Can a Solar Generator Power a Well Pump. 220 solar generator * KYOKUSHO.COM

The Best Solar Generators of 2023, Tested and Reviewed

Whether you are outfitting your home in case of an extended power outage or looking for a steady supply of off-grid power for your overlanding setup, it’s never been a better time to purchase a solar generator. But sifting through all the available options on the market—power stations that are lunchbox-sized to luggage-sized, solar panels that can pack in a backpack to multiple eight-foot long panels you chain together—can take a lot of time and effort. To help you choose the best solar generator for your purpose, we tested some of the most powerful models from Anker, Jackery, Goal Zero, and BioLite side by side to see how they stacked up.

Best Overall:Jackery Solar Generator 1000 Pro
Best Value:Anker 555 Solar Generator
Most Portable:BioLite BaseCharge 1500 Solar Panel 100
Most Customizable:Goal Zero Yeti 1500X Boulder 200 Briefcase Solar Generator
Best for RVs:Anker Solar Generator 767

How I Tested the Best Solar Generators

There are two components to a solar generator—a solar panel and a power station. To understand the performance of the overall package, I looked at each component and then also assessed how they worked in tandem.

Solar Panels were tested in tandem (to ensure similar conditions) under clear skies. Testing was conducted in late fall, when the angle of the sun is less ideal than it would be at the peak of summer, affecting the potential of each panel to reach its claimed maximum output. Solar panels were tested using power stations of the same brand, but where possible, I also used different panels with different power stations to see if that affected the results.
Power stations were evaluated on a number of criteria. After fully charging all the power stations, I left them in a climate-controlled room for three days and then outside for twenty-four hours in near-freezing temperatures—none of the power stations registered any loss of power during this test. Next, I plugged various appliances into all of the power stations to see how they handled the volume: a dehumidifier, a sunlamp, two laptops, one of the best power banks for camping, a pair of headphones, another power station, etc. Using these setups, I ran each power station down to half its estimated output. Finally, I considered how compatible each power station was with other solar panels, as well as additional features, such as Bluetooth-compatible apps, display panels, wireless charging, USB-C input ports, and more.

Solar Panels Tested

I tested six solar panels rated for both 100W and 200W capacity from Goal Zero, Anker, Jackery, and BioLite.

I checked that all the solar panels were pointed in the same direction and at the same angle when testing their measured output against their claimed output.

Model	Weight	Size (unfolded)	Output Ports	Warranty	Claimed output	Measured output
Jackery SolarSaga 200W Solar Panel	18 lbs	540 x 2320 x 25 mm	DC	1.5 years	200W	184W
Goal Zero Boulder 200W	42 lbs	40 x 53.5 x 1.75 inches	High Power Port (HPP)	2 years	200W	145W
Anker 531 Solar Panel	20 lbs	23.75 x 83.75 x.75 inches	XT-60	2 years	200W	158W
Goal Zero Boulder 100W	20 lbs	40 x 26.75 x 1.75 inches	High Power Port (HPP)	2 years	100W	73W
Anker 625 Solar Panel	11 lbs	57 x 20.75 x 1.75 inches	XT-60	2 years	100W	94W
BioLite Solar Panel 100	10 lbs	20 x 57.5 x 1 inches	High Power Port (HPP)	1 year	100W	52W

Power Stations Tested

The power stations I tested ranged in size from 1,002Wh to 2,048Wh, and were capable of either 110 volts or 120 volts (the latter is what you’ll need to run most major appliances).

All of the power stations were capable of holding a charge for extended periods of time, losing no power in either the three-day indoors test or the 24-hour outdoors test in subfreezing and near freezing temperatures.

Model	Weight	Wh	Input ports	Input Max for Solar	Max voltage for the AC outlet	App?	Warranty
Goal Zero Yeti 1500X	45.5 lbs	1,516	USB-C, 8mm, high power port (HPP)	600W	120V	Yes	2 years
Jackery Explorer 1000 Pro	25.5 lbs	1,002	AC and DC	800W	120V	No	3 years
Anker 767	XX	2,048	AC and XT60	1000W	120V	Yes	5 years
Anker 555	29.8 lbs	1,024	DC and USB-C	200W	110V	No	5 years
BioLite BaseCharge 1500	26.5	1,521	USB-C, high power port (HPP)	400W	110V	No	2 years

Best Overall: Jackery Solar Generator 1000 Pro (Explorer 1000 Pro Solar Saga 200W)

Key Features

Power station capacity: 1002 watt hours
Solar panels: four 200-watt solar panels
Energy created by one panel in direct sunlight: 184 watts
Max AC output: 120 volts and 1000 watts
Also available with a 2000Wh power station
Also available with two 80-watt panels

Along with the BioLite BaseCharge 1500 and Anker 555, the Jackery Explorer 1000 Pro had one of the more streamlined user interfaces. There are separate buttons to activate the USB outlets, AC outlets, and DC outlet, along with a button to turn on the power station’s light (in case you want to light up your camp or home) and one to turn on the display. The display here gives you the bare minimum of information—watts in, watts out, percent of the battery remaining, and the time to charge or deplete the battery based on the current conditions.

The Explorer 1000 Pro has a max output of 1000W (peaking at 2000W), which is enough juice to power many modern refrigerators. But given that its battery life is only 1002Wh, it can only supply that power for about a day (assuming it’s not charging anything else) unless it’s also being supplied with fresh juice from a solar panel setup at the same time. For some, this won’t be an issue, as they’ll simply be using the battery to channel power to their other devices during the day while it’s charging, and then using the battery at night to power more low-key items like the best camping fans or maybe one high-energy device like a portable fridge.

At over 25 pounds, the Jackery Explorer 1000 Pro, is one of the more transportable units I looked at, but it’s still not something that you’d want to lug more than a hundred feet or so at a time.

The Solar Panel

I originally tested the SolarSaga 200W solar panel as a full setup, with four panels plugged into a single power station. This test showed the full power of the array, which registered 650W of power generation on a sunny (albeit hazy) day. I retested a single panel in tandem with the rest of the units in this review more recently, and under completely clear skies, the panel was even more impressive: It registered 184W of energy coming from a single panel. If you don’t have much time to recharge your power station from the sun, then the full setup with all four panels is a no-brainer.

It is, though, a little complicated. Each panel comes with a carrying case and a cable that connects back to the two DC ports on the Explorer 1000 Pro. If you see a math problem here, that’s correct: You’ll also need two of the Jackery Solar Panel Connectors, which, strangely, are not included in the purchase price. Two of these can be used to double the number of panels you can connect to the Explorer 1000 Pro.

Setting up and taking down this many panels takes some time, but I was impressed by how easy and intuitive it was. That’s because Jackery streamlined the number of ports on each unit, making it that much clearer what cable connects to what unit in what port.

While there might at first glance appear to be a disconnect between the charging time capabilities of this setup and its battery life, it’s worth keeping in mind that conditions are not always optimal. One of the things that impressed me most about these units is the panel’s ability to generate electricity in lowlight conditions. Even in complete shade—dusk fast approaching—a single SolarSaga was generating a 6W input.

Best Budget: Anker 555 Solar Generator (555 PowerHouse with Two (2) 625 Solar Panels 100W)

Key Features

Power Station Capacity: 1024 watt hours
Solar Panels: two 100-watt solar panels
Energy Created By One Panel In Direct Sunlight: 94 watts
Max AC output: 110 volts and 1000 watts
Also available with a 1229Wh power station and three 100W solar panels
Max power station output is 110V
XT60 port on the solar panel needs an adapter to be compatible with the power station

If your family has a bevy of devices that seemingly all need to be plugged in simultaneously, you are in luck with the Anker 555 PowerHouse. It was the only unit in my test that boasted six AC outlets, as well as three USB-C outlets and two USB-A outlets. There were so many outlets that it was actually hard to find enough things to plug into it in my home—I ended up with an air purifier, sun lamp, two fans, a laptop, and a battery pack plugged in. The 555 PowerHouse had no problem with this—it barely used a third of its total output power. If your family has a bunch of devices that simply must be charged at all times, then this is a great option.

Note that this would not be the best choice for someone looking for backup power for their refrigerator, as its 1,024 watt hour capacity was on the smaller side in my test and only has up to 110-volt output.

Something else I liked about this unit was the utility—and comparative simplicity—of its charging abilities. It has one DC input port in the back and a USB-C 100W port that plays double duty with input and output. As someone who struggles to keep track of the sheer number and variety of cords that are always floating around, I appreciated the ability to recharge this unit without tracking down the original cord.

The Solar Panel

The Anker 625 was easily the best of the 100W panels I tested—it was one of the best solar panels for camping I tested back in the spring, and it’s still one of my favorite pieces of gear. It even beat out the 200W Jackery SolarSaga if you consider that this panel generated 94 percent of its claimed output, while the Jackery only managed 92 percent. Part of this is the inclusion of a sundial in the top center of the panel, which helped me align the panel correctly during setup. This sundial is such a useful feature, that after I had correctly aligned the Anker 625, I went back and adjusted all the other panels to match it—an instant uptick in power was measured. Two of these panels is a great choice for recharging a power station the size of the 555 PowerHouse.

I’ve been testing this panel for a while—unlike some of the others in this test—and in that time I’ve noticed that it’s picked up a bit of scuffing along the edges of the fabric backing. While not ideal, this has not impacted the functionality of the unit in the slightest.

Most Portable: BioLite BaseCharge 1500 Solar Panel 100

Key Features

Power station Capacity: 1521 watt hours
Solar Panels: one 100-watt solar panel
Energy Created By One Panel In Direct Sunlight: 52 watts
Max AC output: 110 volts and 1200 watts
Also available with a 622Wh power station
Lightest unit I tested
Power station is easy to use
Power station is compatible with the Goal Zero Boulder 200 (up to two)

Like the Jackery Explorer 1000 Pro and the Anker 555 PowerHouse, the BioLite BaseCharge 1500 has a sleek and streamlined user interface that is easy to read and understand. The display panel shows the percentage of your battery left, the estimated number of hours it will take to either run through or finish charging the battery, the watts coming into your unit, and the watts going out. It also shows you the number of watt-hours the unit has used in total—watching that number was a bit like watching the odometer tick up on your car. Not super useful daily, but a nice thing to know in the aggregate. There are separate buttons to turn on the ports for USB, DC, and AC power, as well as a button to turn on the display. (A second button allows you to reset the display of how many watts you’ve used, useful if you are interested in getting an accurate read on your total power needs).

There were three details that made the BioLite BaseCharge 1500 stand out next to the competition:

A wireless charging option on top of the unit. (Unfortunately, I was not able to test this as I do not have a device with this capability.)
The choice to put the input port on the front of the unit, as opposed to the back. During testing, I found that this configuration was easier when plugging in solar panels.
This power station is surprisingly lightweight, especially compared to the Yeti 1500X, which has a comparable watt-hour capacity. If you plan to move your power station from room to room, this is a no-brainer.

During testing, the BioLite BaseCharge 1500 was one of the few power stations where the “hours to empty” estimate kept jumping around. It probably accurately reflected the change in power needs of the bigger devices, but was confusing to look at and made the time estimates less useful than they would have otherwise been. (The percentage estimate of the amount of battery life remaining, however, stayed fairly consistent.)

The Solar Panel

While the BaseCharge 1500 ended up being one of my favorite power stations, the BioLite Solar Panel 100 was my least favorite solar panel. First off, two kickstands simply don’t provide enough support for the panels. This is partly because two just isn’t enough, but also because one of the kickstands is situated closer to the middle of the unit, rather than both being on the outer edges. I was able to use the BaseCharge 1500 to help prop it up a bit, but it wasn’t an ideal solution.

One thing that I did like about this unit is that, like the Anker 625, it incorporated a sundial, which helped me to situate the panel at the right angle to maximize the energy output.

However, even with that advantage, this was by far the weakest panel in my test, only generating about half of its claimed output even on a clear day with sunny skies. If you choose to go with a BaseCharge 1500, it’s worth considering pairing it with a Goal Zero Boulder 200W, a pairing that proved successful during testing.

Best Customization: Goal Zero Yeti 1500X Boulder 200 Briefcase Solar Generator

Key Features

Power Station Capacity: 1516 watt hours
Solar Panels: one 100-watt solar panel
Energy created by one panel in direct sunlight: 73 watts
Max AC output: 120 volts and 2000 watts
Solar panels also available at 200-watt and 300-watt capacity
power station s available in sizes ranging from 187 watt hours to 6071 watt hours
Possible to monitor the power station from another room using the app
The larger power station s could power major appliances for days without recharging
Heavy
Less intuitive than other power station s I looked at
Difficult to recharge if you lose the original cables

The Yeti 1500X was one of the most complicated user interfaces to navigate, and included several details that I have mixed feelings about. The most glaring one is that when the unit is plugged into a power source, a light blinks blue continuously until it is charged, when it switches to solid blue—if you are in the same space as this unit when it is charging, this is very distracting. Next is the three buttons above the display—which read “unit,” “light,” and “info.” Unit is fairly straightforward—it toggles the input and output measurements between volts, amperes, watts, etc. This is pretty handy if you’re curious about how much power a given device is chewing through. Next is light—on other power stations, this button turns on an actual light, which is useful if you’re trying to see what you’re doing in the evening hours. The Goal Zero, however, does not have a built-in light; what this button turns on and off is the display screen showing the power supply. The info button only seemed to turn on the display (not off)—it was unclear what other use this was meant to have.

Interestingly, despite having one of the most powerful AC ports in my test, there was only space for two plug-ins. Most of the time, I suspect this will be plenty for people (and it does help to cut down on the unnecessary juice being lost out of these ports), but others might find themselves digging out a powerstrip to make up for the lack fo ports.

One of the more unusual features of the Yeti 1500X is a top lid, which has storage for charging cables, or anything else you want to throw in there. Underneath, it also has detailed descriptions of all of the power limitations of the various ports, plus evergreen reminders about not letting your power station get wet—all in semi-legible font. Surprisingly that can’t be said for any of the power stations in my test (including the Anker 767, which despite having the largest surface area strangely didn’t include this information at all). There is also a second 8mm port under the lid as well as a 12V HPP output port.

The amount of power it was being charged with supplying—1385 watts through a single AC port (I had plugged it back into the Anker 767 unit) was higher than anything else I tested, due to this being the only combination where that was available—the maximum input capability of the Yeti 1500X is 150V from AC power). The icon showing how much power was remaining did, however, stay consistent.

Like the Anker 767, the Yeti 1500X has an app that you can use to monitor the battery’s power usage. This app was not as intuitive to use as the Anker 767’s, requiring several more steps to get to the point where I could monitor the battery usage (it also asked me to upgrade its firmware seemingly every other time I opened it). However, once you have the whole thing set up, it provides just as much information and control as the Anker 767 app.

The Solar Panel

I tested both the Boulder 100W and the Boulder 200W from Goal Zero. These are basically the same panels (although with different ports (HPP versus DC), affecting what other power stations you might be able to pair them with), just at a different size, so whether you choose one over the other will depend on your energy needs, and your personal strength.

These panels are significantly bulkier and more cumbersome than anything else I tested. While the likes of Jackery’s SolarSaga series and the Anker solar panels are a bit like someone took a backpacking solar panel and just blew it up to 20x the size. The Boulder series from Goal Zero looks like a solar panel off your house that’s shrunken down to something you could throw into the back of your car.

Both the 100W and the 200W solar panels come with carrying cases, which due to the placement of the zippers are kind of a nuisance to use. But use them you should because the way these panels fold up leaves the solar cells on the outside of the package, rather than on the inside (like the rest of the solar panels in my test). While the 100W panel was heavy, but otherwise easy enough to move thanks to the inclusion of a comfortable handle on the long side of the folded-up panels, the 200W had a tendency to drag across the ground (at least this was my experience, as a 5 foot 5 inch individual), forcing me to lean to one side as I walked. Did I mention that these panels were heavy? At 42 pounds, the Boulder 200W is extremely heavy.

While the Boulder solar panels were reasonably easy to set up, the way the legs are designed give you fewer options for maximizing the angle of the sun in the winter months, when it’s lower to the horizon. This showed during testing, when the panels only pulled in 73W for the 100W panel, and 143W for the 200W panel.

Can a Solar Generator Power a Well Pump?

Not only are they a good way of trimming the electric bill, but solar generators can also be a great asset to your property. Whether you’re out somewhere living off the grid or just trying to curb some water problems caused by a utility outage, a solar generator could be the answer to your problems.

Can a solar generator power a well pump? The short answer is yes, but it depends on a number of factors.

There is a bunch of stuff that’s important to be aware of if you’re considering integrating a solar power system into your well pump. That’s where we come in.

Solar Generators to Run a Well Pump

Why Would You Install a Solar Generator?

Many people can’t use their well pump in the event of a power outage because it relies on utility power. However, a solar generator can supply power to the pump during a power outage, providing you with running water even when the lights are out.

Since it relies on a renewable source of solar energy, a solar generator can be used on properties in rural or isolated areas, whether the water supply is at surface level or deep underground.

It’s also an effective way of cutting costs on your monthly electric bill, plus the maintenance is minimal and inexpensive with the models of recent years.

You’d only have to replace two items occasionally. The solar panels need a good scrubbing every couple of years to ensure that they perform at their best. Then, every five years or so, the pumping mechanisms need to be replaced. Both items are cheap and easy to do.

It’s also a lot cheaper opting for an off-grid solar power system instead of trying to trench main power to an isolated location. Trenching will cost you time and money.

You can think of the solar power system as the new-age version of the windmill, with the added bonus of not having to rely on how hard the wind blows.

What Kind of Well Pumps Are Out There?

There are a few things to consider before installing a well pump if you haven’t done so already. But even then, some of this info will prove useful to you.

Submersible Pump

A submersible well pump, as the name suggests, is installed underwater inside of the well. It’s practical and suited for most wells regardless of how deep they are. They’re considered to be quite flexible which is, in part, why they’re so prevalent in the market.

This kind of pump is watertight which means that they are going to last a long time before they need any repairs.

When the repairs do need to be done, though, then the pump would have to be entirely removed from the well. A professional can do this for you but the labor involved will bump up the repair costs.

The average submersible well pump needs 2,500 W of energy to run efficiently, so you’ll need a fairly hefty setup to power it.

Jet Pump

A jet pump is more sophisticated than other pumps. It can deliver more water faster because of the high levels of power it can put out. Fortunately, it’s also capable of working at various depths.

The installation process is a little different from other pumps as it depends on whether the pump is a double-drop or single-drop model.

A single-drop model is ideal for shallow wells. It can be set up inside, either in a separate building or inside your house.

A double-drop model is good for deeper wells but requires a different installation, called a “split”. This means that while the components regarding the jet assembly are inside of the well, the motor has to stay dry above ground.

It can be an expensive endeavor upfront but the low cost of maintenance makes it a cheaper long-term investment.

Jet pumps come at a range of powers, but the most basic will run at around 1.5 horsepower. This can take anywhere between 2,000 and 2,400 watts.

This is nearly twice as much power as you’d need to power a space heater. so you’ll need a strong generator to keep it going.

Centrifugal Pump

A centrifugal pump needs to be located next to the well inside mechanical housing as opposed to inside the well, which makes maintenance less of a hassle.

The pump rotates a fan internally creating a negative suction pressure, resulting in a vacuum that pulls water from inside the well. One shortcoming is that it doesn’t create a strong enough suction force that can be used in deeper wells. This is why centrifugal pumps should preferably be used in a well that’s shallower than 25 ft.

While it’s not the best-performing pump, it can still do its job and be the most affordable option available.

Of all the well pump options, this one requires the least amount of power, coming in at an average of 1,200 watts. While this is still more than what your average, portable 300-watt solar generator can power. it’s more in range for average solar battery packs, making it a good option for the average user.

AC DC Water Pumps

AC and DC when talking about water pumps denote what kind of electrical current they use to generate power. AC is alternating current and DC is direct current. Both come with their respective ups and downs.

AC Pumps

One of the biggest advantages that an AC pump has is that it is the standard kind of pump you can get. All homes are connected to a municipal grid run off of AC power, which means that pretty much every pump is running off either 120V or 240V AC.

So, you could already have an AC pump connected if you live in a grid-connected home, or it’s going to be cheap to get one. The high voltage means that the wiring costs aren’t going to be an issue since higher voltages can run on cheaper and thinner wires.

The downside is that you’ll need a high-power inverter if you want to run an AC pump on solar energy. This can easily push up the cost by several hundred in the end. If you’re running your well pump from a generator, this can have a negative on the lifespan of your solar batteries.

Inverters also reduce the total efficiency of the solar power system which means you may have to add more solar panels or increase the size of your battery bank to compensate for any loss in power.

DC Pumps

A DC water pump doesn’t need an inverter which makes it quite advantageous to have one on an off-grid system. This also means that buying a new pump doesn’t involve the inverter, a battery, or solar panel capacity making it the lowest cost choice.

Unlike the AC pumps, which are readily available, you may have to buy a new one on special order. DC pumps also run at lower voltages, which means that they use a different kind of wiring setup. It can get quite expensive if there’s a big distance between the power source and the pump itself.

It’s also not the ideal choice if your water usage tends to be higher as DC pumps only come in lower to medium capacity models. High water usage means you’d be better off using the AC pump.

How Many Solar Panels Does a Water Pump Need?

The number of panels you’ll need depends on the wattage the water pump needs to run. Generally speaking, a 1,000W water pump would need 5 solar panels.

You should also keep in mind that the measurements should be totally accurate to ensure that enough energy is being delivered from the panels to the pump. It’s better to aim for a little more than you need to make sure you can run your pump even when it needs more power than the rated setting.

Already have a solar system? Not an issue but remember to take into account the relationship between the output of the panels with the input of the generator.

The Best Solar Generators for Running a Well Pump

Solar generators are the modern-day answer to windmills and gas-powered generators. Relying on a renewable energy source like the sun, it can provide your well pump with the necessary power to deliver running water to your home, whether you’re off-grid or experience a power outage.

The River Max is quite a small solar generator considering that it has a battery capacity of 576Wh. Although, it can still do a decent job when hooked up to solar panels. The max solar input that it can handle is 200W.

The downside to having such as small battery capacity is the pump it’ll be used for. For the River Max, the ideal pump has to be specced at 12V, 10A which is prohibitively specific and not everyone might have a pump like that.

The average battery cycle life of the River Max falls a bit short in comparison to other solar generators. It only takes about 500 cycles before the battery’s capacity degrades to 80%.

One of the great things about the EcoFlow River Max is that it can be used while charging. which makes it ideal for running your well pump without having to store the required energy beforehand.

EcoFlow River Max

For well pumps that need to be used on a daily basis, this would have to be the best-suited solar generator for it.

The generator includes the expandable battery feature and can even stack the batteries which are 2,000 Wh each. This means you can apply more energy storage to it, going as high as 15,000 Wh.

The generator also features a powerful AC inverter that can deliver 3,000 W continuously with a rated surge protection of 6,000 watts, so there’s no risk that your well pump will blow a fuse and leave you powerless.

While the generator is capable of powering most pumps that run between 115V and 120V it depends on how long the well pump will be running. This makes it ideal in the case of power outages when many homes’ access to running water is cut off.

However, the generator can only provide half of its maximum AC output and solar input with a single battery, you’ll need two batteries to have it running at its highest capacity.

We recommend keeping the owner’s manual in case of any issues as the LCD screen the generator comes with doesn’t show any warning lights or signs.

Titan 3,000 W Solar Generator

The Yeti has the largest battery capacity compared to the generators on this list, coming in at a whopping 3,032 Wh.

As such, it is able to power a number of appliances and utilities including well pumps, refrigerators, power tools, etc. It can provide a continuous output of up to 2,000 W from the AC ports and an output surge of 3,500 W.

Its downfall, like the River Max, is its battery cycle life which averages 500 cycles before the capacity goes down to 80%. It’s also not compatible with any third-party batteries that could help improve its lifespan.

Conclusion

Solar generators are more than just a fad. Recent developments in battery technology and Smart charge controllers have opened a whole world of possibilities in terms of what you can power with these humble giants.

What was once the domain of gas-guzzling diesel generators can now easily be managed by eco-friendly, silent, and emission-free solar generators. Not only are you doing good by the planet by running your well pump from renewable energy, but you also get energy for free and need to do less routine maintenance to keep the lights on and the water flowing.

Did you find our blog helpful? Then consider checking:

Patriot Power Generator 1800

This best-selling portable solar generator is your “Magic Bullet” to protect you from blackouts, power failures the crumbling electric grid. Use the Patriot Power Generator inside your home — to power a fridge, freezer, medical devices more. It comes ready to use never needs gas… ever!

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Patriot Power Portable Solar Generator

Protect Your Family in a Dangerous Blackout with a Solar Panel Generator

A power outage can happen at any moment.

And the fact is that without power, everything will just. STOP. And when it does. those who aren’t prepared might sit defenseless in the dark. Helpless for many days, or even weeks.

Sure, you could use a gas generator. But those make a ton of noise, draw unwanted attention, have toxic fumes.

Not so with the Patriot Power Generator 1800. It’s lightweight, fume-free and safe to use inside your home. It’s whisper-quiet and won’t attract attention. Most importantly, you’ll be able to recharge it again and again… for FREE.

Picture all the ways you’ll use your solar generator:

Cycle your fridge or freezer
Charge cell phones laptops
Keep CPAP oxygen going
Turn on a TV for important news
Run a fan, or electric blanket
Take it tailgating or in your RV!
Use power tools in weather event
Turn on lights for comfort, or to ward off looters
And much more

This solar generator could truly make a difference for you and your family in a crisis. Click “Add to Cart” to start your order now.

24 Hours a Day / 7 Days a Week / 365 Days a Year

A Solar Generator “Worth its Weight in GOLD!”

Real reviews from real customers. Sometimes customers receive a free product to test or receive a free product as a thank you for submitting honest feedback. For more information, see footnote 1.

This Solar Generator is Powerful Easy to Use. Right Out of the Box!

Here’s what you’ll love about the best-selling Patriot Power Generator…

Superior Engineering

Inside your solar generator, there’s a powerful lithium-iron-phosphate battery famous for its stability. You’ll love the reliability and strength of this advanced engineering.

Power Storage than Before

Compared to the previous model, your Patriot Power Generator 1800 now has a continuous output of 1,800 watts, with 3,048 peak. And it can hold 768 Wh of power (60 Ah).

That means that if an appliance uses 1,800 watts of power or less, your Patriot Power Generator can run it. Most small appliances including your fridge and freezer fall into this group.

Run Times for Common Appliances:

USB Lamp. 193 Hours

Phone Charger. 153.6 Hours

Mini Fridge. 106 Hours

Fridge/Freezer. 19.2 Hours

Aquarium Heater. 5.1 Hours

CPAP Machine. 15.4 Hours

Portable Stove. 38 Minutes

Microwave. 51 Minutes

Run times are approximate; results vary based on appliance usage conditions. For more information, see footnote 5.

Plenty of Electrical Outlets

To make sure it’s ready to handle whatever you throw at it, the Patriot Power Generator includes 8 convenient outlets.

Truly Plug Play

You don’t need to be a gadget person to use your solar generator. Three simple steps and you’ll be up and running:

Unfold your solar panel in the sunlight
Plug your solar panel into the generator
Plug your devices into the generator enjoy FREE power from the sun

Your solar generator arrives charged and ready to go. There’s no assembly required… you can start using it right away.

100-Watt Solar Panel Included

A commercial-grade solar panel comes with your unit. Many competitors make you pay separately for this! And their panels aren’t nearly as nice.

Durable metal frame
Reinforced corners carrying handle
Folds easily for discreet storage

Even “daisy chain” additional solar panels together to double or triple your power… and to cut your charge time in half.

2,500 Lifecycles

You can recharge your solar generator 2,500 times. That’s like 6.8 years of daily use. About 4X the shelf life of most solar generators.

Fast Charge Times

Charge in as few as 3.5 hours with the included AC cord. Or charge in 10 sun hours with the included solar panel.

Compact Lightweight

Your Patriot Power Generator is only 40 pounds. It’s designed to be portable.

And it’s built tough. So while easy to move, your solar generator weighs about as much as 5 gallons of water, a big bag of pet food, or maybe your 3-year old grandchild (without all the squirming). Not super heavy, but just heavy enough to withstand a drop on the ground, rough handling, or even being run over by a truck. We tried it!

Patriot Power Generator 1800 Information:

100% Satisfaction Guarantee

Claim Your Patriot Power Generator Now

24 Hours a Day / 7 Days a Week / 365 Days a Year

Customer Reviews: Folks Love This Solar Generator

I used my Patriot Power Generator during Hurricane Ian. I find regular generators annoying, but this ran my fan quietly all night, and nothing in my freezer went bad! I’ve already had quite a few people ask me where I got this. I tell them, instead of having to worry about gas or propane, Florida’s got the sun — hello! Use it!

I Feel Secure Having This

“The Patriot Power Generator handles my lights, AC if I need it, a small heater, my microwave and my TV. I also have a small refrigerator I can plug in. I put my solar panels on the trailer hitch and recharge while I use my generator inside.

I’ve used a gas generator before and spent 50 for gas for 3 days. But the Patriot Power Generator can go inside while I sleep, and I don’t have to worry about anything. I feel a lot more comfortable.

I’m really glad I made the investment. Don’t think about it too long. JUST DO IT.”

Real reviews from real customers. Sometimes customers receive a free product to test or receive a free product as a thank you for submitting honest feedback. For more information, see footnote 1.

Your 4Patriots Order is 100% Risk-FREE

100% Satisfaction Guarantee

If, for any reason, you’re dissatisfied at any time during the first 365 days after purchase, return the product to the original shipping warehouse, and you’ll receive a refund minus any shipping fees. You’ll get your money back. That’s a firm promise and commitment.

Your Order Helps USA Veterans

When you shop with 4Patriots, a portion of the proceeds goes to charities that support our veterans and their families. Including Operation Homefront, Fisher House, A Soldier’s Child-Foundation and Team Rubicon.

4Patriots and our affiliated brands have donated more than 975,000 since we founded the company. And the number keeps growing!

You can feel good knowing that you’re supporting our veterans while getting the peace of mind you deserve.

An American Company You Can Count On

Thanks to your support, we’re able to employ 175 American men and women from all across the USA. People who work hard and truly enjoy helping folks get prepared for emergencies.

Our office is located in Nashville, Tennessee. We’re real people – Americans. Not some 800 number in a foreign call center.

So, if you need help… please call or chat with our friendly, America-based customer service team today.

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Solar Panel Generator FAQs

Q: How long will my Patriot Power Generator 1800 keep me protected?

Q: How do you Daisy Chain the Panels?

Q: What if I can’t afford this?

Q: What if I change my mind?

Q: Is it safe to buy online?

All testimonials in this advertisement are from real people; sometimes names and photos have been changed to protect their privacy and some were given free products in exchange for their honest feedback. Testimonials represent exceptional results, don’t apply to the average purchaser and are not intended to guarantee that anyone will achieve the same results. The organizations, publications and people referenced on this site are not affiliated with 4Patriots. They have not endorsed, sponsored or recommended this product; no affiliation or endorsement is claimed.Terms conditions apply.Cade Courtley is a former Navy SEAL and Platoon Commander who served 9 years of active duty and has been compensated by 4Patriots for his hard work in helping us test and endorse this product.
Peak output for the Patriot Power Generator increased from 2,000 W (1500 model) to 3,048 W (1800 model). Continuous output is 1,500 W and 1,800 W, respectively. Storage capacity for DC devices increased from 600 Wh (1500 model) to 768 Wh (1800 model).
Your survival food is designed to last 25 years on the shelf. Storage conditions impact the shelf life of your food. For best results, always protect your food from heat, air and moisture. Avoid prolonged exposure to temps above 75 degrees F. Keep food sealed until ready to eat. Shelf life will vary based on storage conditions.
These kits are designed to provide energy and nutrients for one person in stressful emergency situations. They are not intended to be complete caloric replacements during “normal” times. You’ll want to make sure you have additional food items on hand so that in an extended emergency you’ll be able to supplement your daily calorie intake, nutrients and variety with additional food items available on this site, food you have stockpiled in your pantry, fresh produce from your garden, etc. An average adult needs approx. 2,000 calories per day to meet their energy needs. This kit provides approximately 1,253 calories per day for one person. This may not be enough for optimal nutrition, especially for an extended period of time. Keep in mind that caloric needs vary based on your age, gender and physical activity level. Every person’s needs, goals and desires for nutrition and calories are different. In order to supplement your daily calorie intake, to add variety or to provide food for more than one person, we offer a number of supplemental products, including food bars, meat packs, fruit and vegetable packs, etc. By combining our kits with these additional products, you can ensure that you have 2,000 calories per day available to you during emergency situations. We’d be happy to discuss your particular preparedness goals, and to help you select more or less survival food to meet your unique needs. Call 1-800-304-4202 to speak with our friendly Customer Service team.
Refrigerators, freezers and similar appliances maintain a safe temperature by running on cycles. The CDC recommendation is to keep temperature below 40°F and above 32°F. If starting with a cold appliance, running backup power to your fridge for 1 hour will maintain temperature for about 4 hours. Usage conditions will impact this estimate (interior temp, exterior temp, appliance age features, fridge contents, etc.). Click here for more tips on cycling your fridge or freezer.

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Updated 2022: How To Build A DIY Solar Generator (3,000 Watt) – Part 1

In this series I will show you how to save money by building your own DIY Solar Generator, with all the same features as the commercial made units. The finished result will be a high quality solar generator with more serviceability and customization options to your own needs than the ready made units.

Note: The original design of this DIY solar generator used a 2,000 watt inverter. We have upgraded it to the new 3,000 watt model in the latest version along with LifePo4 battery, and other improvements. Before you build the solar generator following our how to plans, be sure to watch the updates video below for the recent changes!

Introduction

Solar Generators (also called Solar Powered Generators) are extremely useful tools. I started looking into some of the largest portable solar generator units on the market because the idea of a completely silent generator that can run large power loads while never needing gasoline is a really cool concept. Whether you want to run a portable table saw, or go tailgating / camping where the noise of a standard generator would be irritating, these solar generators are really handy.

I soon realized I could build my own — getting to pick the components that best match my needs, and even better save approximately half the cost vs buying a manufactured solar generator. This post will show you step-by-step how to build your own weatherproof indoor/ outdoor diy solar generator!

Solar Generator Build – Quick Links

After seeing what was available, I found myself wanting to design my own DIY solar generator for many reasons. For one it will be a lot cheaper. Second, I can add several features I wanted to add that are not in to the manufactured units. Finally, because it will be an enjoyable project!

By building your own, you will learn all about small off-grid solar setups, and also be able to fix the individual components if you ever have problems with it down the road. You can also easily modify the plans to build a permanent style off grid solar power setup for a cabin or camper.

For comparison, here is a popular manufactured unit. It is nice looking package, and if you don’t care about cost it might be a good option for you, especially if you are not really the maker type.

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

The above unit is priced on the higher end for what you can find on Amazon – but it is a power monster!

The solar generator I am going to show you how to build will cost half the price, include a 2,000 watt / 4,000 watt peak AC inverter, a 100W solar panel, a high quality true deep cycle AGM battery. I also will add extras, such as integrated LED flood lamps, a high current port for attaching jumper cables, and some others.

Main Components for our Solar Generator

I selected the components listed below based on the quality of reviews, as well as price and features suitable for this project.

Rugged Pelican Case 1620

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

I selected this Pelican 1620 case for our portable solar generator because it is waterproof / weatherproof, has rugged several sturdy handles as well as rolling wheels. My unit will be quite heavy once complete, so I needed something that can take a lot of abuse!

Here is a picture of mine:

Kreiger 3000W / 6000W Peak AC Inverter

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

The Kreiger 4,000 watt power inverter should be able to run nearly anything that you could normally power off an standard 15 Amp wall outlet. It also comes with a mountable remote power switch that we will be mounting into the side of our case, as well as heavy 0 Gauge battery cables and main fuse.

When this post was first created, we used the 2,000 watt unit which is no longer available. The 3,000 and 4,000 watt units install and wire up the same way, although the unit in the videos and photos is the older 2,000 watt version (as shown in my photo below).

Renogy 100 Watt Solar Panel Charger Kit

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

This kit includes a very high quality Renogy 100 watt monocrystalline solar panel as well as a 30A solar charger that is matched well for our needs. The kit also includes a set of MC4 solar cables for easy install. Here is what mine looks like:

EcoWorthy 100AH LifePO4 Battery

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

This battery has a built in Battery Management System (BMS), which means it will control the max charging current, prevent overcharge, or over discharge to increase the life of the battery. One other important feature is that the battery can be mounted and used in any orientation, which is important considering our solar generator may get stood upright or laid in different directions during normal use. Here is a picture of mine:

Main Components for the DIY Solar Generator

Below is a list of components used in this post and their current Amazon prices.

Click on ANY image below to see more details on Amazon

Top	Pelican 1620 Case	Buy Now
Krieger 2000 Watts Power Inverter 12V to 110V, Modified Sine Wave Car Inverter, Dual 110 Volt AC Outlets, DC to AC Converter with Installation Kit Included. ETL Approved Under UL STD 458	Buy Now
Top	Renogy Solar Starter Kit	Buy Now
ECO-WORTHY 12V 100AH LiFePO4 3000 Cycle Lithium Iron Phosphate fast charging Battery with BMS, Rechargeable battery for RV, Camping, Marine, Backup power, Solar Home Off-Grid System	Buy Now
Top	Schumacher Battery Maintainer	Buy Now
Top	NOCO GCP1 15 Amp AC Port Plug	Buy Now
Top	Nilight Flood LED Work Light	Buy Now
Top	zowaysoon Digital Voltmeter	Buy Now

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

Additional Components Supplies

Click on ANY image below to see buying options on Amazon

Top	DIGITEN 19mm Automotive Waterproof Momentary Stainless Steel Metal 12V Blue Power Symbol LED Light Push Button Toggle Switch ON/Off	Buy Now
Top	NOT FIT U19D1, 19mm Pigtail, Wire Connector, Socket Plug for U19C1, U19C2 Push Button Switch (Pack of 2)	Buy Now
Top	Hubbell-Bell Single-Gang Vertical/Horizontal Weatherproof Universal Flip Cover	Buy Now
Top	TOPELE 20Amp GFCI Outlet, 125 Volt Weather-Resistant Receptacle, Indicator with LED Light	Buy Now
Top	JEGS Universal Battery Hold Down	Buy Now
Top	GG Grand General 55241 Red 14-Gauge Primary Wire, 25 Ft	Buy Now
Top	GG Grand General 55240 Black 14-Gauge Primary Wire, 25 ft	Buy Now
Top	Orion Motor Tech 2-4 Gauge 175A Battery Cable Quick Connect/ Disconnect Electrical Connector Plug Kit	Buy Now
Top	MICTUNING LED Illuminated Automotive Blade Fuse Holder Box 6-Circuit	Buy Now
Top	Blue Sea Systems 5 Gang Common 100A Mini Busbar	Buy Now
Top	Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker	Buy Now
Top	Swordfish Nut, Washer Bolt Assortment, 240 Piece	Buy Now
Top	270 PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connector Kit	Buy Now
Top	25 Foot Lighted Outdoor Extension Cord	Buy Now
Top	Prime Wire Cable Cord winder	Buy Now
Top	Hopkins 6 Pole Round Vehicle Connector	Buy Now
Top	Tow Ready Metal Trailer End 6-Way Flat Pin Connector	Buy Now
Top	ABN 120-Piece Standard Fuse Assortment	Buy Now
Top	J-B Weld 5 Minute Set Epoxy	Buy Now
Top	4 AWG Gauge Red Black Battery Inverter Cables (You will need 2 sets of these)	Buy Now

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

Tools You May Need (if you don’t already have!)

Click on ANY image below to continue shopping on Amazon

Top	Parts Express Automatic Wire Stripper with Cutter	Buy Now
Top	TEKTON Phillips, Flat and Star Precision Screwdriver Set, 9-Piece	Buy Now
Top	IRWIN VISE-GRIP Wire Stripping Tool / Wire Cutter	Buy Now
Top	Hot Glue Gun High Temp-Cobiz Full Size (Not Mini) 60/100W Dual Power Heavy Duty Melt Glue Gun Kit with 10 Pcs Premium Glue Sticks	Buy Now
Top	Ridgid 18 Volt 500 Lbs. Torque 1,500 RPM Hyper Lithium Ion Cordless Drill / Driver Kit	Buy Now

pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

Testimonials

I just put this same Renogy system in at my cabin in Talkeetna Alaska. I was impressed with the quality and simplicity of the system…1 year later it is still ticking along. So nice to have led lights and phone chargers in a remote location.

I watched the video and surprisingly, I was able to follow along with everything you were saying I’m fixing to build one of these myself.

Thanks for the tutorial, I plan to build a solar system using your specifications. I was just curious as to what load your current specifications can handle. I’m planing to build a unit that supports a household of Fridges, A/C units, lighting, TV’s.

I love the idea and the detailed plans you provided. Thanks so much. I’m going to give this a shot myself.

Andrew Seltz

This is a fantastic tutorial presentation. I’ve been considering building a solar generator/battery backup solution for my home (we get many storm related power outages each year.) You have done a very good job planning out the components of your generator and assembling them into a finished kit that looks as good as any I’ve seen advertised for sale.

I’m planning to tweak the idea and use two panels (hinged together) and 2 batteries in the case which will require either a bigger case or some changes in the included components. I also want to put mine to use running low voltage exterior lighting when not needed for emergency power, so I get double duty from it throughout the year.

Thanks for the thorough explanation of how to get the project done!

Hi Mark, excited about this build! We live near Hilton head and after the recent hurricane we started to think about alternative energy during an evening on the patio when the power was out!

I have a question about your chosen battery. you’re building a large powered unit which I like and main Concern would be to power the refrigerator.

How did you choose your battery? Why one and not two? I saw on Amazon that the optima battery has 55AH, is this enough to power things for a good length of time (say 2-3 days incase any day is cloudy and for extra).

I am still learning about electricity, so please bear with my questions.

Can’t wait for video 3, thank you! Stephan

Hi Mark, I have thoroughly enjoyed your video tutorials on the solar generator and have been engrossed with buying and locating certain parts. I am curious. A nuclear plant is required to replace rather large batteries every five years even though they have a life-span of 15-20 years. Seem like I could easily recondition a battery or two for my uses. However, they are honkin’ big batteries and I thought I would ask your input. The batteries are GNB Flooded Classic NXT-33 They weight about 400 pounds I believe. BUT they have an amp/hour of 2264. Plugging in the item reveals all.

If you would like to leave a testimonial, please click here. Thank you!

2 thoughts on “Updated 2022: How To Build A DIY Solar Generator (3,000 Watt) – Part 1”

Helllo joy. Just wondering if the system can be recharged by heat from wood stove also with a thermal electric generation unit in case there is no sun to charge solar panel?

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I’m writing on this topic these days, casinosite, but I have stopped writing because there is no reference material. Then I accidentally found your article. I can refer to a variety of materials, so I think the work I was preparing will work! Thank you for your efforts.

Can I use this exactly as it is except I would like to add more solar panels and more LiFePO4 batteries? I do not care about being portable. I want to get 1,000 amp hours/12,000 watt hours of storage. I am thinking about eight or more 100 watt solar panels like these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09D7BMBWP And eight LiFePO4 batteries like these: https://smile.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Lithium-Battery-Overland-Applications/dp/B09F2LLMY3 What changes would be necessary?

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Is it possible that the writer of this doesn’t know the difference between watts (power) and watt hours (capacity)? The battery linked here has a 660 watt hour capacity, and it’s lead acid, which means you can really only use about 40% of that, which leaves you with about 260 watt hours. That’s a fair amount, but it’s a far cry from the high capacity lithium battery based battery packs he’s comparing them to. Also, why use such an old school solar panel? 12 volt solar panels are pretty low power, as is that charge controller. You lose a ton of power using a PWM charge controller. And a 3000 watt inverter is waaaaay over spec’d for that battery. Pulling 3000 watts from a little 12 volt battery would be 250 amps… You’d need some giant cables to deliver that, on the off chance that crappy inverter is anywhere close to honest about it’s specs (and there’s no chance it is). Also, using a modified sine wave inverter isn’t good for your electronics. Sorry but I don’t think the person who designed this should be giving advice about this stuff. Or trashing other people’s products in Amazon reviews as he did here for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R7BLPTB474PXX/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8ASIN=B07CS9HKDL I’m a huge DIY guy, but I’m sorry to say that anyone buying that Yeti generator would have an infinitely better power bank than this.

I’ve been reviewing this design for some time now and am interested in your Комментарии и мнения владельцев. What is your background and why should I believe you vs Mark? I’m always looking for a better way to build something so I’d be interested in your suggestions. Mark has been pretty upfront with all his design and having other options is good if there are better options. I would like to ask Mark some questions also, but not sure how to do that. Thanks.

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I want to adapt this for a Lithium Ion battery. Can I, and how? I see a list that names some extra items for battery care, but any immediate suggestions are appreciated.

Hello, Thank you for all your great work on this blog! I build websites, and you really worked hard to get this up. You are teaching us to be free. Thank you! Questions: 1) What type of batteries are you using: Lead Acid? Nicad? Lithium Ion? 2) Regarding the inverter inside the Pelican Case, is there enough air inside the case to allow the fans to keep the inverter cooled off? Thanks for you encouragement. Best to you

This looks like a great project and very interesting build which will provide a lot of hands-on education about how a solar generator will work. However…as I add the of all the parts it is within 50 of the BLUETTI Power Station highlighted…certainly not 50% of the cost as specified…am I missing something?

I see that the outlet is 120V AC, we use DC 220V here. How would i build one with DC 220V? I have never put together anything like this, I wanna do this project so i can build for my family members too. pls what do i need to modify to get DC 220V outlet?

Mark, Great job on this. I just finished this in time for the winter storm of the century here in Texas. Basically used it to keep my internet up, charge devices, brew coffee, etc. I’ll be adding more batteries and panels. I did have one question and one comment. First, have you thought about adding a battery monitor? If so, have you narrowed down choices? Lots to choose from out there. Second, I wanted to let you know that I had to rewire the harnesses to make them work with the switches. Maybe they sent me the wrong harnesses?? Just wanted to see if you had to do the same.

Not so much a comment but a question. I have watched the videos several times and I am so impressed with the professionalism of your build. My question is: is there somewhere else I can get a list of all the needed components. I can’t get my browser to allow the components images to show. I know the parts are referenced to Amazon and I assume the have changed, but I can’t see the chart well enough imbedded in the video to make an order for parts. Thanks for any help you can give.

Hi Fred! Sorry for the trouble. It seems some ad-blockers block the amazon links. You can find a link to the major components in the video description on YouTube (https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=E_ObjoI_XGIt=88s ) but I don’t have the full parts list there. It has been difficult keeping the parts list up to date as some of the items have changed somewhat since the video was created.

I’m curious about potential power draw on the system when the inverter is off from the remote switch but the main switch is still on. Does it still use some power? How much? How fast would it drain the batteries? Is it advisable (or even practical) to put a remote switch (mounted through the case) on the positive line between battery and the inverter? If so, this would also allow the use of cheaper inverters without a remote system. What do you think?

I have a gas powered portable generator and the THD is 23%. I’m thinking of building your 4000 watt unit. What is the THD on a 4000 watt unit.

Mark, I am very glad to have found your website. My wife and I have been living the ‘grid’ life for decades, and have recently purchased a beautiful remote piece of land in the NC mountains. Your system looks perfect. My question is- we will have a 220v well pump that will need to run occasionally. Will this system provide the power and amps we need? I look forward to your reply, Chris (and Jeanna)

I am on the verge of purchasing all the parts for the solar generator. I have a question on the Krieger 4000W inverter, it is only 1.8″ longer than the 3000W. So from what I can see it will fit physically, but would there be any advantage or issue from the power and or electrical side?

Hi, love the design and I’m about to start building one as an emergency backup for hurricane season here in South Mississippi. Any chance you have a printable wiring diagram so I’m not running back and forth to a computer as I’m working on this? Thanks in advance Matt

With fire season approaching in northern California, I’ve been thinking about solar panels but the cost isn’t in my budget right now, I was thinking that a generator would be a good substitute in the meantime. Do you think this would work for power-outages, do you have any suggestions to get the most effective/lasting generator? Power outages can sometimes last up to a week, I just want to make sure I can get the most out of it. Thanks for sharing, either way, I will be using this tutorial.

Thanks for sharing! I haven’t seen many DIY solar generators that I have had enough information. I’m excited to try this.

Was watching a YouTube review of a Bluetti solar power station or so it’s called. It ran a refrigerator but not a power saw. Is this because of the type of motor in the saw? It was rated at 2400wh/1000W. It is expensive too, 1900 plus cost of solar panels. I would believe building your own allows customization and easier replacement and repairs. Would your system equally not run a power saw? Just wondering. Thank you for all the information you have provided.

Hello. Getting ready to purchase and build. But, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using a 3000 w inverter vs a 4000 w inverter? Many thanks,

We were in power outage, so I kept question short. Just wanting to know about finding ideal array to inverter size with this system. I want to have back up power for a 9cu ft (750w) frig/freezer, a 6 qt Instant Pot or electric burner,, and some phones/laptops that don’t all need to be powered at once. The 4000w inverter is not much more in price than the 3000w, but will it actually be more inefficient? In other words, an example of more isn’t better? My 16yr old daughter is building this for an independent school project and she thinks we need the bigger one for initial power up, but I’m hesitant for other reasons. Any feedback helps. Thanks

Hi Elizabeth – I haven’t done a side by side load test between the two units, or checked the idle power loss between the two. I wish I had because that would have helped answer your question! I would assume the larger unit either has larger or more switching transistors, which may potentially use slightly more power, but in turn handle larger startup surges like you said. I don’t think you would have any trouble with those items with either unit. I have an 8 quart Instapot and its electrical sticker in the back says it should use no more than 1200 watts. Resistive loads (the electric heater Instapot) do not have a huge startup spike like inductive loads do (mostly motors). I haven’t had any problems with the compressor motors from fridge / freezers, but have had mixed results with power tools such as portable air compressors etc. Hope this helps!

The battery holds are no longer available. Do you suggest a different brand and if not, what specifications should I look for when getting a different one.

I will see if I can find some alternates to link. Thanks for letting me know! Generally you just need to see what group size the battery you are using is, then find a battery mount that lists that group size.

If i build everything exactly by your specs but use a lithium ion battery, what else would i have to change? The charge controller? I imagine could still daisy chain them as in your expansion and charge with solar etc? Your designs are brilliant btw.

Charging the battery discharges hydrogen gas. I added a boat transom drain as an air vent to my build so I don’t beed to open the case. T-H Marine DP-1-DP Self-Retaining Boat Transom Drain Plug – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY0BX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VBmIEb4DYM7QJ

I scrolled this whole thing looking for someone talking about a need to vent the battery. My understanding is that even an AGM battery can discharge hydrogen gas if overcharged. The charge controller or battery maintainer should avoid this, but what if either of those devices were to fail? A sealed pelican case full of hydrogen gas sounds very scary. Anyone have advice on this. Thanks

I wasn’t trying to power the house, but the other way around, trying to power the battery of the generator from the wall outlet.

Oh ok, then that should have just powered the battery tender / maintainer. It shouldn’t add any draw to the battery, but instead slowly recharge it. Once it is topped off the battery tender will keep the battery at a happy voltage for long term storage.

I was able to find what was draining the battery. I had inverted the cable connection at the 2 port power socket on the zowaysoon PJH-RS-0377 Car Digital Voltmeter. Once I made the change, there was no power drain. Did anybody noticed power loss on the battery when you plug the generator to the wall in your house as if you were supplying electricity to your house?

Glad you found the issue Luciano! I am not sure if I understand your second question, but it sounds like you may be trying to backfeed the house electrical system with the AC output from the inverter. That can be dangerous if you are not careful or do not have a true transfer switch. It can damage equipment when power comes back on. It can also be dangerous to lineman should they forget to shunt the lines when working on them. It is better to power your necessary equipment with extension cords unless you are certain you understand how to mitigate the dangers of back feeding your house incorrectly.

Thanks! I’ll be waiting for the new video. I ended up using the expanded battery to kinda jump start the one in the generator after hooking up the solar panels. And it seems to be working. As for the power drain, I will have to completely disconnect the battery, not just the negative cable, which I did before. I ordered a battery meter, which should help me in the future. By the way, I’m not having power drainage issue when not in use with the expanded battery. Thanks a million.

Hi Larry, Sounds cool! Would love to see some pics when you finish the build. Yes, I have some more stickers. Anyone that wants some send me an email at [email protected] with a mailing address of where to send em!

Hi Luciano, I just saw your messages and the photos. It is a bit hard to tell in the photos where some of the wires from the solar controller are connected, but it seems correct as best I can tell. Having a detailed video for checking all connections is a good idea! I may try to add that at some point. Craig’s suggestion of turning the inverter switch off is good, especially for long term storage, but usually not necessary if the unit is getting some sunlight each day. All batteries will self-discharge some, but without any load this usually takes several weeks. Yours sounds like their is a constant draw on the battery somewhere, or the solar charger is not working right. If the batteries get drained too low, they can be damaged and may not hold a full charge / will have a shorter life. Until you get the problem figured out I would completely disconnect the battery when not testing to avoid damaging the battery. Just disconnecting the negative cables from the battery is sufficient to fully disconnect it. Another option would be to plug in the battery tender, but first make sure it has enough charge to keep up with whatever is draining it down. Do you happen to have a volt or multi-meter? It can help troubleshoot this sort of stuff. I would start by checking for voltage on the solar panel leads while they are in full sunlight. Then re-connect the panel wires to the box and check for voltage at the solar panel input terminal screws on the controller (the screws you use to tighten the connection are fine to use as test points). If there is voltage there greater than 12v, then check to see the voltage on the charge controllers battery terminals match the actual battery voltage. If those all look good, see if the lights on the charge controller indicate it is charging. It should be if all the above checks out. Hope that helps!

Try testing the solar controller without the modification to make sure it’s not a hardware problem instead of a wiring issue. Also, switching the inverter off, which I mentioned in my previous comment, should help the problem you’re having with the battery becoming quickly depleted.

Do you turn the inverter switch off when not using the inverter? Leaving it on will draw some current. If that doesn’t solve it, then consider uploading pictures of your connections. There are sites on the internet for “free image hosting.” You can google it, and then link to them.

I’m having trouble with the battery. It gets depleted very quick. I got a 2nd optima battery and it is started to be depleted. I tried recharging by using the solar panel and later in the night from the wall outlet. I have looked at the schematic on the videos, but I don’t see that I did the connection incorrect. By the way, I did the modification, however the solar charge controller does not light up. Is there a blown up video or picture to redo the connections? Thanks!

Hi Mark – Great videos and instruction. Thanks for putting this all together. In the list of parts, it appears that the second part, in between the Pelican case and the Inverter is no longer available, since it is just an Amazon advertisement. Can you please tell me what that part is and if there is a replacement part available? Thanks, Jeff

Thanks for letting me know Jeff. It was the link for the solar panel charge controller kit. It looks like they have updated that with a new version. I updated the link so that is should be working again.

Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

I think I might have an issue with my system. I will connect my solar panels and by mid day my battery is at 13v, but by sunset it is depleted to 12.2-12.5v, and there’s no load while it’s charging. Any ideas?

Hi Patrick, it could just be a sign that your battery is wearing out. This happens over time naturally, or be draining the battery further than you should. Deep cycle battery manufactures usually recommend draining a battery no more than 80% to preserve the life of the battery. A new 12v battery should read around 12.7v when fully charged (with no load or charging voltage applied). As the battery wears out, this top voltage will slowly decrease.

First and foremost, thank you for the time and effort you’ve put into this post and keeping it current. This build will suit my needs perfectly (just need to get the math figured out). You mention that the system as you’ve designed it will support 400 watts of solar input. The part you call out for the solar panels includes a charge controller with a 100 watt panel. A couple of questions for you (possibly answered already and I apologize if so) 1. Did you design and do you use this system with a single 100 watt panel providing and maintaining charge? 2. Do you have any recommendations on sites for calculating actual capacity requirement? What I’ve been able to find on a general search so far points to the math for the load but doesn’t really (if at all) address how to calculate for a solar maintained battery system. I’m pretty certain that what I want/need to set up will be minimal draw but I’ve not been able to find good info on a solar maintained battery system to support it. I’ve found the math for how much a battery of X amp capacity will support over time but I’ve not been able (bad search parameters?) what is needed of the solar panels to maintain the batteries against X load.

Hi Vestal, Thanks! I currently have two 100 watts feeding my system, but it was designed to allow you to use up to four of them. See the later post on how to expand the system for more details on that. Most of the info you find assumes that there is a battery bank as well, as most systems do have one, but the calculations are to determine how much load you can sustain on a continuous basis. You can exceed that load and the batteries will draw down. This is fine for short durations as long as they are infrequent enough that the solar panels can recover the battery charge over time.

I have not experimented yet with the higher wattage panels. They may make more sense than utilizing 4 of the 100W panels. I went that route because I could use just 1 or 2 of them and keep it more flexible / portable when I wanted. The charge controller ratings will be your limit of total panel voltage and current. So long as you stay within that, you could use any combination of panels that fits your needs best.

I did not see a part number or dimensions for the new L-bracket that you use to mount the red battery cable connect to the case. Did you make them or where they store-bought?

To Mark: Currently have a solar system of 27 panels. How can I use the existing system to run your solar generator?

Hi Grant, There are a couple ways you could go about that. You could get a charge controller that is compatible with the voltage / current that your current solar array is producing and patch into it that way. Another option would be to jumper to the other system’s battery bank, so that its batteries would charge the solar generators battery. Is the goal to have a portable option you can take out in the field after it is charged up? I would assume the larger system already has an AC Inverter.

For the inverter, is there a reason that you went with the modified sine wave type instead of the pure sine wave type? I know it is cheaper, smaller and lighter. But it seems like the pure sine wave would offer you more options for using it.

Is there a reason we don’t use higher watt panels? I would think 1 or 2 300 watt panels would be easier than 4 100 watt panels? Thanks in advance for your response.

Hi Mark, great job on the design of this unit and the videos. Please e-mail the schematic diagram if available. Thanks!

I have only one solar panel right now. For the time being, I would like to try and power the electronics in just one room. If I have the panel connected 24/7 and run a clock, cell phone, and TV with the generator ( mainly in the evening). Is that the proper way to use this generator? Or is it mainly for just when the power goes out.

Your pictures and explanations…plus the pictures of actual items needed were most helpful. Good job. Much thanks.

I got the generator done and it seems to be working. I only have one solar panel right now. I had that out in the sun and plug in a portable AC to the generator. It was working for about 45 minutes and then the inverter started to beep. I turned off the AC and opened the case. The solar light was blinking green and the battery light was solid red. What does that mean? I looked at the manual, but it was confusing.

I’m trying to build one now and I’m having some issues. First when I connect the negative cables to the battery I get a spark. What do I need to do to stop that.

Hi!! Does anybody know if the 3000 watts portable solar generator with an extra battery would cover all of the power needs for a regular house for one day? Thanks!

Very unlikely. It all depends on the number of watts your appliances use. Here is a response I gave to someone else to help get you started. It’s really a mathematical question: Here are some thoughts on estimating how many batteries you need and the calculations. Here’s what I would do. First, add up your watts for all the appliances. Let’s suppose 600 watts at 120 volts as an example. Watts = amps X volts 600 = ? x 12 (volt battery) Amps = watts / volts 50 = 600/12 So, a 12 volt 50 amp hour battery would run your appliances for one hour. But, you really should drain batteries only about 20% if you want your rechargeable marine type batteries to last any number of years. Your one battery would not last too long. So, let’s say you decide to buy 128 amp hour batteries, which is fairly common. So, you can drain 26 amps from each battery safely. Suppose you buy 10. That gives you 260 amps that you can safely drain and recharge. Suppose you want to run your 600 watt appliances for 5 hours. You need 3000 watts total. 260 amps X 12 volts gives you 3120 total watts, which can give you 5 hours to run continually 600 watts. Those 10 batteries could run your appliances totaling 3000 watts total for 5 hours without over draining your batteries. Also, you will likely not be running everything continually. But, the above you be sufficient to get you started with your own calculations.

Don’t plan on running your central air/heat (non-gas), clothes dryer/washer. Window/portable air conditioner will drain it real fast. Plan on using just frig/freezer, fans, lights (preferably LED/CFL), limited TV/radio. Calculate your solar panels and batteries to store enough power for at least one day (preferably two days) while still powering what you need during the day. You don’t want to have no power just because of a rainy or cloudy day.

Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

I live in an area where the weather can cause multiple days without power. Would I be able to use this generator to backfeed power into my house (yes, of course with the proper disconnects and other safety precautions)? I want to be able to power a refrigerator, lights and fans for night time.

Would you be able to run a 5,000 btu ac unit with the 2,000 or 3,000 inverter. And if yes for how long

Hi Mark, I have a pond that has a continuous pump running my water fall. It is 1000W, 120VAC, 3/4 HP. What about the Charging the battery. Do we need to add a controller to charge the battery pack so that it run at night? Do you sell your system? Email me.

Hi Mark, Just a heads up. I’m building a similar case and wasn’t sure about putting the Krieger remote switch on the outside of the case. I emailed them and they said it’s not weather resistant so I’m going to forego installing it on my build. Figured I would share.

So you only using a 100 watt panel can this build use more panels and were would the max wattage for input be? Also can more than one battery be used or it that outside the scope for this type of project? Thanks for the website.

Thanks for sharing how to build a 2000 watt solar generator I must say that Solar generators are an up-and-coming portable energy technology.

Hi Mark, The 3000 watt inverter was no longer available when I purchased the parts so I bought the 4000 watt inverter. The inverter shuts off when I try to use it with a 1500 watt saw. I’ve tried to get help from the seller of the inverter but I suspect the information they have provided isn’t correct. They seem to think I need at minimum a 1/0 gauge wire and implied I need to change the battery cables. Isn’t it just the wire from the inverter to the battery that would need to be this size? If so, the 1/0 wires that came with the inverter would suffice, right? Or do I really need to change the battery cables to the fuse box, bus bar and jumper cable quick connect? They also said I need two batteries to run the 1500 watt saw on a 4000 watt inverter. Does this sound right? Thank you, Macy

Hi Matt, The 3000 watt model wasn’t available anymore so I bought the 4000 watt unit. It’s supposed to be rated at 8000 peak watts. As I power up the saw the voltage on the inverter’s read-out drops and the inverter cuts the power to the system at about 1900 watts. The 1500 watt saw doesn’t even get up to speed before it cuts out the power. After looking at the manual a little closer, I see the outlet is supposed to have 8/2 wire. I went out and bought some 8/2 wire but there is no way this wire will fit either the inverter or the GFI receptacle. The wire appears to be stranded so I must have grabbed the wrong type. I was using 10/2 and thought that would be ok but I don’t know for sure. I suspect the inverter is bad but I am not knowledgeable enough to second guess the customer service person. The generator worked perfectly the first time I used it. I can’t help but wonder if trickle charging the battery wrecked the inverter. Any advice is welcome. Thank you. Macy

Can anyone please tell me where the parts list is on this site for the 3000 watt design so I can order from Amazon. Thanks and Appreciate this!!

Hi Gordon, the parts list is below the photo of the battery. Each item is linked to Amazon. You might want to keep two Windows open to maneuver between the list and Amazon. I don’t think the 3000 Watt inverter is available anymore. I ended up with the 4000 watt and am having some trouble with it. Macy

Hi Mark, I built your box just as you described in your videos. I am not sharp on electricity so I am hoping you can help. I used the box two weeks ago with no trouble. Because I drained the battery a little bit, I plugged it in to trickle charge. I used it again this past weekend but had some trouble with it cutting the power. I noticed the light on the remote flashing. I didn’t find anything in the inverter manual but saw something online that this indicates the inverter was in protection mode. I doubt it was the too warm because it was 39 degrees outside. Heat wave in MN! The inverter felt cold to the touch. Admittedly, there were two of us running saws at the same time. Is it possible this was the problem? I realized I was probably drawing too much power and backed off to just one saw. This was still too much. I double checked the connections and didn’t see anything loose. Is it possible something happened to the inverter while trickle charging? Does the inverter switch inside the box have to be turned off while trickle charging the battery? Thank you for putting together such good directions in your videos. Macy

Hi Mark, I am a fan of your site and I have decided to go ahead and build a solar generator for camping, but the components list w with links to amazon seem to be gone. Let me know if you can get that back or send me a simple list of part numbers so I can take it from there. Hope you are well. You have a great resource here. Regards, Eric

Hi Eric, thanks for the interest. The amazon links for the various parts still appear for me. They are using affiliate links, so some Ad blockers will prevent them from showing, so that might be why they are not showing up for you.

No responses from Mark since January of 2018. I hope he’s well and too busy making millions to reply.

Thanks Al. Life has been really busy and I had to step away for a while. I am hoping to get back into making some more posts / videos very shortly. Sadly, no millions! : )

Has anyone explored the idea of what it would take to make this a plug and go unit. I know the idea is that of obtaining power via solar, but let me describe my purpose and interest. Our HS marching Band uses a gasoline powered generator to power our sound system and keyboards for practice and performance. I hate hauling gasoline, storing it inside the building, and the the sound generated by the engine. I’m thinking a 2000 watt sine wave inverter with a 4000 watt surge capacity attached to a couple of 100 amp AGM batteries and adding a few USB outlets as well as a GFCI to power up the sound system. I need 4-6 hours of service and the ability to recharge over night. I think this is a great outline and guide, and I’m just trying to get some ideas on how to modify to fit my needs.

I have created the same exact solar box that you described. You can go on offer up and look at my box I have for sale or you can go to my page and look at all the pictures. My page is under Justin Raphael. Send me a friend request I’ll look for it under rusty.

Hi Rusty, No modifications needed. The build I have above does include a way to charge the batteries directly from the wall. The parts list includes a 1.5A charger /battery maintainer. I added it as a wall to allow storage of the unit while keeping the batteries topped off. You could use a larger version of that charger if you needed faster recharge times, and the solar panels / solar charger are not needed if you do not intend to charge your batteries that way. Thanks for your interest!

Hello Mark, Great videos and information. I noticed that renogy doesn’t offer the controller with the lead connection anymore. I’m going to be using lithium ion batteries. Do you foresee it being a problem hooking the inverter directly to the batteries since there won’t be a low voltage disconnect? Do you recommend another charge controller?

I’ve been gathering the parts to build the 3000w set up. There’s only a handful of things i need to collect. Great walkthrough, and very informative. Considering how late i came across this, i know there’s no more stickers left, lol. I’m looking forward to the finished product. Will work great for fishing trips.

I have a 3000watt pure sine wave inverter I was going to use but it is too big to fit in my solar generator box that I make for my customers. I’ll sell it to you for 200. It cost me 400. If you want to buy it I’ll send you a pay pal email and I’ll ships to you. All I need is your email and address.

I’m looking at running a small shop in the Philippines which is currently running on the local “regular brown-out” electricity. The shop has two fridge/freezers, aircon from a box in the wall, three leds in the ceiling, flat screen TV, coffee machine, toasty machine, water cooler, and I regularly charge several iPhones and Bluetooth speakers. How do I even start to work out how much juice I’m going to need?! Most of it doesn’t have a manual. And has anyone experience of putting it between the mains electricity? I also imagine it will need a voltage stabiliser. What we do have though is plenty of sunlight.

Here are some thoughts on estimating how many batteries you need and the calculations. Here’s what I would do. First, add up your watts for all the appliances. Let’s suppose 600 watts at 120 volts as an example. Watts = amps X volts 600 = ? x 12 (volt battery) Amps = watts / volts 50 = 600/12 So, a 12 volt 50 amp hour battery would run your appliances for one hour. But, you really should drain batteries only about 20% if you want your rechargeable marine type batteries to last any number of years. Your one battery would not last too long. So, let’s say you decide to buy 128 amp hour batteries, which is fairly common. So, you can drain 26 amps from each battery safely. Suppose you buy 10. That gives you 260 amps that you can safely drain and recharge. Suppose you want to run your 600 watt appliances for 5 hours. You need 3000 watts total. 260 amps X 12 volts gives you 3120 total watts, which can give you 5 hours to run continually 600 watts. Those 10 batteries could run your appliances totaling 3000 watts total for 5 hours without over draining your batteries. Also, you will likely not be running everything continually. But, the above you be sufficient to get you started with your own calculations.

Oh yea. I forgot. I also added a meter that tells you everything. how many watts is being used and produced / battery meter / voltage / amps / currents basically everything.

I have made your box mark but I put a lot of new twists on it to accommodate every person and there need. 1. I made it without the battery so people can add there own battery acid/gel/ or lithium. Which ever they like. Plus it keeps the weight down. 2. Add a pure sine wave inverter. 3. Add a second solar input to add 300watts of solar to charge batteries quicker. 4. Added a weatherproof battery connector. So the whole box is weatherproof. 5. Added a top panel so you don’t have to look at the inside with all the wires. 6. Made it easy to replace any part that might go bad over time. 7. Added 2 fans to circulate air flow. If anyone needs one custom built Let me know. I custom make them any way you want. Just email me at [email protected]. I will send you pictures of the finished product with every option I offer.

OK, for the 1620 Inside dimensions are: 22L, 17W, and 10.75H (with the lid open) You should not feel obliged to use the same locations or even the same components. I had to do it again, I would use a pure sine wave inverter, for example which probably would not fit in my 1620 unless I bought maybe a 1000 watt inverter. The height of 11.02 in your pelican case, if that is also including the height of the lid, could be a problem. Hope this helps!

I was able to buy several surplus Pelicans a while ago that are decently bigger than the 1620. This will allow me to add a 1000W pure sine wane inverter as well as replace the floating charger with a ‘Smart’ charger. This will allow me to charge at a faster rate at night if needed. Will be able to watch the large screen TV/DVD while out roughing it in the woods. I would suggest doing searches on letgo/offerup/Ebay for used/surplus cases. I got mine for 80 each.

Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

AWESOME SITE. Was wondering 1 thing. I have a Pelican 1615 case. Will this work? Its brand new and ID like to get buy with not having to order the 1620 if I can swing it. Thanks

Hi Mark, Excellent work you have done. I have been looking it over prior to building one. A couple of Комментарии и мнения владельцев/questions I have. 1) Is the KR3000 supposed to output pure sine wave? The manual says it is modified sine wave. I know this will not adversely affect corded power tools but not sure about ‘delicate’ electronics or chargers for cordless devices. 2) Using the direct 12 high current connector for jump starting cars might present a problem They are rated at 175A. The starter motor current chart (link below) shows MANY cases where the current required could be higher (sometimes much higher) that the rating of the connector. If the draw is for very short duration and not much higher than the ration there shouldn’t be a problem, but otherwise could definitely be an issue. Are there higher rated connectors? 3) Also with the high current connector. If a battery expansion box is used (VMAX-125) and the load put upon the invertor is maxed out (6000W) or close to it the connectors between the two boxes could be forced to handle at least 250 amps load (possibly more if the primary battery is smaller than the VMAX-125). 4) I would put one of those marine super heavy battery switches in the expansion box due to the fact that as soon as you make connection you could have a major spark if one of the other is very low/dead. 5) I have seen some golf carts with flush-mounted metal boxes for the charging cable were the connector is recessed. I think this might be better because the connector would be mounted more securely and also would not be sticking out.

It’s a great idea, but a bit not realistic. The title “3000 watt” in the title is misleading, as the solar panel gives out only 100 watts max. Let’s say your battery is completely charged and it can hold like 150 amp-hours. If you don’t want to destroy the battery, you should not drain it more than 50% of the total charge, which means you can only use about 75 amp-hours of charge. If you use 3000 watts of power at 12v you will be using 3000/12 = 250 amps, which means you can only use it for 0.3 hours, or like 17 minutes. I am not even sure it’s possible to pull that many amps at once. You should really base the system size not on the inverter capabilities, but on the realistic available power.

Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

Strongly considering building this, with one adjustment: I have two 10w LED spotlights, but they’re not flush mount, so I plan to move the solar charge controller next to the battery tender and mount a fishing rod holder and second trailer harness in the area of the top handle, to accept a pole with the lights mounted on top. (Basically building Pelican’s “remote area light” with all of your added functionality.) Awesome work! Really enjoy the combination of your write up and videos, as well as Amazon links for all the major components. Thank you!

The easiest way is to follow Mark’s step-by-step videos which is better than plans. They’re all on YouTube or you can follow the links on this site to the next video. You actually see him in the process of building the solar generator, and the tools he used to accomplish the different tasks. That, plus all the links to buy the components puts this within the ability of nearly everyone to be able to build. This was my first time working on a solar generator project.

Hi Thanks for posting such a wonderful tutorial. I too am planning to build my own portable solar system. I was wondering, why go with a modified sine wave invertor, rather than a pure sine wave? With a pure sine wave, I know its cost a little more, but you will be able to run sensitive electronics devices. Thanks Al

Hello Mark. Very nice project and great instructions! I have a quick question: When looking up this battery on Amazon, the description also shows the option for a red top and yellow top. Their recommendation seems to be to use the blue top only for starting. And it seems, based on their description, that the yellow top would be more suitable for this application, but I have no clue. Could you please shed some light on the rationale behind your choice of battery. Much appreciated!

Mark, I noticed in the pictures that you did not include ventilation in the case, how do keep the inverter from overheating? Also the solar charge controller has a temperature sensor and the heat from the inverter in an unvented box could affect the charging operation. I build military target ranges and laid my panels flat to prevent ricochets from striking the panels and I started losing batteries life. Turns out by laying them flat in 90 degree temperature the sensor did not have enough air flow to operate properly. Another thing is that even though the battery is a sealed lead acid it vents around the negative post, in a sealed box there is nowhere for the gasses to go. One of the things I noticed in these Комментарии и мнения владельцев was someone stating they were not familiar with electricity, my advice when you start building one of these is to have someone who is familiar check your work BEFORE connecting the battery. Another was someone wanting to power refrigerators, AC’s, TV’s and such. Keep in mind that using a 50-55 AH battery you can power a CPAP machine for 8-9 hours before having to recharge. With a 100 watt panel it takes about 6-10 hours of bright sun to fully recharge. Sorry, didn’t mean to write a book

Rick, I have a CPAP machine that uses 13 amps (12V), so that would give me only 4 hours. I’m obviously going to have to include a separate battery and additional panel in my system.

Hi Mark! I’m almost done the build. I’m into Part 4, wiring and have wired the battery, bus bar, quick connect, and put the fuse box in. I was wondering if you have any Survivalist stickers left. Would really like to put one on the case! By the way, thank you for the research. postting all the materials, the videos and the links to Amazon. You really made this so easy!

This is such great info and using it to piece together my project now. Thank you What portable solar panels do you recommend? I’m looking for something that may fold up in a briefcase or something flexible for the underside of a tonneau cover to be flipped up. Thoughts?

Hi Mark, Let me first in congratulating you on an amazing DIY project. You videos are amazing and the finished product is worthy of admiration. I would like to get your advice on the following; How many solar panels and batteries would I need to run an average size refrigerator 24 a day and keep operating everyday? Is there any other change that I would need to do to the system? I would like to make only my refrigerator completely off grid. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Javier Espinosa

Dear Sir, I would like to contact you privately. Can I have your email address? You can reach me on [email protected]

I liked your build had kept the YouTube link to your videos for when I go back to my country I get to build it. 1 thing is let’s say I don’t want a portable solar generator and want want to add more batteries can you make a video on that. Trying to power a normal refrigerator, fan, lights in a home for when power goes out.

Hey I finsihed the build, and it all seems to working fine except for the voltage meter reader on the outside. Doesnt come on. The USB is working though. Curious where I should start on troubleshooting this. I never worked any kind of wiring before until this so I’m kinda stuck like chuck not wanting to mess something else up.

Check your wireling setup. You could have them switched of a bad meter. Could be a bad connection or connector

Hi Mark, I have one question. Do I need DCDC charger to charge from car battery to Generator. The charger you put in is for AC outlet so when battery get full it will disconnect it. Thanks Aslam Molani

Thanks Mark. Yes it make sense. I think it will be fine if I plug one side in the cig. port at the back of my suv and second one in the cig.port on the generator or i have to add additional cig.port which connect directly to the generator battery. (it’s when I am not using solar panel while driving) Thanks again for you help. Aslam Molani

Great! Shouldn’t be any need to add a second cigarette port to the generator. The one that is on their will work. Just make sure to turn on the power switch for it, and it is wired through the fuse block and then directly to the battery.

Hi Mark, Just now I have finish watching your last video of how to make solar generator. I am very impress the way you explain it. i have watch so many videos to learn to make it but no one explain it like the way you did. now I have full confidence that i can make it. I am really thankful to you for making these detail videos. I have one question. Can I charge this battery unit with my car cigarette charger while traveling and long driving. If not then can you please explain how can I charge with 12v cigarette charger. I will really appreciate that. Again thanks a lot for these videos. Great job. Aslam Molani

Thanks Aslam! I am glad it has been helpful. Yes, you can definitely use the 12v cigarette port as a way to charge the solar generator. They make double ended 12v cigarette / accessory connectors for this kind of purpose. Here is one that looks like it would be good: http://amzn.to/2CZtC8Z The solar generator unit can also recharge the car battery in the same way, or greatly extend the cars battery life when being used while the vehicle is not running. The water / electricity analogy is a good way to explain how this works. When the solar generator is connected to the car battery, which ever side’s battery has the highest pressure (voltage) will push water (current) through the wires into the other battery, until eventually the pressure (voltage) is equal / balanced on both sides. Once the voltage on both sides is balanced, all current flow will stop and they can remain connected indefinitely. If either side experiences a load and begins to drop voltage, the other side will begin charging again until once again the voltage on both sides is balanced. Hope this makes sense!

Hi Mark, I am building my generator and my switches to the flood light work great. However, my digital voltage reader is not coming on even though my sub and my cigarette lighter work. What is causing this problem?

Hi Hans, It sounds like you may have a defective volt guage if your wiring is correct. Since you have power at the USB and 12v aux outlet, we know your switch is working and that you have power to that point. Double check that your crimps are tight, and that the and – wires are not reversed on the back of the volt gauge. If all checks out there, I would suspect it is defective. If you happen to have an DMM / voltage meter, I would also double check for voltage at the guage terminals as well to be sure.

I’ve been searching for hours on this topic and finally found your post. totosite, I have read your post and I am very impressed. We prefer your opinion and will visit this site frequently to refer to your opinion. When would you like to visit my site?

I am currently in the wiring process of this project. Unless I missed it somewhere, I didnt see or hear what you did with the wires coming from the battery charger… I am not electronicly minded so I am having to start and stop your video over and over again during this process. It’s a little tighter with the 3000 watt but everything fit. For those like me building one that doesnt have the heavy duty crimpers, I took my cables to a local car and audio and the kid just soldered them in. Any suggestions on the charger wires would be appreciated Mark. Thank you again for the great video.

Hi Matt, The wires from the charger lead to one of the tabs on the fuse block and the negative bus bar. This ultimately connects it to the battery, but ensures that is is fused. I wired both the AC battery tender / charger and the Solar Charge Controller in the same way. This is in the Part 4 video, starting at about 12:20. Having a local car audio installer help with the large crimps was a good idea. I am surprised they didn’t mechanically crimp the wires first before soldering though, as this would provide a better electrical connection, as well as reduce chance of wires pulling out. You can also use a vise to partially crimp these, and or use a metal punch and hammer to smash a divot into the side of the crimp to help clamp the wires inside. Good luck with the rest of the build!

Hello. Just wondering if this unit can be charged with a thermal electric unit for a wood stove also ?

Man I’m really glad I built mine. Shortly after we had this major fire in Fallbrook ca. Took mine with me when I had to bug out! Keep charged with hotel power in case I need it when I got back to the house. Plus I was ready for brown out with my portable light. One thing I found out was, to read the charge % the solar quick connect cord needed to be connected, but no the panel. Thank for the build.

Hi Rick, I would love to see them. There isn’t a way to upload photos in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев here, but if you go to the forum section, you should be able to create a post and upload photos there.

https://wwwcom/don.francis.58/posts/10215436482771840. Finished mine with some twists of my own. Salvage make plug end for panel quick connect/disconnect.

I’m currently putting the pieces together for my first dyi solar generator. Of all the videos I’ve watched your’s are definitely some of the most helpful, thanks for putting these out there. One question, my inverter states that you should never mount it near the battery as a spark could ignite the off gas. I am using sealed batteries but now I’m worried:). It looks like a lot of people do it this way, so I’m wondering if the risk is very minimal? Thoughts? Thanks.

Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge? It can support AC 110V/220V pure sine wave output and solar input. It can support DC QC3.0 and type-c PD. It can power up various electronic and electrical devices. It is rechargeable,versatile,noiseless,portable for home outage/outdoor/emergency.

For Chris Dresser I’m assembling the components to build this system in Vieques. I found no components readily available in Puerto Rico. Comment here and I can let you know my process for acquisition. Amazon will deliver some. Maybe I can get you contact info through the administrator

I already sent a few less rugged but lithium solar generators to PR. The only issue I found was getting batteries shipped. Shoot me an email if you want dettails.

Hello Mark, Great videos, I just wanted to know why not use Lithium Ion batteries? They’re lighter, more reliable, and requires less time to charge compared to lead acid batteries.

While I think everyone can use the type of batteries they prefer, I still go with lead acid batteries for now, since they have a longer track record, lower initial cost, are widely available, easier to recycle, and less specific about their operating conditions. It just comes down to individual preferences for a given application.

Any interest in lifepo4 batteries portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge? It can support AC 110V/220V pure sine wave output and solar input. It can support DC QC3.0 and type-c PD. It can power up various electronic and electrical devices. It is rechargeable,versatile,noiseless,portable for home outage/outdoor/emergency.

Mark, Great videos! I’m considering building one for emergency backup power. Ice storms are a threat here but I don’t like the idea of relying on a generator and gasoline. I have a new furnace and am concerned about the quality of power. Any thoughts on running furnaces and HE gas fired water heaters. Is a pure sine wave inverted required? Simple substitution but pricey. The inverter link to Amazon is pulling up a smaller unit.

Hi my name is Juan I Built your solar generator tu use in Puerto Rico and It’s work fantastic thanks I would like to ask too you too show me how to install 2 panels to the System

To Juan Martinez, I lived for over 8 years in PR, and am getting ready to go back soon. I am interested in bringing a bunch of these (as many as I can) to Borinken and Vieques, and I’ve been in discussions with some friends with a solar power company about building a solar generator along the lines of these ones, with parts that are readily available on the island now. Would you have any insight into what the availability is in PR for the components needed to build this design. I am wondering if I will need to bring a container load of components, or if I could just find the parts there? What do you think? Do you know anything about the current availability of these parts needed on the island? Will Amazon even deliver to PR? At any rate, good luck to you and your family.

Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

I need a solar generator for our home so my mom’s oxygen will run in a power shortage. Would you make one of these and sell it? If so, how much?

I have one I made the exact same way and it includes 1 – 100watt solar panel. That should run your moms machine. I can sell You that one. I can send you pictures. Let me know. Justin. 941-320-9386 I live in Florida.

Hey Pat. I can also custom make yours to the way you want it. This is what I do because I am a disabled vet with nothing to do so I make these boxes to sell. I have not made a website yet but I will customize the box however you want. Let me know. My email is [email protected]

I’m sorry to keep bothering you. Is it possible to link two or more of these together? I have been reading the other Комментарии и мнения владельцев and know already that for my application I’ll need a pure sine wave inverter, but I’m not sure how to link the gennies to each other. Thanks

Thanks for all the great questions / Комментарии и мнения владельцев guys. Sorry I was out of town for a couple weeks and was backed up on the day job as well. I am doing my best to keep up with the questions / emails I get but I am definitely backlogged. I will answer as many as I can, but I don’t know all the answers either! Feel free to chime in and help others if you know an answer to a question. It is my hope to make this site / forum community based in the future. I would love to have great useful content from lots of perspectives and backgrounds!

Hi I’m new to this but setting up off grid and was looking for a way to have quiet power without an entire field of panels. I love this idea and an going to do it. One question – how would i hook a wind turbine in the mix? I know your product is portable but I’ll have mine stationary\fixed. Here in Maine, wind is a must in the winter. Thank you for your fabulous instruction and saving one old vet a ton of !

Sure! Just set up your wind turbine to charge the battery as you would with a dedicated wind system. Both the solar and wind turbine will contribute to recharging the batterys. You might even be able to wire the wind turbine into the same charge controller, but I am not sure on that one. It will depend on how much voltage / current the wind turbine can produce.

Hi Mark, Great tutorial! Looks like Amazon no longer offers that inverter. Your link brings up a Krieger 1500. You can’t get it from the Krieger site either (http://www.kriegermfg.com/product/kr3000/). I found it on another site about 410 shipping. Is that in the correct price range? Thanks,

I have an Electric golf cart with 4 12-volt batteries already. Can I utilize those batteries to running household items – as well as recharge it via the solar panel? Thx

You can definitely use the batteries as long as you have them wired in parallel for a 12v system. The components I used are all geared for a 12v system, not 24v, 48v, etc. you may also need to keep them upright and in a ventilated enclosure depending on the battery construction / chemistry.

Hi Mark, thanks for all of the time and effort you put into this. I am going to build one of these but had a few 25ft 4ga jumper cables laying around that I was thinking of using as the power cable from the panels to the generator (I believe you are using a 25ft 12ga wire). I know that 4ga is overkill for this application, but do you see any reason that a jumper cable couldn’t be used for this (ie. insulation, resistance, etc.)? Also, I have some surplus lithium battery packs laying around from a previous project (wired in 12v packs totaling ~120ah/1.4kwh @ ~18lbs) that I was thinking of using in lieu of lead acid. If wouldn’t mind, do you mind shooting me an email?

Hi, This is a fantastic video. I like that you published a video showing it’s capabilities powering some tools. What kind of results have you had powering other things? Fridge, fans, etc. Thanks

Hi, This is a fantastic video. I like that you published a video showing it’s capabilities powering some tools. What kind of results have you had peering other things? Fridge, fans, etc. Thanks

Hi Mark, I really need you help. Could you send me a phone number or email address to contact you. Please just send it to my email address so I can get some information from you. I hope this finds you in the best of health and spirits, Chic

I was wondering how you were providing ventilation for the unit. Does it get hot after the inverter has been running for a while?

Haven’t had any issues with heat / ventilation yet. Most of the high current / power uses I needed are intermittent so the unit doesn’t get too hot. The inverter will shut down if it overheats before any damage occurs, but this has never happened to me so far. If it ever does, I plan to just open the case and let it breathe!

This is the charger I have decided to use. 3A maintainer charge, 15A fast charge. It is definitely bigger but I have the space since I am using a bigger case. Mounting will be more complex but shouldn’t be too hard. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-15-Amp-Battery-Charger/563031222

Iv gotten mine pretty wrapped up. Still Waiting on my VMAX 135ah battery to Come in but everything looking ok on tests so far. I was able to fit the krieger 3000 watt as well as a Reliable 2500 watt pure sine as a back up in my pelican 1650 case. It’s not wired but can be in a matter of minutes. In event of any EMP type event I want a back up. Il likely keep an extra charge controller inside as well. I was very meticulous with wire management and used auto wire conduit for management and organization. One other major difference for my case is a 1/2″ piece of plywood I mounted with construction adhesive to act as a base for hardware mounting. I just didn’t want fasteners showing on the outside for waterproofing and aesthetics. Shoot me an email or send me yours and il send some pics.

Hi Mark, Love your video. Followed it but made some modifications. Question, I have 2k watt pure sign wave inverter per manufacturer, suggests it must be grounded. I read somewhere it doesn’t have to be because it’s under 5 kilowatts will be used indoors(garage) while portable 100watt panels will be in the backyard. The argument is how can it be called portable if it’s grounded. Your thoughts?

Hello Mark, great project and presentation. I am in the process of replicating it with some modifications (2 100W panels, MPPT charge controller, 2 Optima BlueTop batteries) I was wondering if it would make sense for efficiency purposes to configure it as 24V (panels, charge controller, batteries) and then step it down to 12V with a transformer like this https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01LY8D7U0. Any thoughts on this? Thank you much, Martin

Hi Martin, That is an interesting question. I am not certain but I would think that stepping 24v down to 12v to power a 12v inverter would be less efficient (due to the conversion loss through the 24v-12v converter) than using the same two batteries in parallel (so they are running at 12v) would be to power the same 12v inverter. Now with that said, I have heard 24v AC inverters have an efficiency edge over the 12v ones. Although they are less common, would always need 24v, and you would have to find one that fits for your application. Let me know what you end up using and how it works out!

Hello Mark! I have a pretty urgent question of you if you don’t mind! I am building one of these this week (absolutely incredible tutorial by the way!). Anyway for an event I’m helping out with this weekend, I need to have 2kW consistent power over the course of 9 hours. I know its a lot and I’m struggling to find a way to make it work. At this point I have ordered, piece for piece, your recommended items with only a few changes. Essentially my question is, how many batteries (same model as yours), do I need to put in parallel and how many panels should I have to reach this requirement. Is it even possible? Your quickest response would be greatly greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jonah

Hi Jonah, I just saw your question. That’s a tough one to answer as there are a lot of variables. When you say 2kw consistent over 9 hours, do you mean they will be actually using 2kw of load the entire time? If so, that’s going to take a pretty big system. The batteries will be draining down pretty quick with that size of a load. It would take 20 of these 100w panels to produce 2kw in full direct sunlight. That is the lot of power!

Hi Mark. Thank you for posting an awesome tutorial for making these generators. I’m very excited about doing this project. which will be quite a new experience for me, but feel absolutely positive by your videos that I can do this. Lol I do have a question on batteries. I noticed that some of the high end made generators have the Lithium Iron batteries used. I know that they are less in weight and get more charges. but is there anything else I should know? If they are good to use. can you recommend one that holds a lot of power. This is all very new to me so I’d appreciate any wisdom and advice. Thnx… Tommie

Hi Tommy, I am confident you can build it too! Yes, Lithium Ion batteries are much lighter and that is why most cordless power tools have switched over to them. They discharge at a much steadier voltage as well, but need additional electronics to monitor and protect them from overcharge and discharge. They are also more expensive, but another issue to check into before jumping over to them, is most solar charge controllers do not work well with them. I have not fully researched this side of things, because I wanted to keep the budget for the build within reach for more people.

Mark, I attempted to send you and email yesterday, July 30 after inhaling your 6 videos. WOW! I am in AWE of your creativity, style and neatness. Do you respond to emails?

Hi Joseph, no not currently, but I do go over every single connection in the wiring video. I may add a full schematic later but haven’t yet.

Nice work Mark, I watched the video and surprisingly, I was able to follow along with everything you were saying I’m fixing to build one of these myself. There’s only one thing that I am thinking about changing and I’d like to get your feedback if possible. I am thinking about upgrading the non-solar charger from the listed 1.5A charger to a 7.2A charger shown here: http://a.co/4TSwToB Stephen Harris from battery1234.com says: “Harris Tip #4 Under NO circumstances would I go lower than a 6 amp battery charger. DO NOT buy 1 or 2 amp ‘trickle chargers’ EVER. They are not intelligent and they usually end up destroying a battery PLUS they NEVER have the ability to bring a discharged battery back up” The NOCO Genius G7200 12V/24V 7.2A UltraSafe Smart Battery Charger is a bit pricier, heavier and not as mount friendly, but I think it might provide a good option for AC charging. As someone who has actually built this thing, and thus has more experience with it than I do, do you forsee any problems coming from this substitution. Thanks again!

Hi Chris, glad you liked the videos! The alternate AC charger you selected looks like a good product, and should work fine also. It is pricier, like you pointed out, but if you plan to recharge your batteries by plugging into existing AC a lot, it will recharge faster due to the higher output current. I am going to have to disagree with the guy you quoted stating that any 1 or 2 amp charger will destroy the battery. The product I used in the video is absolutely designed to be able to be connected all the time, and will not overcharge the battery. It is indeed automatic and will “float” the battery once it is fully charged. It currently has 4.5 out of 5 stars based on 623 reviews, so I cannot believe it destroys batteries. But the one you link is also good, and if a faster recharge rate is what you are looking for, give it a try! Good luck with the build!

Having a hard time seeing all of the info on how to build one. Due you have any other way to see the info

Sources:

https://www.outdoorlife.com/gear/best-solar-generators/?amp
https://shopsolarkits.com/blogs/learning-center/can-a-solar-generator-power-a-well-pump
https://4patriots.com/products/patriot-power-generator-1800
https://www.modernsurvivalists.com/how-to-build-a-2000-watt-solar-generator-part-1/

Can a Solar Generator Power a Well Pump. 220 solar generator

The Best Solar Generators of 2023, Tested and Reviewed

How I Tested the Best Solar Generators

Solar Panels Tested

Power Stations Tested

Best Overall: Jackery Solar Generator 1000 Pro (Explorer 1000 Pro Solar Saga 200W)

Best Budget: Anker 555 Solar Generator (555 PowerHouse with Two (2) 625 Solar Panels 100W)

Most Portable: BioLite BaseCharge 1500 Solar Panel 100

Best Customization: Goal Zero Yeti 1500X Boulder 200 Briefcase Solar Generator

Can a Solar Generator Power a Well Pump?

Solar Generators to Run a Well Pump

Why Would You Install a Solar Generator?

What Kind of Well Pumps Are Out There?

Submersible Pump

Jet Pump

Centrifugal Pump

AC DC Water Pumps

AC Pumps

DC Pumps

How Many Solar Panels Does a Water Pump Need?

The Best Solar Generators for Running a Well Pump

EcoFlow River Max

Titan 3,000 W Solar Generator

Conclusion

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Solar Panel Generator FAQs

Updated 2022: How To Build A DIY Solar Generator (3,000 Watt) – Part 1

Introduction

Solar Generator Build – Quick Links

Main Components for our Solar Generator

Rugged Pelican Case 1620

Kreiger 3000W / 6000W Peak AC Inverter

Renogy 100 Watt Solar Panel Charger Kit

EcoWorthy 100AH LifePO4 Battery

Main Components for the DIY Solar Generator

Additional Components Supplies

Tools You May Need (if you don’t already have!)

Testimonials

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