titan generator will still produce a lot of power, and when the sun shines, you can run most electronics and appliances without draining the battery. This package is in ideal condition and will charge one Titan battery in 2 hours.
1500 Watt Titan Flex Kit by Point Zero Energy 1500 watts of solar – With additional solar panels, you also receive an extra battery to take advantage of all of the extra power. You now have even greater power output to run many other things including water pumps, fridge and freezer, vacuums, small air conditioners, and many power tools. This package comes with two Titan batteries and in ideal conditions will charge them both in 3.5 hours.
2000 Watt Titan Flex Kit by Point Zero Energy 2000 watts of solar- Adding an additional 500 watts of solar panels will mean recharging the Titan even quicker and provide more power during cloudy days. This package comes with two Titan batteries and in ideal conditions will charge them both in 2 hours.
Titan Solar Generators Specs:
- AC Inverter: 3000 watts continuous, 6,000 watts surge
- Battery Voltage: 24V
- Output Voltage: 120V AC pure sine wave
- Continuous Power Output: 3,000 watts (recommended 1500 watts with one battery pack)
- Peak Power Output: 6,000 watts
- Solar Input inVolts: up to 145VDC Inwatts: up to 2000w AC charging: 580 watts or 1160 watts Inverter power consumption: 5-20 watts
- Number of Outlets: 6
- USB Ports: 6 Smart USB, 2 USB C
- Weight: 32lbs Top Module 35lbs Each Battery (Top inverter piece separates from the battery for easy transportation and portability)
- Dimensions: 18.5x12x12
Features of Titan Solar Generators:
- Removable and expandable lithium-ion battery allows you to add or replace batteries quickly and easily.
- Large battery capacity with a life span of up to 10 years.
- Large efficient inverter with a no-load power draw of as low as 5 watts, efficiency up to 92%.
- AN oversized MPPT charge controller allows you to add up to 2000 watts of solar.
- Powerful AC charger will charge your battery pack in around 5 hours with an option to add a second charger for faster charge times
- MC4 to SAE connections for jump-starting with a solar panel
- Cigarette to SAE connections for charging from a car
WARRANTY: The warranty period for the Titan solar power module is two years from the date the product is received. The warranty period for the Titan solar generator lithium-ion battery packs, whether purchased as a stand-alone product or in a system, is two years from the date the product is received.
Point Zero’s Titan Solar Generator FAQs
How Much Does Point Zero Energy’s Titan Solar Generator Cost?
Currently, The Titan Solar Generator is priced at 3,395. Solar panel kits are also available to purchase, depending on how much power you will be needing.
How Much Solar Can I Add To The Titan Solar Generator?
Up to 2,000 watts or a minimum of 35V but not over 145V.
What Type Of Output Power Is The Titan Generator?
The Titan portable solar generator runs on pure sine-wave AC.
Can I Charge My Titan Generator With A Wall Charger And Solar At The Same Time?
Yes, you can use your wall charger and charge with solar at the same time. When doing this, make sure you don’t charge over 1000 watts combined per battery.
Can I Add External Batteries To The Solar Power System?
Yes, Titan Solar Generators are very flexible and can connect to 24V external batteries such as (8S) LiFePo4 and AGM deep cycle batteries. However, for lithium batteries, we suggest you use ones that have built-in battery management systems (BMS).
How Many Battery Packs Can I Add To The Titan Generator?
Technically speaking, there is no limit to the number of battery packs you can add to the Titan. However, to keep charging times within a reasonable time frame, we recommend not going over 6 battery packs.
What Is The Shipping Cost Of Titan Solar Generator?
How Long Will it Take to Deliver the Titan Solar Generator?
When not back-ordered the titan solar generator will ship in 3-5 business days.
Click the link below for our in-depth review of the Titan Solar Generator.
Why the Titan Solar Generator is a GAME CHANGER:
In a world where natural disasters, power outages, and emergencies are becoming increasingly common, it is crucial to be prepared and self-sufficient. A reliable and sustainable power source is an essential component of any prepping strategy, off-grid living plan and backup power supply. The Titan Solar Generator stands out as a top choice for addressing these needs, offering a range of features that make it an indispensable tool for anyone seeking a dependable and eco-friendly power solution.
Impressive Power Output
The Titan Solar Generator boasts a 3000-watt continuous pure sine wave inverter, providing twice the capacity of many other solar generators on the market. This remarkable power output ensures that you can run essential appliances and devices, such as refrigerators, washing machines, and air conditioners, even during emergencies or while living off the grid. With the Titan Solar Generator, you can maintain a comfortable and safe living environment no matter the circumstances.
Versatile Charging Options
The Titan Solar Generator is designed to accommodate a variety of charging methods, including solar panels, wind power, and standard AC wall chargers. This flexibility allows you to harness multiple energy sources simultaneously, ensuring that your batteries remain charged and ready to use in any situation. The Titan Solar Generator’s ability to accept up to 2,000 watts of solar input also means that your batteries will recharge faster, providing you with more power when you need it most.
Expandable and Modular Battery System
One of the standout features of the Titan Solar Generator is its expandable battery system. Unlike other solar generators with fixed battery capacities, the Titan Solar Generator allows you to easily add or replace battery packs to meet your specific power requirements. This modular design offers unmatched flexibility and ensures that your investment in the Titan Solar Generator remains future-proof.
Portability and Ease of Use
The Titan Solar Generator is designed with portability and ease of use in mind. Its detachable components make it simple to transport, and its intuitive design ensures that you can set up and start using the generator with minimal effort. Whether you’re bugging out during an emergency or setting up a long-term off-grid living situation, the Titan Solar Generator provides a convenient and user-friendly power solution.
Eco-Friendly Power Source
As a solar generator, the Titan Solar Generator is an environmentally friendly power solution that reduces your reliance on non-renewable energy sources. By harnessing the power of the sun, you can minimize your carbon footprint and contribute to a greener, more sustainable future. This is especially important for those who are prepping or living off the grid, as it enables you to maintain your independence while also promoting environmental responsibility.
The Titan Solar Generator is a must-have for anyone seeking a reliable, powerful, and eco-friendly power solution for their prepping, backup power and off-grid needs. Its impressive power output, versatile charging options, expandable battery system, portability, and eco-friendliness make it an invaluable addition to your emergency preparedness kit or off-grid living plan. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to invest in the Titan Solar Generator and secure a dependable power source for any situation.
For a more in-depth review of the Titan Solar Generator, check out this blog!
Frequently Asked Questions about the Titan Solar Generator:
Can I Charge an Electric Vehicle with the Titan Solar Generator?
You can charge an electric vehicle with the Titan Solar Generator, however you can only use a 120V charger(Level 1). Also as for many electric vehicles, the input needs to have a ground bonded to the neutral (The Titan uses a floating ground). There are adaptors you can buy to plug into the outlet of the Titan to bond the ground and neutral to make this work. This is actually easy to fix with a 10 adapter. However we don’t give electrical advice, so you should talk to a certified electrician to verify this will work safely in your situation.
The other issue is that with a level one charger it will take 4 days (24 hours per day) to charge a Tesla (hybrids like a the Chevy volt will not be nearly as long), and even with 2,000 watts of solar you could only charge for about 4-5 hours per day which means it would take about 19-24 days to charge. This makes it a little impractical to use all the time for a Tesla.
Can I use a Wind Turbine with the Titan Solar Generator?
Yes, you can use a wind turbine with the Titan Solar Generator. There are several ways to use one depending on the turbine.
1- If the output of the turbine is 35-145VDC, you can connect the output directly to one of the MPPT input ports (using an Anderson powerpole connector).
2- If the Turbine has its own charge controller and the Voltage output is for 24V (charges up to 29.2v or lower), you can plug the output of the charge controller into the AC charging port using a red Anderson sb50 plug. If the charge voltage is under 29.2V, the battery (batteries) will not get 100% charged, however, it will not damage the batteries and they should still get charged to 95% or more.
3- If the output of the wind turbine is AC, you will need to convert it to DC voltage in the range of 35-145VDC. This can be done with a bridge rectifier, however, I would suggest contacting your wind turbine manufacturer to see how this would best be done.
Can I use my own solar panels with the Titan Solar Generator?
Yes, you can use your own panels with the Titan. You just need to make sure they are arranged in a way to produce a voltage between 35-145V DC. Lower than 35V DC will not charge the Titan Solar Generator and a Voltage over 145V DC can damage the MPPT controller.
Can I wire my Titan Solar Generator into my home electrical system?
The Titan Solar Generator is only 120V AC, so it cannot be wired into the entire electrical system of your house. However, an electrician can wire up a 120V sub panel to run emergency 120V appliances. This sub panel can even be put onto a transfer switch (manual or automatic).
It is extremely important to include the transfer switch to make it impossible to have the grid on at the same time as the Titan Solar Generator. If you don’t do this, you could electrocute a lineman working on the grid, or damage the Titan when the power comes on.
Point Zero Energy is not liable for any loss, cost, expense, inconvenience or damage that may result from use, misuse, or inability to use this product as directed in our User Manual.
Can you combine two Titan Solar Generators to get 240V Split Phase power?
Our current Titan Solar Generator does not have this ability, however, the next version we’re working on will have this capability. At this time, we don’t have a definite release date or price for the Titan 2.0. That information will be released closer to our pre-sale.
Do your solar kits include everything I need for the Titan Solar Generator to work?
Yes, all of the Titan kits include everything you need to get your Titan generator working. However, they do not come with solar panel stands or panel mounting hardware. If you are planning to permanently mount rigid panels or using a stand for the flexible panels, you will have to make or purchase those separately.
- (1) Titan solar generator with one 2000 watt hour battery Mc4 extension wires
- Cigarette to SAE wire (for charging from a car)
- MC4 to SAE (for resetting battery with solar)
- MC4 to anderson adapter (for connecting solar panels)
- 30 watt USB adapters (2 with two USB, and 2 with 1 USB, and 1 usbc)
- (1) 20A AC charger (to charge the Titan from an AC outlet)
- (1) User Manual
- branch connectors to wire panels
- Standard 25 feet of solar panel wire with a choice to upgrade to longer wires (50 feet, 75 feet or 100 feet) if needed.
Does the Titan Solar Generator have Bluetooth or Wi-Fi?
Our current Titan Solar Generator does not have Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, however, our Titan 2.0 will have Bluetooth. We don’t have a specific release date or price for this newer model. information will be released before pre-sale.
How loud is the Titan Solar Generator?
If you have a load of around 900 watts (less when it is hot), the cooling fans will turn on after a few minutes, and cycle on and off. The fans are about 50 decibels at 5′, and 60 decibels at 6 inches when they are on.
Why did my Titan Solar Generator battery arrive at 0%
Our Titan Solar Generator batteries are shipped at about 50% capacity. This is actually much safer for shipping than 100% full, and also better for the battery. However, the Titan Solar Generator battery meter needs to be calibrated before it will read a correct state of charge. We intentionally set the capacity to 0% so people will know to charge their battery when it first arrives (in case they did not read the manual). When the battery is charged, the % will gradually increase, up to about 50 or 60%. At that point the battery is actually 100% full, and the battery meter will automatically calibrate to 100%.
NOTE: When charging the batteries for the first time, it’s important to read the Voltage reading. This will show the accurate state of charge before the meter is calibrated. After the meter is calibrated, it will remain accurate unless the battery configuration changes, or if the system is charged without the Titan being turned on.
What if I need more than 20A 12V output?
The Titan Solar Generator is equipped with a 20A step down converter to convert the 24V battery to a regulated 13.8V (typical fully charged car battery voltage). If you need more than 20A, we suggest that you purchase a larger step down converter. You can typically find a 100A 24V to 13.8V step down converter for around 100-150 on Ebay, Amazon, or other online stores. You can use our external battery connection wire to connect the step down to the AC charging port (for the 24V input to the step down). You simply connect the input of the step down converter to the Anderson plug and plug it into one of the AC charging ports. The output of the step down converter should be wired into a fuse, fuse block, or breaker, and then to your application.
What will the Titan Solar Generator run?
SPECS: Output Voltage: 120V AC (pure sine wave) Continuous Power output: 3,000 Watts (1,500 watts with one battery) Peak Power output: 6,000 watts
This means it will run nearly any household appliance including a refrigerator, freezer, microwave, cooktop stove, lights, computer, etc. However, how long and how many appliances it will run will be determined by how many solar panels and batteries you add to your system. To calculate the size of system you need for your power consumption, you can use our off-grid solar calculator here: https://pointzeroenergy.com/learn/off-grid-size-calculator/
When using the off-grid calculator, enter all appliances that will be powered (or enter in total watt hours per day) and then click “Calculate”. This will give you a resulting minimum battery and solar panel size.
Example#1 Minimum battery size: 1600 watt hours Minimum solar: 354 watts
This means that one battery is large enough with 2000 watt hours, and 500 watts of solar is enough. So the 500 kit would be perfect for this.
Example #2 Minimum battery size: 3763 watt hours Minimum solar: 792 watts
In this example, we will need two batteries. A 1000 kit with an extra battery would work great, or a 1500 kit (which comes with two batteries) would also work well. You would also have extra solar (it never hurts to have more).
Limitations: The Titan Solar Generator does not provide 240V so it won’t run any 240V appliance, including 240V well pumps.
Free shipping on all orders to the Lower 48 !
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- We’re a family owned business! My wife and I run Wild Oak Trail, and when our son and daughter are old enough, they will probably take your calls too.
- We are passionate about the outdoors, going on adventures, emergency preparedness, off the grid living and so much more. It’s all inspiring! We’d love to hear what you’ve got planned for our products!
- We stand behind what we sell. If you’re not happy, we’ll make it right.
What is net metering and how does it work?
Net metering is an electric billing tool that uses the electric grid to “store” excess energy produced by your solar panel system. Under net metering, the energy produced by your solar panels that you don’t use is credited back to you. On a cloudy or rainy day when your panels aren’t producing enough energy, the utility grid will feed your home energy, and count that energy against the credits you’ve banked over time. As a solar customer, you will only be billed for your “net” energy usage. Also known as net energy metering or NEM, net metering is the solar industry’s foundational policy.
How does net metering work?
Say you’ve installed a solar panel system and you live in an area with a net metering program. When your photovoltaic system produces more electricity than you’re using at any point during the day, the electricity is sent back to the grid, running your electric meter in reverse. When your energy use is higher than your solar panel production, either at night or on cloudy days, you’ll pull electricity back from the grid, running your meter forwards. At the end of the month or year, you’ll be billed the net amount of what you send to the grid and what you pull from the grid: hence “net metering”.
With a correctly sized solar energy system, you can produce enough electricity to match your home’s electricity use for the entire year. However, the amount of electricity your solar panels produce will vary throughout the year: more in sunnier summer months, and less when the sun is lower in the sky and sets earlier in the winter. Net metering helps you to account for these seasonal differences in solar production by crediting you for the excess electricity your panels produce so that you can use it at a later date.
FICTION. With net metering, you can receive utility bill credits for the excess generation that your solar panels produce. However, in most cases, you won’t receive a cash payment from your utility for your excess solar electricity. If you do generate more electricity than you use in a year, electric utility companies in some states will let you carry credits over into future years, while others will reduce your credits. With that in mind, it’s important that your system size is large enough to offset as close to 100 percent of your electricity needs as possible, but not to produce significantly more than you use.
Why does net metering exist?
Net metering policies were designed for two primary purposes: first, to encourage the greater adoption of renewable energy throughout the country; and second, because utilities–and the electricity grid as a whole–can benefit from the influx of low- to no-cost solar energy onto the grid. Solar energy can help balance the cost of purchasing electricity from other resources, especially during summer months when electricity is often the most expensive on the hottest–and sunniest!–days of the year.
How do electricity bills work with net metering?
In general, most homes will produce excess electricity in the summer months and will use more electricity from the grid in the winter. Because these variations in production are fairly predictable, your utility won’t send you a monthly check when you produce more than you need. Instead, you will build up extra credits during the summer months so that you can draw from them at night and during the winter months when you need them. With the right design, your system can generate enough power to match your total electricity use for a year, even if you produce much more than you need in some months and much less in others.
When your solar power system generates more electricity than you use over the course of a month, you will receive a credit based on the net number of kilowatt-hours you gave back to the grid. If you produce less electricity than you use in a given month, you must buy electricity from your utility to make up the difference. In these instances, you would pay for the electricity you use, minus any excess electricity your solar panels generated.
Other types of net metering
While traditional net metering is the most popular way to receive credits back from solar energy generated, there are other ways depending on where you live and what your state and utility provider have available.
Buy all/sell all
As opposed to other models of metering, the buy all/sell all model works by allowing users to sell 100% of the energy generated by their panels to the utility company. In return, they get 100% of their home’s energy from their utility at the retail rate. Two separate meters are required for this type of net metering and the user will pay the difference between the amount generated and amount consumed. With buy all/sell all net metering, you don’t directly consume any of the energy generated by your solar panels.
In the past, net billing has been most common in large commercial solar installations, but it’s becoming more and more popular for home installations as the total number of distributed solar energy systems increases. Net billing is similar to net metering in that it allows you to essentially use the grid as storage for the excess electricity generated by your solar system.
Under net metering, your credits are typically a one-to-one exchange: a kilowatt-hour produced by your solar panels is worth the same amount as a kilowatt-hour produced by the grid. However, with net billing, your compensation rate is typically lower than what you pay for electricity. Instead of “banking” the credits earned from the excess energy generated by your solar panels, you’ll “sell” that energy back to your utility, typically at the wholesale rate instead of the retail rate.
In essence, net metering is like having the grid serve as a giant solar battery. But, if you install an off-grid solar panel system, you don’t receive the benefits of net metering, as you won’t be able to rely on the grid as a massive battery: you’ll need your own batteries to keep the lights on once the sun goes down. For nearly all residential (and commercial) applications, staying connected to the grid is your best bet.
Use net metering to save by going solar
Net metering is the best solar policy because it allows you to store every unit of energy you produce with solar to be used at a later date from the grid. In fact, thanks to net metering, you can save tens of thousands of dollars over the lifetime of their solar panel system by offsetting your need for electricity from the grid.
While net metering is not the only way that utilities compensate homeowners for going solar, it’s by far the most common and effective solar policy at the moment. Check out this article to learn if your state offers net metering or another type of solar compensation program, and be sure to visit the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency (DSIRE®), which tracks net metering and other solar incentives and rebates.
To see how much you can save with solar, check out the EnergySage Solar Calculator, or register for a free account on EnergySage to see custom solar quotes from local installers today.
FAQs about net metering
Here are some key questions residential customers often have about net metering:
Do net metering credits expire?
While it can depend on where you live, in most states, your net metering credits will roll over from month-to-month and sometimes year-to-year, meaning you won’t have to use all of your credits in one billing period. So, since your solar energy system produces high amounts of energy in the summer, you can build up credits to use in winter billing cycles, when your generation is lower.
What is virtual net metering?
Many states have virtual net metering, or VNEM, policies, which allow you to benefit from net metering even if you don’t have solar installed on-site at your home. In most cases, you participate in virtual net metering by subscribing to a local community solar farm. Under virtual net metering, the electricity generated by the solar farm will be fed into the grid and the net metering credits will be shared among all subscribers. The energy produced by your share of the farm is sold to you at a discount, reducing your annual electricity costs by 5-15%. Community solar is a great option if you’re unable to install a rooftop solar system – check out the EnergySage Community Solar Marketplace to explore projects near you.
What is NEM 3.0?
In December 2022, the California Public Utilities Commission (CPUC), the regulatory agency in charge of private utility companies in California, approved California’s new net metering policy, NEM 3.0. NEM 3.0 goes into effect on April 14, 2023 and significantly reduces the rate at which utility customers with solar energy systems are compensated for the excess electricity they send to the grid. Importantly, as long as you submit a complete interconnection application for your solar installation by April 13, you’ll be grandfathered into NEM 2.0, allowing you to save substantially more money over the lifetime of your solar energy system.
Does net metering only apply to solar?
Not necessarily – while solar is by far the most common, depending on the net metering rules in your state, you may be able to net meter with other types of distributed generation systems like wind turbines.
Want to start generating your own electricity using clean energy? EnergySage is the nation’s online solar marketplace: when you sign up for a free account, we connect you with solar companies in your area, who compete for your business with custom solar quotes tailored to fit your needs. Over 10 million people come to EnergySage each year to learn about, shop for and invest in solar. Sign up today to see how much solar can save you.
We developed our one-of-a-kind marketplace with funding from the U.S. Department of Energy to make clean home energy solutions affordable and accessible to all.
Solar Panels For Goal Zero Power Stations/Solar Generators
I live full-time in an RV and travel the country. My nights are usually spent out in the boondocks, nowhere close to the power grid.
I need electricity though since I work online and love binge-watching shows on the TV in my camper, no matter where I am.
We had to decide if we wanted a loud generator or solar panels. We chose solar.
When my wife and I wanted to get into solar, we decided to purchase a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 (click to view current model on Amazon) for our RV.
We’ve had it for over a year now, and so far it’s doing a great job and is how we get power in our travel trailer to charge our 12V RV batteries, watch TV, charge our laptops, cameras, phones, and other devices.
We plug the travel trailer directly into the Yeti with a 15A to 30A adapter (click to view on Amazon).
Since it’s a so-called “solar generator” that can’t generate power on its own in any way, we also had to buy some solar panels to go with it, and we looked for high-quality, efficient alternatives to the Boulder panels.
After seeing a deal online, we purchased two Renogy 100W foldable suitcases (click to view on Amazon) and two Renogy 100W (click to view on Amazon) that we’ve installed on top of our RV.
When looking for solar panels for the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium power stations, it’s easy to get confused about which solar panels are compatible and why so that’s what we’re clearing up today.
Let’s take a look at some great solar panels that are compatible with the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium power stations, and then we’ll talk about what makes them compatible and which ones are the best for what scenario.
Please be aware that while I am using 3rd party solar panels with my Yeti, you should consult with Goal Zero before you connect anything to make sure that it’s compatible. I don’t work for Goal Zero, and am not responsible for any damage.
Best Solar Panels to Charge Goal Zero Yeti Lithium
Last update on 2023-06-29 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
(click links to view products on Amazon)
The Additional Adapter You Need
To use the solar panels above that has a checkmark by the “Requires Additional Adapter”, you need to use this adapter (click to view on Amazon) if you want to use the Anderson Power Pole input, or this adapter (click to view on Amazon) if you want to use the 8mm input.
Since the 8mm input max out at 10A (120W) input, you should use the Anderson input if your Yeti has one.
Note that the only Yeti power stations with the Anderson input are Yeti 1000, 1000X, 1250, 1400, 1500X, 3000, 3000X, and 6000X. All models have at least one 8mm input.
Although the latest Yeti 1000X. 3000X, and 6000X have a total of three input ports, only one can be used at once.
The port receiving the highest voltage will be the one that’s activated. Therefore, you can not use the wall charger and solar panels at the same time.
What Makes a Solar Panel Compatible with Goal Zero Yeti Lithium
On the older Yeti Lithium (400, 1000, 1400, 3000) and the newer smaller Yeti X (200X, 500X) there is a sticker that says not to go over 22V input.
On the newer larger Yetis (1000X, 1500X, 3000X, 6000X) the sticker says to keep it below 50V.
Well, what voltage is that talking about? There has been some confusion online as to what the 22V/50V limit means and what number in the spec sheet of a solar panel is relevant.
I have even seen mixed answers by Goal Zero themselves on their website and manual.
The latest information I have is that this 22V/50V limit is talking about the VMP of a solar panel.
Vmp is the maximum operating voltage, and can often be found in the specs on a solar panel product page. It’s the voltage when the power output is at its highest.
If you plan on putting your panels on an RV, van, or bus roof, the HQST and Renogy are great choices.
However, if you want to be able to park in the shade and move your panels around, get a portable suitcase-style panel with a kickstand.
Having portable panels quickly becomes a daily chore, but it lets you park in the shade in the summer and keep your camper cooler.
Goal Zero Yeti Non-lithium
If you have a non-lithium Yeti station, the max input voltage rating is different and depends on what model you own or purchase.
Goal Zero Yeti 150 – Has one 8mm port that supports 14-29V, up to 5A (60W max).
Goal Zero Yeti 400 – Has one 8mm port, supporting 14-29V up to 10A (120W max)
Goal Zero Yeti 1250 – Has one power pole charging port, supporting 16-48V, up to 20A (240W max), and two 8mm, supporting 16-48V, up to 10A each. Supports a total of 240W solar input.
Since the non-lithium Yetis have higher maximum voltages, you can use a panel like the Renogy 160W and Renogy 175W Flexible with a MC4 to 8mm cable adapter.
Connecting Two or Panels
When connecting two or more solar panels to a Goal Zero Yeti, the Vmp rating is as important as with just one panel.
If your Yeti can only handle 22V, you need to wire your panels in parallel. If you have one of the newer models that can take up to 50V, you can wire panels in series but you need to do the math to know that the total voltage will stay below 50V.
It’s also important that you understand that the more panels, the more amperage or voltage depending on how you wire them, so you need to use wire that’s thick enough for the amperage.
I recommend using this calculator (click on Solar Cable Gauge Calculator) Renogy has made where you can enter the Vmp and Imp your setup is rated at and how long of a cable you need.
Below the calculator, you can also find NEC’s ratings for the maximum current for different wire sizes.
A parallel connection
A connector like this (click here) will let you connect two panels in parallel. Plug each positive wire into the same connector.
Then you take both negative wires, plug those into the negative (black) male on the adapter that you’ll plug into the Goal Zero.
If you want to connect three panels, this is the adapter you’ll need.
If you want to connect four panels, this is the adapter you’ll need.
A series connection
Unlike a parallel connection, a series connection does add the voltages together, but the amps stay the same.
So if the 100W 12V panel has a VMP rating of 17.9V and outputs 5.5A, two panels wired in series will output 35.8V (17.92), but still 5.5A.
Because the charge controllers are sensitive to voltage, you need to add the voltages together to make sure the total is below 50V if you’ve made a series connection.
Frequently Asked Questions
Monocrystalline vs. Polycrystalline?
Monocrystalline costs more but is more efficient, both in terms of power output and space.
Polycrystalline are cheaper to make but have lower heat tolerance which makes them less efficient in high temperatures. They also take up more space.
Monocrystalline panels are often 18-22% efficient, while polycrystalline panels are usually 14-16% efficient.
Can I Use a Solar Panel with a Built-In Charge Controller with the Goal Zero Yeti?
No, since the Goal Zero Yeti power stations have at least one charge controller built-in, you shouldn’t go through another charge controller before the power reaches the Yeti.
You want panels to go straight into the Yeti.
How Fast Will a Solar Panel Charge Goal Zero Yeti?
There are different Yeti sizes, from 168w to 6000 watt-hours.
I have the Yeti 1000. With all of my panels (400W total) plugged into it on a sunny day, I see around 280Wh an hour. 1045/280=3.73, so it should take about 4 hours to charge my Yeti from 0 to 100% in perfect sunny conditions.
Take these numbers with a grain of salt though as several factors play into actual charging times. I’d say it’s closer to five hours usually.
So how fast your panels can charge your Yeti depends on how big the Yeti is, how many panels you have, and how the weather is.
How to Charge My Goal Zero Yeti Faster?
There are a couple of things you can do to charge your Yeti faster with solar panels. One of them is to purchase the MPPT charge controller (click to view on Amazon) that increases the charging efficiency.
This charge controller is compatible with the Yeti 1000, 1000X, 1400, 1500X, 3000X, and 6000W.
The MPPT charge controller will also increase the amount of solar you can connect in total to the Yeti, by 360W.
If your Yeti has a USB C PD input/output, you could also charge it faster with a USB C PD charger.
Is There A Solar Panel That Will Recharge Both My 12V RV Batteries And Power Station?
I have written a post over on the Solar Addict about a panel that does this, click here to view it.
Let me know in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below if you have anything to add or any questions that haven’t been answered.
Jesse has always had an interest in camping, technology, and the outdoors. Who knew that growing up in a small town in Sweden with endless forests and lakes would do that to you?
116 thoughts on “Which Solar Panels Are Compatible with Goal Zero Yeti 2023?”
Hi, I am trying to follow your set up for the Renogy 100W 12V Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Panel Suitcase with a Yeti 1000 lithium battery, but when I look at the panels from your Amazon link, there is not enough technical information listed about the panel for me to know if it has the same specs you refer to in your article. I would like to follow your set up because I currently live in a California wildfire area where my electricity could be shut off and I’d like to have enough back-up power to keep a few things going. I will also be buying an RV in the next year or so and your set up sounds like the right thing to have. But I have a hard time understanding the amps, watts, and voltages information. Your web site is a great find for me. Thanks, Reply
Hello Nancy, sorry for the late answer to your comment. Regarding the panels, if the info isn’t available on Amazon I recommend checking Renogy’s website. The specific foldable panel I use and the specs about it can be found here: https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase-w-o-controller/ That sounds awesome, I am excited for you! I do like and recommend my setup, especially for beginners that want a plug-and-play system. I plug my Yeti 1000 directly into my trailer and run everything except the A/C. It charges quickly during the day with my solar panels and is easy to use. Thank you for your comment! Reply
Jesse, Thank you very, very much for the super helpful article. I purchased a Yeti 1000 for off-grid camping and to help out at home when we have power outages. You have a great way of explaining information in an easy to understand way. I really appreciate it. Trish Reply
Hello Trish, Thank you for your comment and kind words. That’s awesome. I am still happy with mine and bet you will be too! Reply
Jesse, I see you review the Nomad 100 on another link. Would you go with the Renogy 100 (or another above) OR a Nomad 100? I’ll be using with with a Goal Zero Yeti 1000. Thank you! Trish
Hello Trish, Honestly, I would go with the Boulder 100 for its build, handle, stand, bag and straightforward connectivity without additional adapters. Sure, it’s not the cheapest panel out there, but after using a Renogy suitcase for a couple of months and comparing it to the Boulder 100, I think the Boulder 100 is worth its price. EDIT: I confused the names, changed my answer from Nomad 100 to Boulder 100.
Hi, Thank you so much for this helpful article. To be sure that I understand it correctly, a solar panel of 24V is not compatible with the Goal Zero Yeti 1000? Reply
If I have 1200W of solar panels but they’re all 24V (max 50A), and I want them to charge the Yeti 1400 so I get a DC/DC 24v-12V converter that can handle up to 20A (max 100A), am I limiting my 1200W of solar panels to 240W (12V20A=240W)? Reply
Where can I find a good calculator to determine battery duration give multiple concurrent charge and draw scenarios? Reply
hi campingnerd, got a question, hoping you can answer. I just purchased a new 26ft Class A and I had 2 solar panels installed on the roof to recharge the batteries. I am wondering if there is a way to recharge my goal zeros with those solar panels as well, I have a 1000w and a 1400w. I assume I have to find where they are connected to the battery. wondering if you have had any experience with that? Reply
Hello Kevin, I can think of two ways to do it. This is most likely what the setup looks like right now: Solar panels. solar charge controller. batteries. Since the Yeti stations come with a solar charge controller built-in, you’ll have to create a connection directly between the solar panels and your Yetis. You don’t want to go through two solar charge controllers. If you can access the solar charge controller, you can get a pack of MC4 connectors. I’d then install a pair of those connectors on the wire between the solar charge controller and the solar panels, so you can create the connection that is already there while having the choice to get a direct connection to your panels. You could then use a MC4 to Anderson Powerpole adapter and plug the panels into one of your Yetis when they need a charge. You would have to make sure that your panels are compatible with the Yeti. Their Vmp rating can’t exceed 22 volts, and the panels must be wired in parallel, meaning that the positive ends from both panels meet, separate from negative wires. The second way you can do it is much more costly, but I believe the Yeti Car Link expansion module with a Female EC8 to Ring Terminal would allow you to charge the Yetis from your 12V batteries with a quick connection. This way, the panels would charge your batteries, and the battery would charge your Yetis. Someone else might have a better way to do it, but that’s what I can come up with for now. Reply
Okay, I promise, one last question…how is the Nomad 100 different/better than the Boulder 100 by YETI? Reply
I just realized I got the names confused above, I was talking about the Boulder, not the Nomad, sorry about that. To clarify, I would choose the Boulder 100 over the Renogy 100W suitcase. In terms of the Nomad: The Nomad 100 is more portable than the Boulder panels since it folds and stores easier. It’s also much lighter at 11 lbs vs. 26 lbs. The Boulder is more sturdy, has a stand built-in, and a great choice if you have space for it. So you either choose one that’s easy to pack (Nomad), or one that’s easy to handle and move when set up (Boulder). The Boulder is also easier to tilt thanks to its stand, which is very useful during the winter. EDIT: I wrote a post comparing the two that you can find by clicking here. Reply
I hooked up an Allpower 12v 100watt panel to the Goal Zero “Y” adapter and plug it into the Input terminal. The light above the Input plugin did not light up and zero watts were registering on the display screen. The battery is at 100 % full. My multimeter indicates I am getting amps through the wires. Any ideas? Reply
Hello Steve, It must be because the battery is already at 100%. Use one of the AC outlets for a minute, then plug in the solar panel again and see if it starts charging. Reply
Not sure if it’s just on my end but I clicked on the adapter for three panels and it didn’t work. Trying to decide on 2 100w or 3 100 w to power my goal zero 1000. Reply
Hello C, Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I have updated the link with a product that’s available. I recommend three if you have space for it, that would let you recharge the Yeti 1000 from 0-100% in about 5 hours versus 7.5 hours with two panels. But it depends on how much power you think you’re going to need. I have 100×4 connected to my Yeti but still wish I had more some days. That is because I use my coffeemaker twice a day, run my microwave, and charge two laptops for about 8 hours a day. Reply
Thanks for the fast reply. May I double check with you to see if I have everything right before I buy? I was going to do 2, but I think 3 is a better idea, like you said. (This is for my Goal Zero 1000.) I’ll be getting 3 Renology 12v 100w monochrystalline panels (compact design) – Signstek Y branch adapter cable – MPPT charging module – Windynation 12 gauge 12AWG 15 feet black and red extension cable (maybe I should go with 5 feet though, as it’s for my e-150 van.) – Linksolar double entry gland (for the mc4 ext) – INSTABOOST 10AWG cable I would plug the three panels in parallel, then plug into the red and black extension cable (and pass through roof) then connect to INSTABOOST, then connect to MPPT to the goal zero unit. Hopefully I got that right, getting anxious about putting it all together. I really appreciate your guide here AND your additional answers to all my questions. Reply
The problem I am seeing is that the Linksolar entry plate holes are only large enough for wire 2-6/6-12mm, and not MC4 connectors. So what you would have to do is get a pair of BougeRV Solar Panel wires with bare wire on one end instead of the Windynation extension cables. These come with a pair of MC4 connectors that you’ll install to the wire inside your van after pulling the wire through the entry plate and the roof. After you’ve pulled the BougeRV MC4 cables through the entry plate housing as shown in the video, you can install MC4 connectors on the bare wire end, and then connect those to the Instaboost MC4 to APP adapter. Make sure positive goes to positive. Installing MC4 connectors isn’t hard, I recommend following this step-by-step guide on Instructables.com. A solar crimping tool makes it easier. I also recommend buying longer wire than you think you need (unless you have measured exactly how much you need), and also get a wire stripper so you can shorten the cable when you know exactly how much you need, and strip the wire to install the MC4 connectors. The alternative to doing everything above would be to skip the Linksolar entry and cut a larger hole in the roof that fits MC4 connectors. Then use a lot of dicor to create a waterproof seal. Other than that, it sounds right! I’m sorry to add more anxiety to the install, I know the feeling! Reply
I have some leftover Dicor from the maxxfan so maybe I’ll just that route. Thank you! Also, went to buy the goal zero 1000 at Costco (sale price 1000) and it’s no longer for sale there. I must have missed it by a day. Do you know any other places selling it for less than the original 1200 price? I can’t believe I missed it by literally a day.
Ah, bummer! Unfortunately I don’t, but there are refurbished models available on eBay, sold by Goal Zero. I own a refurbished model and it works great. The downside with the refurbished ones is that you only get 6 months warranty instead of the full year you get with a new Yeti 1000.
Hi Jesse, I have a YETI 400 non lithium battery, I am looking to connect a Maxray 160w 12 v solar blanket. I am unsure about the connections. The blanket has a MPPT reg. with an USB connection. It also has Anderson connections. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Kevin. Reply
Hello Kevin, Looks like the Maxray solar panel uses Anderson Multi-pole connectors, so what you’re looking for is an Anderson SB to MC4 adapter (not the more common MC4 to Anderson Power Pole) with the correct polarity, so you can use the MC4 to 8mm adapter with your Yeti. If you can’t find an adapter like that, what I would do is cut the Anderson connectors coming from the solar panel off and install some MC4 connectors. But then you won’t be able to use the USB charge controller to charge other 12V batteries. You will need a pair of MC4 connectors, a crimping tool, wire strippers, and wire cutters to set it up. The most important part is making sure you install a male MC4 connector on the positive (red) wire coming from the solar panel, so the polarity will be correct when you connect it to the MC4 to 8mm adapter. Also, the Yeti 400 has a charge controller built-in, so you won’t need to use the charge controller that came with the panel. Let me know if you have any questions. Reply
Plugging two 100 watt renology into the yeti 1000: Just wondering which connector goes into each extension cable color, since both have female and male ends on them. On the connectors I have a male positive and I have a female negative. Which one goes to which color and is it the female or male on the extension cable? If that makes sense? Once I have that hooked up then I run the extension cable to the Anderson cable to the MPPT to the yeti correct? Thank you. Reply
Hello C, If you’re using the MC4 Y Branch, you’ll have a positive male MC4 connector and a negative MC4 female connector that needs to be connected to the extension cables. The positive MC4 connector from the MC4 Y Branch will go to the MC4 female connector on the red extension cord, which will have an MC4 male connector that will plug into the positive MC4 female connector on the MC4 to Anderson connector. Then you’ll use the second black extension cord and plug it in the only way possible. The MC4 to Anderson adapter is what is plugged into the Yeti, yes. Let me know if I didn’t understand your question correctly or if you have other questions. Reply
Hey! So I just called Goal Zero and spoke with one of their associates and asked them what the 22V input maximum mean (I was unsure due to the fact that some of the suggested panels seemed to have Voc of 22.5V). The rep at Goal Zero told me that the 22V is in reference to the Vmp, and NOT the Voc. I asked him about the Voc and said that you had reached out to them as well, and he told me that you might have been given the wrong answer. Worth double checking and updating your post if so – it does make sense that it looks at Vmp and not Voc (since Voc is the voltage that the panel has when it is not plugged in). Vmp is the maximum voltage that is present when it is in operation. Let me know if you end up finding the same. Thanks, Samson Reply
Hello Samson, Thank you for leaving a comment and letting me/us know. I’ve been confused by it too due to how the voltages work. Especially since their own Boulder 100 has a 22.5V VOC rating as you mention. I’ll be updating the post, it’s unfortunate that Goal Zero has a different answer each time the question is asked. Thanks again for taking the time to share the info. Jesse Reply
Hi, I have the most simplistic of questions and am embarrassed to have to ask. I have read this post and several other by you. Very informative and helpful but I still don’t understand what accessories I need. I recently purchased the Yeti 1000 generator and 2 Boulder panels as emergency power for our freezers. What do i need to combined the two and then connect to my generator? Is Anderson preferred over 8mm? I am also ordering the MPPT to enhance the efficiency. Ultimately, I need to run a ~25 foot line from the panels (on roof of garage) to my generator. So, how do I get the two in parallel and then the run to the generator? Do i get a 4-to-1 connector (may eventually want 2 more panels and may, when budget permits upgrade to the 3000 generator – i like the Wi-Fi and capacity) and then a 30-foot Anderson cable? One of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Combiner-Anderson-Connector/dp/B072KP53XK/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2V4JS7LQBDPM3 One of these: https://smile.amazon.com/POWER-EXPANSION-CABLE-ACCESSORY-PORTABLE/dp/B00HDKFQS6/ Reply
Hello Cord, If you have two Boulder 100 with 8mm outputs, the 8mm to Anderson 4X combiner cable is the correct cable to combine up to four panels. If you have a Boulder 200, you need the Anderson 4X combiner since the Boulder 200 has an Anderson PowerPole output. For an Anderson extension cable, you need to make sure it’s an Anderson PowerPole type, like the Goal Zero APP 15ft Extension cable. There are other types of Anderson cables, so make sure it’s the one that looks the same as the Goal Zero input. You can combine two of the Goal Zero extension cables to create a longer cable. The 8mm ports can only handle up to 120W, while the Anderson PowerPole can handle up to 360W, so in your case, the Anderson is the way to go. Let me know if you have any questions. Reply
We plan to connect 4 x 100 Watt panels to our Yeti 3000. We want to use the Yeti’s Anderson Power pole in order to use the faster built in charger. Which Renogy panels are waterproof? We get a lot of rain and we don’t want to have to rush out to move the protect or panels. We plan to use the Yet 3000 as an emergency backup for our freezers in case of power outages so we do need some portability to do setup …but once it it there we won’i be moving it much until the power comes back on. Unless of course it rains…hence our need for waterproofing We’re not wedded to Renogy …but Yeti told us that their panels cannot handle any extended downpour or being left out overnight. Reply
Hello CK, Most solid panels are waterproof, or at least water-resistant enough to withstand rain. For a portable panel with a built-in stand, the Renogy 100W Suitcase panel is a good choice. I own two of these and leave them out in rain- and snowstorms without issues. Strong winds can cause them to fall over but I usually put rocks on the stands to prevent that. I also have two Renogy 100W on top of my camper that have been through it all and are working just fine. You could either lean them on something or put them straight on the ground. The junction box is IP65 rated which means that it’s protected against water from any direction but shouldn’t be totally submerged. To connect the four panels, you’ll use an MC4 Y Branch (1 to 4). Then I recommend using Windynation MC4 extension cables to the MC4 to Anderson adapter which you’ll plug into your Yeti 3000. Let me know if you have any questions. Jesse Reply
Hi Jesse, I’ve purchased the new Yeti 500X which has is MPPT from factory. I’m panning to use the 2 x 160W flexible panels (we dont have 100W renogy flexible panels in the EU and I’m running a roof top tent) to charge the yeti. How do you recommend connecting it. In parallel or series and why. (its my first time getting my hands wet with electrics). Reply
Hello Sanu, With Goal Zero Yeti power stations you only have one option and that is to use a parallel connection. That’s when you connect the positives together separately from the negatives with an MC4 Y branch. A parallel connection will double the amperage, but keep the voltage the same. A series connection doesn’t double the amperage, but the voltage. The reason this is the only option is because of the solar charge controller inside of the Yeti which has a 22V input limit. One of those 160W panels outputs about 19V under load, so a series connection would put it way above what the charge controller can handle (19V2=38V). Therefore, a parallel connection is the only way to go. Also, your Yeti 500X has a 10A (120W) input limit, so connecting two 160W panels would be a bit overkill. I wouldn’t connect more than 200W of panels for that reason, hopefully you can find some 100W panels. Let me know if you have any questions. Jesse Reply
My husband and I are thinking of purchasing a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 for our camper van. We would like to go solar and want to mount the panels to the roof of our van. I noticed there are several Renogy 100 W solar panel models available. Do you have a preference? Can we use two 160 W Renogy solar panels with this power station? Thanks Michelle Reply
Hello Michelle, I use and recommend these: Renogy 100W solar panels. If you pick a different panel, make sure it is a 12V monocrystalline panel with MC4 connectors. According to Goal Zero, you can use the Renogy 160W panels. To use two you need to wire them in parallel with an MC4 Y branch, then connect the branch to the MC4 to Anderson PowerPole adapter. You can also add a WindyNation MC4 extension cable between the MC4 Y branch and the Anderson adapter. Let me know if you have any questions. Jesse Reply
Hi Jesse, Great article and resource site! I’m looking to use this solar panel to charge my Yeti 1400: https://www.rhinoadventuregear.com/collections/new-products/products/rhino-adventure-gear-solarhawk-roof-top-tent-solar-panel-for-ikamper-skycamp The website says this Merlin Solar panel has a Voltage @ Pmax of 22.88 V I’m making a 10 AWG cable with a SB50 to connect to the solar panel and a normal Anderson Power Pole connector on the other end to connect to the Power Pole input on the Yeti 1400. I have a Yeti Link module installed and that’s connected to the car’s starter battery. So the Yeti will charge while the car is running. The car and yeti will be potentially getting a charge from the solar panel as well while driving. And when camping and the car off the yeti and starter will still be getting a charge from the solar panel. At least that’s the plan. Question: Is it ok to connect the panel to the Yeti 1400 with the Yeti having a max input of 22 V and the solar panel having a Pmax of 22.88 V? Reply
Hello Ben, nice setup! Unfortunately, that solar panel is not compatible with the Goal Zero Yeti power stations. The voltage is a bit too high and the Yeti wouldn’t accept any input from it. I suggest using Renogy 100W flexible panels. Jesse Reply
Hi Jesse, awesome Homepage, helped so much already. Thanks a lot for all your afford! I have the Goal Zero 1400 and was thinking of getting the 160W Renogy Panel, would you recommend that? It sounded like the 100W ones are more compatible. Thanks Pia Reply
Hello Pia, thank you! So there have been some mixed messages from Goal Zero on whether the Renogy 160W panel is supported or not. The latest info I can tell you is that it is compatible due to the VMP rating being below 22 volts. I do recommend the 160W panel over the 100W if you have space for it since it will charge the Yeti much faster. Let me know if you have any other questions. Jesse Reply
Thanks for your quick answer! So I tried to order it (of corse with your link) but sadly it is not available in Germany. I found two which I think could work too. Here are the links, its in German but probably you understand the technical information still better than me :)) https://www.wattgeizer.com/solarmodul-150w-12v-monokristallin?c=36 https://solarenergy-shop.ch/de/solarpanel-12-volt/485-solarpanel-160-watt-12v-monokristallin.html If you could check and make an affiliated link out of it so I can support you? But don’t worry at all if it is too much of a hassle, all your information you provide here is so helpful already. Reply
Hello Pia, No worries! Based on the ratings, the 150W panel should work. I’m not sure about the second panel because it has a voltage of 23.7V, so I would go with the first one you linked. Let me know if you have any issues when connecting the panel or other questions. Jesse Reply
Wow this is really informative helpful! Thanks for sharing your knowledge putting everything I needed to know right here! Got a GZ 400 Lithium looking for 3rd party solar panels (foldable ~100W) for camping, but didn’t know what to look for initially. Cheers! Reply
Hi Jesse, Thanks so much for all this information! I can’t find nearly this much detail on any of the product website, so I am very grateful. I have a Yeti 1400 power station, which says it can handle up to 360watts, and I have three Renology solar panels, two 100w and one 160w. I read the fine print and it looks like the yeti wants no more than 120w per input plug, it has 1 AAP input plug and 2 8mm input plugs. Can I (parallel) connect the solar panels to each other and then to one of the input plug or do I have to attach each panel to its own input plug and not exceed 120w per input (and return the 160w panel that I purchased). I’ve never seen a 120w solar panel, which seems it would be the only way to actually get 360w of solar panels attached if they each have to go to their own input plug. Thank you! Reply
Hello Gillian, Here is what I would do. I would take the two 100W panels and connect them in parallel with an MC4 Y branch, then use the MC4 to Anderson adapter to connect it to the APP port on the Yeti. Note that you might have to rearrange the orientation of the Anderson connectors on the adapter, which is easy to do without any tools. Then I would take the 160W panel and connect it to one of the 8mm ports with the MC4 to 8mm adapter. Even though it can only input 120W to the Yeti, the 160W panel is safe to use and the Yeti will regulate the wattage down to 120W. I doubt the 160W will generate even 120 watts since they usually sit around 100-115W, but there is nothing to worry about even if it does. Let me know if you have any questions, hope I didn’t make it more confusing. Jesse Reply
Hi Jesse, Thanks so much, that’s super helpful. So even though it says the Yeti can only take up to 120 per port, you think I should attach both 100w panels to each other and then to the AAP port? Is there a benefit to that versus attaching each 100w panel to a different port? Thank you, Gillian Reply
Hello Gillian, The 8mm can only handle up to 120W input, but the Anderson port can do up to 360W (30A). There is no benefit except for the fact that you don’t have to use three adapters and ports. Jesse Reply
Hi Jesse, That’s great to know, thank you! Is it possible to also link the 160w panel to the 100w panels and into the Anderson port or are they not compatible?
You could do that with an Anderson to Anderson combiner, but if you mix a 100W panel with a 160W panel in parallel, I believe it is going to go by the lowest voltage rating, which comes from the 100W panel. That means that you would lose some of the voltage the 160W panel outputs. Therefore, I would connect the 100W panels in parallel, but the 160W on its own. It is hard to say what the voltage loss would be exactly without testing it myself but I would guess around 10-15%. Jesse
Jesse, I am new to solar and found your post very helpful. I purchased the GZ Yeti 1000 Lithium and planed to purchase 2 of the Boulder 200 solar panels (2). However, I am looking at the great solar panel choices you suggested as well My question is whether or not there is a way to store the solar power in a bank of some type to use to power the generator more on demand. I have a full size refrigerator, full size freezer, sump pump and C-PAP to power. Also have the GZ Yeti 150. General use is for emergency back up should that need arise. Will the Yeti Tank Expansion battery work with the 1000? Have also considered the Yeti 200 or 400 for additional help with emergency needs. The sump pump is the real issue in the end. Not sure how much power it will need. Goal Zero website is practically useless. Thank you for any help you can provide. Really appreciate the detail you put into the post, as well as, the answers to all previous questions above. Take care, AJ Reply
Hello AJ, Yes, the Yeti Expansion batteries work with the Yeti 1000, as long as you have the Yeti Link expansion module. One expansion battery will add another 1.2kWh (which will more than double your Yeti 1000 total battery capacity). You might want to check how many watts your fridge, freezer, and pump use before you invest in more batteries though. Since some large refrigerators and freezers might struggle with a 1500W inverter. Maybe you’ve already tried to power your fridge/freezer and know the wattage. I’d like to be sure that a single Yeti 1000 will power the things you need to be able to use before I recommend buying more batteries. Let me know if you have any questions or how I can help further. Jesse Reply
Thank you that is very helpful. We do need to check the watts on fridge, freezer and pump. Still trying to understand all the goal zero/relates solar info right now. Regarding your RV battery ….do you use that as a backup solar storage source as a less expensive alternative to the Goal Zero battery backup item? If so, would you please explain how that works and what parts I would need. The Goal Zero back up battery unit requires so many extra expensive parts. Thank you again. You have been patient and helpful. AJ Reply
I replied earlier, then my internet connection went down due to latest Microsoft update. Thank you for so quickly answering my questions. If you would indulge me one additional question. You mentioned that you also charge an RV battery. I believe using the parallel type connection to solar panel? Anyway, are you using that RV battery in place of a Goal Zero type expansion battery. I want to save money and if this is what you are making work I would appreciate all the particulars. You are a great resource. I appreciate being able to ask questions of a real person with real product experience. Take care AJ Reply
Jesse, I did a quick check of my freezer and refrig watts…. Refig is: 60 HZ/ 1 Phase / 115V Full Load AMP is 6.5 Freezer states: AMPS: 5/0 A Volts: 115 VAC 60 HZ Performance Range (last 1/3 of cycle) 115-140 I am not finding Watts noted on any literature or tags on these appliances. Thank you, AJ Reply
Hello AJ, Ok, based on those numbers the Yeti should be able to power both at the same time. Depending on how much they turn on, the battery won’t last very long though and would have to be recharged with solar during the day. You might also have to turn on and off the fridge/freezer at night if the Yeti battery is low. If the fridge and freezer use around 1300 watts at most when cooling, and the battery in the Yeti is 1045Wh, you can see how that won’t last long. Buying 400W of solar panels will definitely help with that though. I do keep my RV batteries charged up, but only to run things in my camper like the lights, fans, furnace, etc. I don’t have an extra inverter to power 120V devices off of the trailer batteries. To be honest, I would buy another Yeti or a smaller power station to run smaller devices like the CPAP. You could almost get another Yeti 1000 for the price of the Yeti Link and one expansion battery. The expansion batteries are really expensive for what they are since they’re not even lithium batteries. What I would do if I were you is that I would try to run the fridge/freezer and other devices off of the Yeti for a day to get an understanding of how much power they use, how many days they would be able to last, and go from there. Maybe the Yeti 1000 will last a couple of days as long as you have 2-400W solar panels recharging it? When it’s time to spend more money, I recommend prioritizing more battery capacity over solar panels though, so you can store more electricity. Whether it’s with another power station or a different type of setup (batteriesinvertersolar charge controllersolar panels). Hope I am not making it confusing, trying to think of different ways to do it all. Let me know if you have any questions. Jesse Reply
Thank you that is very helpful and not confusing at all. We have a Yeti 150 for CPAP/phones, etc. Yes, we planned to charge the yetis during the day and plug in the appliances overnight. The frig and freezer are quite a distance from each other, so plan is to alternate every other day between them. Without planning and minimal opening/closing, they should each have about 24-48 hours before they are desperate to be hooked up to a yeti. I think you are also right on my being better spent toward an expansion battery pack and/or additional yet instead of extra solar panels. I thought the GZ battery expansion packs they were overly expensive, but after looking at lithium battery that start at 800, maybe GZ is a bargain. Currently, we’re looking at the yeti 1500 instead. The expansion battery will have to wait until next year. Hopefully, the world will not completely fall apart before then! I would love to consider the cheaper 12 V lead acid battery options, but the details to attach to solar differently then when attaching to the yeti has my head swimming. I used to enjoy understanding and using all the complicated features and options. As I grow older, quick and simple with fewer parts is looking much more interesting. haha Again, you are an exceptional source of helpful and usable info. Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. Be safe on your travels. Reply
Hello AJ, Yeah, the new Yeti 1500X is definitely not a bad choice if it can deliver on its promises. I have yet to test one myself, but as you say, lithium batteries cost a lot of money, and while people like to complain about Goal Zero’s pricing, it’s not that easy to make a similar one yourself with all of its features. It takes a lot of time and knowledge. Hopefully Goal Zero will release a lithium expansion pack soon too. Thanks, AJ, let me know if you have any questions in the future. Jesse Reply
Thank you Jesse. Sorry for delay in my reply. Elderly parents were in need of my attention. I purchased the 1500X and have held off on the battery expansion tank for now. Will revisit in a month or so. Your expertise and experience with these GZ models is priceless. Particularly for newbies trying to get the technology and connections down pat. Take care and happy travels to you, AJ Reply
Hi Jesse, first THANK YOU for sharing such great information for all of us! Question about running a 200w single panel (under 22v) to a yeti 1000 lithium? Is that safe/ok to do? This is the one I was looking to buy: Newpowa 200 Watts Solar Panel Monocrystalline High efficiency Thanks in advance! Reply
Hello Nick, Yes, that’s a great panel that should work with the Yeti 1000 without issues. Just make sure you plug it into the Anderson PowerPole and not the 8mm port. Jesse Reply
Thanks Jesse! So I have a unit that has mppt charger in the upper right side of the unit so the directive you gave me to use the Anderson Powerpole is the black/red adapter receptacle correct? Also, with the mppt and the solar panel I mentioned I wanted to use above, does that change you recommendation at all? Thanks! Reply