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Best Solar Generator: 10 Models Reviewed That Work Great. Okmo 2000w solar generator

Best Solar Generator: 10 Models Reviewed That Work Great. Okmo 2000w solar generator

    Best Solar Generator: 10 Models Reviewed That Work Great

    There are over 200 results for solar generators on Amazon alone – and most of them look great on paper. But which one is right for you? If you choose the wrong one, you might end up frying your new 1800 iPhone, or worse, end up with a lemon that simply doesn’t work.

    We’ve done the research. And the testing. We want to help you find the best solar generator for YOUR purpose. Whether it’s for camping trips in your RV or home emergency use; we’ve got you covered.

    And a quick browse of our buying guide will show you how to understand the technical details, and what to ignore.

    The 10 best solar generators in 2023

    • Super portable at 5.6 lbs, but still has a lot of battery (222Wh)
    • Can power several small electronics simultaneously
    • Can’t be used while it’s charging
    • 1000W power with 1002Wh battery is enough for most appliances
    • 22 lbs weight makes it easy to carry while camping
    • Slower charging speed than others (8 hours)
    • 3000W inverter is the most powerful in its category – can run all home appliances
    • 2000Wh battery can be expanded up to 12000Wh (and 2000W solar input) – best for home emergency power
    • At 67 lbs (with one battery), it’s too heavy to carry anywhere
    • Fastest charging time – XStream technology takes only 1.6 hours till 100%
    • 13 output ports – you can charge all your devices together
    • Solar input charges quite slowly (6 hours)
    • Portable and easy to set up and use – perfect for CPAP machines
    • 5W wireless charger makes it easy to charge your phone
    • Can’t be used for more power-hungry devices
    • Large 1500Wh battery at an affordable price
    • Features all the necessary charging ports and a 1000W pure sine inverter
    • At 37.9 lbs, it’s not very portable
    • Massive 3024Wh battery and 2000W inverter is best in price range
    • Has wheels and a handle to roll around easily
    • Very slow charging time
    • Portable, and offers 400W of power at affordable price
    • In-built flashlight helps navigate while camping
    • Battery can be unreliable at times
    • Lightest generator (3.75 lbs) but still packs a lot of power
    • Great for charging electronics while on the go
    • Slow charging time

    We’ve spent several hours researching solar generators, exploring features, and testing some of the models out ourselves. Here are our in-depth results to aid your search.

    Goal Zero Yeti 1500X Portable Power Station – Top Pick

    • Power: 2000W
    • Capacity: 1500Wh
    • Weight: 45.6 lbs (20.7 kg)
    • Battery Type: Li-ion NMC (10.8V, 140.4Ah)
    • Charging Time: 3 Hours (via 600W adapter), or 4 Hours (via 4x200W Boulder solar panels)
    • Output Ports: 2 AC, 2 USB-A, 2 USB-C, 1 6mm, 1 12V Car, 1 12V Power Pole

    The Goal Zero Yeti 1500X solar generator is our top pick because it features a massive battery capacity, a large power output, a ton of ports to connect all your devices, and a sturdy, reliable build in a portable format.

    All that means that you’ll spend less time charging it and more time using it. With its versatility, it’ll be useful in any situation you need it for.

    Goal Zero has certainly made a name for itself over the past decade with its innovative products, such as the popular Yeti 400 and 1400. This new model is a significant upgrade over them, so you get better features for the same money.

    The new Yeti features a 2000W AC inverter (with a 3500W surge) that can power almost anything you connect to it. Including a hairdryer, a circular saw, or even a microwave.

    The large 1500Wh capacity can run a full-sized refrigerator for over 28 hours. Even if you connect a variety of devices (phones, laptops, cameras, and small appliances), you can get a day’s worth of energy from it – enough for any camping trip.

    What makes Goal Zero products unique is their Wi-Fi integration – you can monitor and control the device’s power consumption remotely from your phone. This means you’ll never have to worry about the battery running out unexpectedly.

    If you need even more power than this model, you can check out the Yeti 6000X, which is good enough to run an entire home for more than a day. Or, if you want something more portable for going out, you can also check out the Yeti 500X.

    If you pair this with four 200W Boulder solar panels, you can get it charged up in just 4 hours that’s ridiculously fast. The included 120W wall adapter can charge it up in 14 hours, but you can opt for a 600W charger to charge it in just 3 hours instead.

    Ready for the best part? You can charge and use it simultaneously! You might never run out of electricity again – as long as the Sun is shining.

    And the integrated MPPT charge controller ensures you get maximum efficiency from solar power. Plus, this has a pure sine wave inverter that’ll offer clean, reliable energy to all your devices and prevent any malfunctions.

    If you really want the best of the best, we can’t recommend the Goal Zero Yeti 1500X enough. This is simply the best portable power station you’ll get for your dollar’s worth.

    FlashFish 300W Solar Generator – Budget Pick

    • Power: 300W
    • Capacity: 222Wh
    • Weight: 5.6 lbs (2.5 kg)
    • Battery Type: Li-ion
    • Charging Time: 5-6 Hours (via 15V/4A adapter), or 8 Hours (via 50W solar panel)
    • Output Ports: 2 AC, 2 DC, 3 USB-A

    We like the FlashFish 300W solar generator for the pure value you get from this little unit. It’s budget-friendly, super portable, and you can get a surprisingly long draw time from a single charge.

    While you aren’t going to get days of power out of this small device, you can use it with a mini-fridge for up to seven hours with its 222 Watt-hour capacity.

    You can power laptops, phones, a TV, a CPAP machine, an outdoor projector, or pretty much anything within a power usage of 300 Watts.

    What’s best about this thing is that it weighs just 5.6 lbs, so it’s really easy to carry it wherever you go. This is perfect for small camping vans where you just need some juice to keep your electronics running, and combos expertly with the best portable solar panels.

    This solar generator has three USB-A ports for charging a few electronics at once, as well as two three-pronged AC outlets. The built-in safety guards protect sensitive devices from over-voltage, and a cooling fan prevents overheating.

    The manufacturer recommends an 18V/50W solar panel (that does not exceed 100 watts) to charge this device (which needs to be bought separately). Charging it with a solar panel can take up to 8 hours or more, but using the adapter can charge it within 6 hours.

    Now, it’s worth noting that this device can’t be charged and used at the same time (disappointing, I know). But with the value you’re getting at such a low price, it’s still worth it.

    There aren’t a lot of small and portable solar generators that offer such reliable energy on a budget. If you’re looking to get a great solar generator without breaking the bank, this is our most recommended option.

    Jackery Explorer 1000 Portable Power Station – Best For Camping

    • Power: 1000W
    • Capacity: 1002Wh
    • Weight: 22 lbs (10 kg)
    • Battery Type: Li-ion NMC (21.6V, 46.4Ah)
    • Charging Time: 7 Hours (via AC adapter) or 8 Hours (via 2x100W SolarSaga solar panels)
    • Output Ports: 3 AC, 2 USB-C, 1 USB-A, 1 USB-A QC 3.0, 1 Car

    The Jackery 1000 Watt solar generator is powerful, robust, and efficient. Best of all, it’s really easy to carry when you’re going on a camping trip. You can just pop it in the trunk of your car and take it anywhere you like. And it can power all your essential devices for more than a day.

    The 1000W inverter can’t run energy-hungry devices like hair dryers or microwaves, but it can recharge all your electronic devices like mobile phones and laptops with ease. And it’ll keep the mini-fridge running too.

    The battery can be recharged in just 7 hours via the AC adapter, or you can get two 100W SolarSaga solar panels that’ll get it charged in under 8 hours. You can even charge it using your car outlet. It’s not the fastest charging in the market, but it preserves the battery life for longer.

    The Jackery comes with a range of outlets to connect all your devices, including a QuickCharge USB 3.0, two USB-C, and three 110V AC ports with pure sine-wave inverters (with a remarkable efficiency of 84%).

    This means that all your devices get clean energy, so there won’t be any malfunctions due to improper electricity. Plus, the DC outputs provide maximum efficiency.

    This entire unit comes in a rugged, heavy-duty plastic box with a matte finish. It’ll certainly survive some rough usage. Here’s what Luke from The Outdoor Gear Review says about this product (1):

    This is by far the best power station I’ve used for off-the-grid living, surviving in the wild, overlanding, and prepping.

    What separates the Jackery from other products is that, despite the rugged design and large battery, it still remains very portable at a weight of just 22 pounds.

    And if you don’t need something as large as this, you can also check out the Jackery 500W variant, which weighs just 13 lbs.

    Simply put, this is THE best solar generator for camping.

    But, the fair price of this unit combined with the durable build quality, high capacity, low noise, and the ability to use it while charging makes it a worthwhile investment for anyone.

    Add to that a 30-day return policy and a 2-year warranty, and you’ve got a solid product that can be used in the roughest of terrains. Even if anything goes wrong, you’ll get a new unit sent to you.

    Titan By Point Zero Energy – Best For Home Emergency Use

    • Power: 3000W (peak 6000W)
    • Capacity: 2000Wh (per battery)
    • Weight: 32 lbs 35 lbs (per battery) (30.4 kg)
    • Battery Type: Li-ion (29.4V) (Expandable)
    • Charging Time: 4 Hours (via AC adapter), or up to 2000W of solar input
    • Output Ports: 6 AC, 4 DC, 6 USB-A, 2 USB-C, 1 Car

    Point Zero Energy’s Titan is one of the new kids on the block, but it’s already picked up a lot of attention. This unit is a beast of a solar generator, with the highest power rating we’ve seen yet, combined with a massive battery that can be removed and expanded.

    The Titan features a 3000W pure sine wave inverter – the best available on the market. This unit can power microwaves, fridges, hairdryers, and most of your household appliances in the event of a power cut (or even armageddon!) (2).

    And with the 2000Wh capacity per battery, you can chain up to 6 batteries together for a total capacity of 12000Wh! That’s enough to last you for days. Note that to use the full 3000W power, you should have at least two batteries.

    Add to that a maximum solar input of 2000W, and you can keep this beast running forever. And what’s more? You can charge it via the AC adapter, solar panels, and a car port all together for maximum efficiency. Here’s what DIY solar expert Will Prowse said about this product (3):

    People should be buying this because it has everything that we want. 2000W input, 3000W inverter, and a huge battery that you can scale.

    This is not a portable unit, however. Its all-metal chassis is built to last and weighs 32 pounds. And each battery you add on top adds another 35 lbs to it. But at least you know that it’ll survive as long as you will.

    The pure sine wave inverter along with the regulated DC outputs ensure that all your devices get absolutely clean energy. The 13.8V rating on the DC ports is also the best in this class.

    Point Zero Energy also sells an EMP-proof cover for this generator, so even if a nuclear bomb or some other EMP device went off – this generator will continue working. Talk about being apocalypse-ready!

    If you’re a prepper looking for the best solar generator for home emergency use and backup during a power cut, this is the one you need. Honestly, it’d probably survive the apocalypse too. It’s an expensive investment, but it’s definitely going to pay for itself in the long run.

    EcoFlow DELTA Power Station – Best Charging Time

    • Power: 1800W (peak 3300W)
    • Capacity: 1260Wh
    • Weight: 30.9 lbs (14 kg)
    • Battery Type: Lithium-ion (50.4V,
    • Charging Time: 1.6 Hours (via AC adapter), or 4-8 Hours (via 4x110W solar panels)
    • Output Ports: 6 AC, 4 USB-A, 2 USB-C, 1 Car

    The EcoFlow Delta is one of those solar generators that’s garnered a lot of attention recently – mostly because of its insanely fast charging times. This thing can charge a massive 1260Wh battery in just 1.6 hours. That’s way faster than anything else on the market right now.

    That means when you’re in a hurry, you’ll be able to charge this up quickly and get back to work. For camping trips, this is super useful as it’ll save you a lot of time.

    And the 1800W inverter can easily provide power to most of the electronic devices that you use regularly. A fridge, microwave, 5-6 mobile phones, or even a welding machine.

    It has 6 AC outlets, 4 USB-A ports, 2 USB-C ports, and a 13.6V car port. That means it can simultaneously power 13 devices! So you can use all your devices in the event of a power cut.

    The digital display on the front of the EcoFlow Delta is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s easy to read and accurately gives you information regarding the current power draw and the estimated time that it’ll run, so you won’t be caught unaware when the battery runs out.

    But we should note one drawback here. While it charges extremely fast using an AC adapter, it only accepts 400W of solar input, so it still takes over 4 hours to charge with solar energy.

    This unit weighs 30.9 lbs, so it’s not the most portable machine here. But, with the wealth of features onboard alongside the big battery, it’s definitely worth carrying this around when you need it.

    It’s also one of the quietest generators around, with ambient noise levels of roughly 35-45 dB. So it won’t disturb your sleep if you’re using it at night.

    Whether you want a power source for your RV or a reliable emergency backup to power your fridge and lights at home during a blackout, the EcoFlow Delta is certainly a worthwhile investment. With the fastest charging time that we’ve seen on any device, you’ll be able to spend more time doing what you love.

    BALDR Portable Power Station

    • Power: 330W
    • Capacity: 293Wh
    • Weight: 7.1 lbs (3.2 kg)
    • Battery Type: Li-ion (86.5 Ah, 3.6V)
    • Charging Time: 5-6 Hours (via wall charger), or 6-8 Hours (via 100W solar panel)
    • Output Ports: 1 AC, 2 DC, 3 USB-A, 1 USB-C, 1 Car

    The BALDR portable solar generator is another fantastic budget option for users that need something simple. It’s lightweight (at just 7.1 pounds), easy to use, and includes some pretty nifty features that aren’t commonly found in this price range.

    This unit has a pure sine-wave inverter with a rating of 330W – which is enough to recharge and power your small electronic devices like phones and laptops, and run some simple appliances like lights as well. Since it offers clean power, you can use this with a CPAP machine too.

    The 293Wh capacity can keep this running for over 6 hours at moderate usage. And with a CPAP machine, this can run for several days. Plus, the LED screen is helpful in letting you know how much battery is left.

    You only need an MC4 cable connected to a solar panel to get it up and running properly. You can use any 50-100W solar panel with this, but it’s recommended to use TogoPower panels.

    The charge time on this is about 6 hours with a wall charger, and 6-8 hours using a 100W solar panel. Note that the input on this is limited to 52W.

    Though this unit is small, it’s got all the necessary ports – 1 AC, 2 DC, 3 USB-A (with QuickCharge 3.0), 1 USB-C, and a car outlet as well. And the DC ports can be used even when the device is being charged (but not the AC ports).

    Plus, it’s got a 5W wireless charger on top for your phone too. That means you can charge all your electronics together in the event of a power outage.

    Don’t expect to power blenders, coffee makers, hairdryers, electric kettles, or other devices over 330W with this generator. However, you can still run a mini cooler, 32” TV, and emergency lighting.

    If you’re looking for another affordable portable power station, then the BALDR 330W might be the one for you. With a remarkable battery capacity and a slew of advanced features, this unit stands out as a real ‘value for money’ product.

    MAXOAK BLUETTI EB150 Portable Power Station

    • Power: 1000W
    • Capacity: 1500Wh
    • Weight: 37.9 lbs (17.2 kg)
    • Battery Type: Li-ion (14.8V)
    • Charging Time: 9-10 Hours (via 160W AC adapter), or 3-4 Hours (via 500W solar panel)
    • Output Ports: 2 AC, 4 USB-A, 1 USB-C, 1 DC Car port

    The MAXOAK Bluetti EB150 is one of the best options if you want a large battery capacity at an affordable price. It’s a direct competitor to the Jackery 1000, with all the necessary ports, a larger battery, and a pure sine wave inverter as well.

    This unit supports a high-load, continuous output of up to 1000W, so it can easily power energy-hungry appliances like small microwaves, blenders, and hair dryers (as long as they fall within the 1000W range).

    The 1500Wh battery is the best that you’ll get at this price too. You can power a standard refrigerator for a couple of days with this! When you experience a blackout for more than a day, you’ll be thankful for this eco-friendly generator (4).

    With ample power and more prolonged use, overheating could be a concern. However, this generator has a cooling fan that automatically starts when attached to appliances with over 100 watts. This ensures that it’ll run efficiently in temperatures up to 104°F.

    This solar generator is best for extended use on emergency items, such as appliances like a full-sized fridge, electric drills, emergency lighting, laptops, a TV, and even a CPAP machine.

    You also get a convenient carrying handle and an LCD screen to monitor the amount of power left on the generator.

    If you’re looking for something with even more battery capacity, you can also consider the MAXOAK Bluetti EB240, which features a 2400Wh battery so you can keep everything running even longer.

    This unit takes about 9-10 hours to charge using the supplied 160W wall charger, but if you have a 500W solar panel array like our top-rated kit here, you can get this charged in just under 4 hours in most cases.

    MAXOAK’s customer service is excellent too. For most users, this handy solar generator works reliably well for a long time, with a battery that’s rated for 2500 cycles.

    One of the main drawbacks of this unit is how heavy it is. At nearly 38 pounds, it’s not easy to carry wherever you want to go. But its sturdy build makes it great for keeping at home or in an RV.

    If you’re looking for a powerful solar generator with a large battery backup, the MAXOAK Bluetti line of products is a superb choice. It offers a large battery with a lot of power at an affordable price, making it a great buy for those that need an inexpensive solar generator for home backup power.

    Bluetti AC200P review | 2000W portable power station, 2000Wh LiFePO4 battery | 700W solar charging

    The AC200P comes in a huge box weighing 37kg. A lot of care has been taken with the packaging with a strong outer box with reinforced edges. I found it easiest to open both the outer and inner box and lift the power station out of the inner box.

    As well as the power station, there’s one one of the largest AC adapters I’ve come across and an assortment of charging cables including an XT90 to aviation plug, a car charging cable again with an XT90 connector on one end and an MC4 to XT90 solar charging cable. I’ll discuss all these accessories shortly. These cables can be stored in the supplied drawstring bag. It does the job but I would have expected something a little more premium for the price of this power station. There’s also a user manual and warranty card.

    The power station is well built, made from a mixture of polycarbonate and flame retardant ABS. It feels tough but there’s no rubber bumper like on the smaller AC50S I reviewed a while back and it’ll be easy to scuff the shiny lighter grey trim. And like every power station I’ve reviewed so far there’s no weatherproof rating. But all the ports do have rubber flaps that will at least offer some protection.

    The power station is portable but only just, weighing in at 26.9kg and the AC charger is an additional 1.4kg with its mains lead. You can see the dimensions of the power station and charger on screen. This is not something you’ll be wanting to move around too often. You can just about lift it with one hand, but generally it needs two hands.

    This is the first power station I’ve tested which uses a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) battery. These batteries do weigh more than the usual Lithium Ion batteries I’m used to, but they offer several advantages that more than make up for the extra weight. Most importantly they last longer. Bluetti claims the unit will maintain 80% capacity after 3500 charge / discharge cycles. That’s around 5 times more than the typical 500 cycles of standard Lithium Ion batteries. They also use a more stable and therefore safer chemistry and they’re more environmentally friendly too since they don’t use Cobalt or Nickel.

    The AC200P has a capacity of 2000Wh and has an impressive 2000W AC inverter which can surge to 4800W. Unfortunately the battery is not replaceable. On their website Bluetti provide some examples of what you could run off this power station and how long for but I’ll cover some real life examples shortly when I discuss its performance.

    The left side of the power station has the two charging inputs – the left input with the aviation port is for charging from your car’s 12V output or solar panels. The right port has a 7.9mm DC jack for use with the included mains charger. Above the ports is a fan that sucks in cool air. This cool air passes over the batteries and electronics and there’s an exhaust fan on the right side of the unit to expel this warmed up air.

    From the top left on the front of the unit there’s the aluminium power button – a short press turns the unit on and a long press turns it off. Then there’s a 12V 10A car cigarette outlet, the 10.8cm touch screen display, and two 230V 2000W pure-sine wave AC outlets. The US version has 6 110V AC outlets. Even with our oversized UK plugs it would have been nice to have had at least one or two extra outlets. And the rubber flaps can interfere with some larger plugs. This UK version is branded PowerOak for some reason – in the US it’s branded Bluetti.

    Underneath the power button is a 12V 25A DC output which isn’t something I’ve seen before. But you need the optional aviation to XT60 cable to use it which I did purchase. Then there are two 12V 3A DC 5525 outputs, a 60W USB type-C power delivery output and 4 x 5V 3A USB ports. It’s disappointing not to see 100W power delivery output here for more power hungry devices and it also would have been nice if you could charge via this port too like you can with the Allpowers 500W unit I reviewed recently. The USB-A outputs are a little basic too – they don’t support any of the newer fast charging standards, only Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0 at 5V.

    Unlike nearly every power station I’ve reviewed, there’s no torch on this unit. I would have liked a floodlight like on the smaller AC50S and looking around the power station there appears to be plenty of space to include one. But there are 2 useful 15W Qi wireless charging pads on top of the unit.

    The LCD touch screen can show a wealth of information. The home screen shows remaining battery charge in the middle graphically and as a percentage. The top row shows the date and time and below that the left field labelled PV for Photovoltaic / Car displays the input from solar panels or your car’s DC output. And the right field shows input from the mains charger.

    The next row shows current DC and AC usage in Watts and the DC and AC icons at the bottom have to be tapped to turn on and off DC and AC outputs respectively. Most of the units I’ve tested recently show you how long you have left – either to charge the unit or discharge the unit based on the current input or output wattage. Unfortunately you don’t get that with the AC200P so you’ll have to do the maths yourself.

    But if you tap on any of the input or output icons you do get detailed information, which is particularly useful when charging with solar panels which I’ll come back to.

    Under Settings you can switch between 50Hz and 60Hz, change the DC input mode from solar to car, toggle Eco mode and change the display language. With Eco mode on the unit will shut off the AC power after 4 hours if the output is less than 50W. I’d recommend turning this off if you want to run anything low powered that you want to stay on, like a phone charger or a low powered fridge.

    If you tap on next, you can switch the beeping off and configure the date and time. It’s useful to have this set correctly for the fault logging.

    Under Data you can see the system temperature at the top. Product Info shows the system information and Inverter and Charger Info shows the same information you get tapping the respective icons on the home screen.

    Then there’s information on the Battery Management System under BMS Maintenance and a fault log under Fault History.

    Finally there’s the Faults tab which highlights orange if any faults have been triggered. This defines the 55 different fault codes – and will show any currently recorded faults with an orange check.

    Unfortunately there’s no app to monitor or control the unit which would be particularly useful outdoors where the display is very hard to see – especially in bright sunlight. The small font used on the home screen doesn’t help matters

    Charging

    There are three main ways to charge the AC200P: using the supplied mains charger, using the supplied car charging cable off your car’s 12V cigarette lighter output or using solar panels which you’ll have to purchase separately.

    If you have mains handy, the simplest and most likely quickest way to charge the AC200P is with the AC adapter. This adapter can charge the unit at up to 470W or 58.8V at 8A, so a full charge will take around 4-5 hours. The adapter uses a standard kettle lead and there’s a fan to keep it cool that runs continuously, even after the power station reaches full charge – and it’s quite noisy. The display did show just under 470W and if you tap on the Adapter icon you can see the operating voltage and current too.

    The adapter uses the same 7909 7.9mm plug that Jackery uses but after checking with my bench power supply you need at least 55V output so I can’t use the Jackery 1000’s 180W 24V charger unfortunately.

    The charging speed is decent but I would have preferred direct mains charging like you get on the EcoFlow River Max I reviewed recently which does away with the need for the AC adapter.

    To charge using your car’s 12V outlet you need to change the DC input from PV for solar to Car under Settings. Under this input you can charge at up to 8.2A in the range 11.5V to 14.4V and 23V to 28.8V. You need to use the supplied aviation plug to XT90 adapter and then plug the car charging lead into this. I’ve not seen this aviation plug before and it is a secure and robust connection. But personally I’d have preferred a standard XT90 input built into the unit, which I’ve always found plenty secure enough and is far more common.

    I got the full 8.2A off the car outlet on the EcoFlow River Max – which at 13.5V equates to around 110W. This would charge the unit from flat in around 14-18 hours.

    I also tested this input with the bench power supply. With a 24V supply you can get just under 200W on this port again at 8.2A.

    Switching back to PV mode I tested charging via solar. You must remember to switch back to this mode otherwise you’ll get an over voltage fault.

    Using the AC200P as a solar generator is one its greatest strengths. It can support an input voltage from 35V all the way up to 150V with a maximum current of 12A and there’s a built-in MPPT controller for more efficient solar charging.

    With enough solar panels and good enough conditions you can charge the unit at a maximum of 700W which is very impressive. That could make it possible to charge the unit off solar alone in 3-4 hours. Unfortunately the minimum input voltage of 35V means that in most cases you’ll need at least two solar panels connected in series, which increases the voltage whilst the current remains constant.

    If your solar panels have MC4 connectors it’s easy connecting them in series. You plug the XT90 to MC4 cable into the aviation to XT90 adapter. Then for two panels you connect one solar panel’s red cable to this cable’s red cable and the other panel’s black cable to this cable’s black cable. Then the two loose red and black connectors to each other to complete the circuit. It’s hard to go wrong since the MC4 male and female connectors can only pair with each other. You can add further solar panels in exactly the same way, starting off with the two panels at the end of the array and then matching male and female connectors for the other panels.

    Bluetti recommends a minimum of 3 of their 120W SP120 or 2 of their 200W SP200 solar panels but you can use whatever you have from any manufacturer. I’ve not tried them but this pair of panels on Amazon should work and are pretty cheap if you don’t need a portable solution. And they’re more weather proof than most portable panels.

    Initially I connected together a Bluetti SP120 120W panel, an Allpowers AP-SP-027 100W panel and EcoFlow’s 160W panel.

    On a day with sunny spells in April in the UK I got a maximum of just under 280W off this setup. If you tap on the PV icon you can see the voltage was around 60V and I was getting around 4.5 to 5A.

    So if the conditions stayed the same that configuration would take around 8 hours to fully charge the power station from flat.

    The Bluetti SP120 panel actually failed during this test – a crack suddenly appeared on one of the cells. I contacted their support who offered a replacement without any quibble, but couldn’t offer any explanation of what might have happened.

    When this replacement arrived I used it together with 2 more SP120’s to see how three of these panels compared to my original setup. I got around 250W although with better conditions and more room to arrange the panels I’m sure I could get this higher. When the sun went behind the clouds this dropped to around 170W.

    I briefly reviewed the SP120 panels in my video on the AC50S so please take a look at that if you want more information. I also plan to do a round up of all the solar panels I’ve accumulated – the AC200P will be useful to compare them. So look out for that video hopefully coming soon. I’ll add a link on screen and down below if it’s already out.

    I did try just one panel and although you can see its voltage on the power station, you won’t get anything from it. Two panels provided around 40V and was enough to charge the unit.

    I did try switching again to Car as the input source and connecting one panel via this input since its range appears to cover the output of one solar panel. But although it recognised its input with the voltage displayed, the power stations still didn’t charge. I tried this with the Bluetti SP120 and the Allpowers and Ecoflow panels. Again looking into this with my bench power supply it looks like this input needs 8A of current to charge the unit – so in bright enough conditions with the right single panel you might get this to work.

    You can use both the Car/PV input and the mains input at the same time so with enough solar panels and using mains you could charge the AC200P from completely flat in under two hours at just under 1200W. You could also purchase a second mains adapter and a DC7909 to XT90 cable to use both inputs simultaneously off mains. Even using the 24V car charging input at 200W I was able to speed up charging considerably.

    And although I don’t have a second mains charger, I did use my bench power supply to charge it together with the mains charger at just under 1000W.

    Performance

    I tested the 12V DC outputs with an electronic load tester from Kunkin – the KP184. I’ll have a link down below if you want to test your power station. All these ports are regulated so their output won’t decrease as the battery level depletes.

    You need to turn on the DC subsystem by tapping on the DC icon on the home screen. Starting with the 12V 10A car standard car outlet I wound up the current to the full 10A without any issues – the output on the LCD was around 135W. As I went over 10A the voltage dropped and then the DC output shut off with a DC Output Short Circuit fault not the Over Current fault I would have expected.

    As a more practical example I charged the EcoFlow River Max off this car outlet with just under 110W displayed.

    Moving on to the 2 12V 3A DC5525 ports I was able to increase the current to its 3A limit – around 40W on the display. But anything over did result in an Over Current fault and the DC shut off. When the DC or AC shuts off you need to turn the unit off and on again with the power switch before it lets you turn on DC or AC.

    I also tried plugging in a 12V LED light strip and a Smart battery charger which both worked fine.

    The last 12V output is not something I’ve seen before. It can deliver up to 25A or around 300W but it has an aviation plug socket so you need a special cable to connect anything and this isn’t included. I didn’t find the cable easy to get hold of either and it took a while to arrive.

    It has a female receptacle unlike the male receptacle on the charging port so you can’t just use that cable unfortunately. The cable I ordered has an XT60 connector on the other end and the first thing I tried was using it as a DC power supply for my Hota D6 RC car LiPo charger. This charger is able to draw up to 650W off DC and I could easily max out the 25A port charging two 4S LiPo batteries. It should be more efficient running DC devices directly off DC rather than converting to AC and then back again.

    With the load tester it ran happily at the full 25A drawing over 320W according to the LCD display, although I did find the cable started to get a little warm.

    I did keep increasing the current all the way to just over 28A when the unit shut off with an Over Current fault. But after around 26A the voltage started to drop anyway.

    Moving on to the USB ports which are also operated under the DC subsystem, the USB-C 60W port supports USB Power Delivery at up to 20V and 3A and will power even decent sized laptops and lots of other tech. As I mentioned earlier I would have expected 100W like on the EcoFlow for more power hungry devices like the latest MacBook Pros, and I’d have preferred an extra USB-C port even if it sacrificed a couple of the standard USB ports.

    But it’s still plenty for many devices like this Chromebook and I was able to draw the full 60W charging the Allpowers 500W power station.

    The 4 USB-A ports are still useful and testing them with a load tester I was able to get over the spec’d 3A before the voltage started to drop.

    The AC outlets are really what you purchase a unit like this for and with its built in 2000W inverter which will support a brief surge of 4800W, this is the most powerful unit I’ve tested to date.

    I confirmed their pure sine wave output, which is important for sensitive electronics, with a graphical multimeter.

    I needed to find some fairly hefty equipment to really put this inverter to the test. I started off mowing the lawn with this 1500W Flymo lawnmower which worked fine.

    My Bosch 1800W sliding mitre saw cutting thick oak didn’t overload the power station either, despite peaking at just under 3000W.

    I could also run a 1.1KW portable compressor but my larger workshop compressor was too much and triggered the Inverter Overload fault – which isn’t surprising since it trips its 13A fuse in cold weather. I had the same issue with other stationary woodworking machines in my workshop. My table saw, planer thicknesser and bandsaw all tripped the AC200P.

    Even though they’re all 2KW or less they have induction motors which can draw over 5 times that when they start up which is more than the 4800W surge the AC200P is capable of. But it handled almost every handheld machine I tried including a powerful 2000W router.

    In the house could run both a Nespresso coffee machine and frother simultaneously and I could run a 2KW heater.

    I also tried running a 4 slot toaster which was at the limit of the power station drawing just over 2000W. The AC200P can deliver over 2000W and under 2500W for up to two minutes but will beep continuously to warn you and then does shut off when two minutes is up.

    A kettle was a little too much for it, running at just over 2500W before overloading the power station, but a 1550W hairdryer ran fine and I couldn’t find many more household items that would overload the unit so it could prove very useful in a power cut.

    Unlike the EcoFlow this AC200P doesn’t have a UPS function where it can run off mains directly and then switch to battery in the event of a power outage. But it does support pass-through charging so you could use it in a similar fashion to power essential items whilst plugged into the mains and then the fully charged battery would power these items if the power goes out. This wouldn’t be ideal longer term for battery health but I used it like this to plug in all my broadband and Wi-Fi equipment when we were having regular power cuts recently.

    This may well depend on ambient temperatures but the unit is almost silent up to around 1000W when the fan kicks in. Measuring with a decibel meter 1 metre away I measured around 36dB background noise which jumped to around 42dB when the fans first turned on. When you get over around 1400W the fans increased in volume to a much more noticeable 52dB. You can hear how noisy the fans are in the accompanying video. But it’s good to know you could have it running lower powered devices overnight camping or in a campervan without hearing the power station. Although I couldn’t see any way of turning off the display or the green LED circling the power button when the unit is on, which could be distracting if you’re sleeping nearby. And with no accompanying app this is not a feature that can be simply added as a firmware update.

    Finally I measured the capacity of the unit both using DC and AC. The claimed capacity is 2000Wh but the manual does state that the Depth Of Discharge is 10% – so the unit will power off with 10% of battery remaining to protect the battery. Also taking into account the efficiency of the unit which the manual specifies as 88% we should be able to get at least 2000 x 0.9 x 0.88 = 1584Wh of usable capacity.

    First I ran the test off DC with the load tester set at 15A connected to the 12V 25A port. The capacity of the battery is displayed on the Kunkin load tester in Wh but the display resets back to zero at 1000Wh so you can see the final measured capacity is 1544Wh which is very close to the value we estimated.

    I also measured the capacity with an AC load running a 2KW heater at half power at around 970W. I used an energy monitoring plug and measured 1904Wh. We should get less capacity under AC due to inverter losses so I imagine the monitoring plug is over estimating usage. I did try with another energy monitoring plug and this time got 1808W but this still seems high. These measurements are useful to compare to other portable power stations I’ve tested, but the electronic load tester provides the most accurate measurement so I’d consider 1544Wh the true capacity of the unit.

    During both these tests I ran both the DC 25A and 2000W AC outlets at full power for 20 minutes to check if the power station was capable of running at its full rated DC and AC output continuously, which it was. I also checked the temperature of the unit under this heavy load with a Flir thermal imaging camera and the power station remained remarkably cool.

    Conclusions

    The AC200P is the most powerful power station I’ve tested so far. It will power most household items quite happily and it even ran some pretty heavy machinery in my workshop. It’s worth remembering though that at its maximum 2000W output the sizable 2000Wh battery will still only last just under an hour.

    I’m pleased to finally test a power station with a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) battery which should last a lot longer than your standard Lithium Ion battery. I can’t confirm the battery’s longevity but in my capacity tests it fared well – at least in line with Bluetti’s claims. Although the battery isn’t replaceable and it does contribute to the weight of this power station. It is very heavy which is a real consideration if you need to move this around a lot.

    The touch screen shows a wealth of technical information but it’s not particularly user friendly and there’s some basic information missing like an estimate of remaining usage time based on current output. There’s also no accompanying app which would have been particularly useful considering how difficult it is to read the screen outdoors.

    The most impressive feature of the AC200P is its charging capabilities, particularly off solar. I didn’t have enough solar panels or sun to realise its 700W maximum input off solar, but being able to mix and match whatever solar panels you have makes it very flexible. You could start with 2 or 3 panels and add more panels over time. It’s just a shame that you’ll typically need at least 2 panels to satisfy the power station’s minimum voltage requirements.

    Mains charging is reasonably quick, but it’d be faster and more convenient if you could charge directly off mains without an adapter like you can with EcoFlo’s range. And the included mains adapter is very large and noisy.

    Overall I’d have no trouble recommending the AC200P. The only power station that I have that comes close in spec to the AC200P is the Jackery Explorer 1000. This has around half the output and capacity and has more modest features, but is far more portable at almost a third of the weight of the Bluetti. It really depends on what you need to run, what features you need and how much you can spend although none of these power stations are cheap.

    Don’t forget to take a look at my YouTube video at the top of the page, and subscribe to my YouTube channel where I’m releasing videos every week on the latest technology and how to get the most out of it. If you tap the bell icon when you subscribe you’ll get a notification as soon as I release a video, and there’ll be a link to my site here for the written article. YouTube is also the best place to leave a comment. I read all of them and respond to as many as I can!

    Updated 2022: How To Build A DIY Solar Generator (3,000 Watt) – Part 1

    In this series I will show you how to save money by building your own DIY Solar Generator, with all the same features as the commercial made units. The finished result will be a high quality solar generator with more serviceability and customization options to your own needs than the ready made units.

    Note: The original design of this DIY solar generator used a 2,000 watt inverter. We have upgraded it to the new 3,000 watt model in the latest version along with LifePo4 battery, and other improvements. Before you build the solar generator following our how to plans, be sure to watch the updates video below for the recent changes!

    Introduction

    Solar Generators (also called Solar Powered Generators) are extremely useful tools. I started looking into some of the largest portable solar generator units on the market because the idea of a completely silent generator that can run large power loads while never needing gasoline is a really cool concept. Whether you want to run a portable table saw, or go tailgating / camping where the noise of a standard generator would be irritating, these solar generators are really handy.

    I soon realized I could build my own — getting to pick the components that best match my needs, and even better save approximately half the cost vs buying a manufactured solar generator. This post will show you step-by-step how to build your own weatherproof indoor/ outdoor diy solar generator!

    Solar Generator Build – Quick Links

    After seeing what was available, I found myself wanting to design my own DIY solar generator for many reasons. For one it will be a lot cheaper. Second, I can add several features I wanted to add that are not in to the manufactured units. Finally, because it will be an enjoyable project!

    By building your own, you will learn all about small off-grid solar setups, and also be able to fix the individual components if you ever have problems with it down the road. You can also easily modify the plans to build a permanent style off grid solar power setup for a cabin or camper.

    For comparison, here is a popular manufactured unit. It is nice looking package, and if you don’t care about cost it might be a good option for you, especially if you are not really the maker type.

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    The above unit is priced on the higher end for what you can find on Amazon – but it is a power monster!

    The solar generator I am going to show you how to build will cost half the price, include a 2,000 watt / 4,000 watt peak AC inverter, a 100W solar panel, a high quality true deep cycle AGM battery. I also will add extras, such as integrated LED flood lamps, a high current port for attaching jumper cables, and some others.

    Main Components for our Solar Generator

    I selected the components listed below based on the quality of reviews, as well as price and features suitable for this project.

    Rugged Pelican Case 1620

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    I selected this Pelican 1620 case for our portable solar generator because it is waterproof / weatherproof, has rugged several sturdy handles as well as rolling wheels. My unit will be quite heavy once complete, so I needed something that can take a lot of abuse!

    Here is a picture of mine:

    Kreiger 3000W / 6000W Peak AC Inverter

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    The Kreiger 4,000 watt power inverter should be able to run nearly anything that you could normally power off an standard 15 Amp wall outlet. It also comes with a mountable remote power switch that we will be mounting into the side of our case, as well as heavy 0 Gauge battery cables and main fuse.

    When this post was first created, we used the 2,000 watt unit which is no longer available. The 3,000 and 4,000 watt units install and wire up the same way, although the unit in the videos and photos is the older 2,000 watt version (as shown in my photo below).

    Renogy 100 Watt Solar Panel Charger Kit

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    This kit includes a very high quality Renogy 100 watt monocrystalline solar panel as well as a 30A solar charger that is matched well for our needs. The kit also includes a set of MC4 solar cables for easy install. Here is what mine looks like:

    EcoWorthy 100AH LifePO4 Battery

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    This battery has a built in Battery Management System (BMS), which means it will control the max charging current, prevent overcharge, or over discharge to increase the life of the battery. One other important feature is that the battery can be mounted and used in any orientation, which is important considering our solar generator may get stood upright or laid in different directions during normal use. Here is a picture of mine:

    Main Components for the DIY Solar Generator

    Below is a list of components used in this post and their current Amazon prices.

    Click on ANY image below to see more details on Amazon

    Top Pelican 1620 Case Buy Now
    Krieger 2000 Watts Power Inverter 12V to 110V, Modified Sine Wave Car Inverter, Dual 110 Volt AC Outlets, DC to AC Converter with Installation Kit Included. ETL Approved Under UL STD 458 Buy Now
    Top Renogy Solar Starter Kit Buy Now
    ECO-WORTHY 12V 100AH LiFePO4 3000 Cycle Lithium Iron Phosphate fast charging Battery with BMS, Rechargeable battery for RV, Camping, Marine, Backup power, Solar Home Off-Grid System Buy Now
    Top Schumacher Battery Maintainer Buy Now
    Top NOCO GCP1 15 Amp AC Port Plug Buy Now
    Top Nilight Flood LED Work Light Buy Now
    Top zowaysoon Digital Voltmeter Buy Now

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Additional Components Supplies

    Click on ANY image below to see buying options on Amazon

    Top DIGITEN 19mm Automotive Waterproof Momentary Stainless Steel Metal 12V Blue Power Symbol LED Light Push Button Toggle Switch ON/Off Buy Now
    Top NOT FIT U19D1, 19mm Pigtail, Wire Connector, Socket Plug for U19C1, U19C2 Push Button Switch (Pack of 2) Buy Now
    Top Hubbell-Bell Single-Gang Vertical/Horizontal Weatherproof Universal Flip Cover Buy Now
    Top TOPELE 20Amp GFCI Outlet, 125 Volt Weather-Resistant Receptacle, Indicator with LED Light Buy Now
    Top JEGS Universal Battery Hold Down Buy Now
    Top GG Grand General 55241 Red 14-Gauge Primary Wire, 25 Ft Buy Now
    Top GG Grand General 55240 Black 14-Gauge Primary Wire, 25 ft Buy Now
    Top Orion Motor Tech 2-4 Gauge 175A Battery Cable Quick Connect/ Disconnect Electrical Connector Plug Kit Buy Now
    Top MICTUNING LED Illuminated Automotive Blade Fuse Holder Box 6-Circuit Buy Now
    Top Blue Sea Systems 5 Gang Common 100A Mini Busbar Buy Now
    Top Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker Buy Now
    Top Swordfish Nut, Washer Bolt Assortment, 240 Piece Buy Now
    Top 270 PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connector Kit Buy Now
    Top 25 Foot Lighted Outdoor Extension Cord Buy Now
    Top Prime Wire Cable Cord winder Buy Now
    Top Hopkins 6 Pole Round Vehicle Connector Buy Now
    Top Tow Ready Metal Trailer End 6-Way Flat Pin Connector Buy Now
    Top ABN 120-Piece Standard Fuse Assortment Buy Now
    Top J-B Weld 5 Minute Set Epoxy Buy Now
    Top 4 AWG Gauge Red Black Battery Inverter Cables (You will need 2 sets of these) Buy Now

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Tools You May Need (if you don’t already have!)

    Click on ANY image below to continue shopping on Amazon

    Top Parts Express Automatic Wire Stripper with Cutter Buy Now
    Top TEKTON Phillips, Flat and Star Precision Screwdriver Set, 9-Piece Buy Now
    Top IRWIN VISE-GRIP Wire Stripping Tool / Wire Cutter Buy Now
    Top Hot Glue Gun High Temp-Cobiz Full Size (Not Mini) 60/100W Dual Power Heavy Duty Melt Glue Gun Kit with 10 Pcs Premium Glue Sticks Buy Now
    Top Ridgid 18 Volt 500 Lbs. Torque 1,500 RPM Hyper Lithium Ion Cordless Drill / Driver Kit Buy Now

    Product and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

    pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

    Testimonials

    I just put this same Renogy system in at my cabin in Talkeetna Alaska. I was impressed with the quality and simplicity of the system…1 year later it is still ticking along. So nice to have led lights and phone chargers in a remote location.

    I watched the video and surprisingly, I was able to follow along with everything you were saying I’m fixing to build one of these myself.

    Thanks for the tutorial, I plan to build a solar system using your specifications. I was just curious as to what load your current specifications can handle. I’m planing to build a unit that supports a household of Fridges, A/C units, lighting, TV’s.

    I love the idea and the detailed plans you provided. Thanks so much. I’m going to give this a shot myself.

    Andrew Seltz

    This is a fantastic tutorial presentation. I’ve been considering building a solar generator/battery backup solution for my home (we get many storm related power outages each year.) You have done a very good job planning out the components of your generator and assembling them into a finished kit that looks as good as any I’ve seen advertised for sale.

    I’m planning to tweak the idea and use two panels (hinged together) and 2 batteries in the case which will require either a bigger case or some changes in the included components. I also want to put mine to use running low voltage exterior lighting when not needed for emergency power, so I get double duty from it throughout the year.

    Thanks for the thorough explanation of how to get the project done!

    Hi Mark, excited about this build! We live near Hilton head and after the recent hurricane we started to think about alternative energy during an evening on the patio when the power was out!

    I have a question about your chosen battery. you’re building a large powered unit which I like and main Concern would be to power the refrigerator.

    How did you choose your battery? Why one and not two? I saw on Amazon that the optima battery has 55AH, is this enough to power things for a good length of time (say 2-3 days incase any day is cloudy and for extra).

    I am still learning about electricity, so please bear with my questions.

    Can’t wait for video 3, thank you! Stephan

    Hi Mark, I have thoroughly enjoyed your video tutorials on the solar generator and have been engrossed with buying and locating certain parts. I am curious. A nuclear plant is required to replace rather large batteries every five years even though they have a life-span of 15-20 years. Seem like I could easily recondition a battery or two for my uses. However, they are honkin’ big batteries and I thought I would ask your input. The batteries are GNB Flooded Classic NXT-33 They weight about 400 pounds I believe. BUT they have an amp/hour of 2264. Plugging in the item reveals all.

    If you would like to leave a testimonial, please click here. Thank you!

    2 thoughts on “Updated 2022: How To Build A DIY Solar Generator (3,000 Watt) – Part 1”

    Helllo joy. Just wondering if the system can be recharged by heat from wood stove also with a thermal electric generation unit in case there is no sun to charge solar panel?

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    Can I use this exactly as it is except I would like to add more solar panels and more LiFePO4 batteries? I do not care about being portable. I want to get 1,000 amp hours/12,000 watt hours of storage. I am thinking about eight or more 100 watt solar panels like these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09D7BMBWP And eight LiFePO4 batteries like these: https://smile.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Lithium-Battery-Overland-Applications/dp/B09F2LLMY3 What changes would be necessary?

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    Is it possible that the writer of this doesn’t know the difference between watts (power) and watt hours (capacity)? The battery linked here has a 660 watt hour capacity, and it’s lead acid, which means you can really only use about 40% of that, which leaves you with about 260 watt hours. That’s a fair amount, but it’s a far cry from the high capacity lithium battery based battery packs he’s comparing them to. Also, why use such an old school solar panel? 12 volt solar panels are pretty low power, as is that charge controller. You lose a ton of power using a PWM charge controller. And a 3000 watt inverter is waaaaay over spec’d for that battery. Pulling 3000 watts from a little 12 volt battery would be 250 amps… You’d need some giant cables to deliver that, on the off chance that crappy inverter is anywhere close to honest about it’s specs (and there’s no chance it is). Also, using a modified sine wave inverter isn’t good for your electronics. Sorry but I don’t think the person who designed this should be giving advice about this stuff. Or trashing other people’s products in Amazon reviews as he did here for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R7BLPTB474PXX/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8ASIN=B07CS9HKDL I’m a huge DIY guy, but I’m sorry to say that anyone buying that Yeti generator would have an infinitely better power bank than this.

    I’ve been reviewing this design for some time now and am interested in your Комментарии и мнения владельцев. What is your background and why should I believe you vs Mark? I’m always looking for a better way to build something so I’d be interested in your suggestions. Mark has been pretty upfront with all his design and having other options is good if there are better options. I would like to ask Mark some questions also, but not sure how to do that. Thanks.

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    I want to adapt this for a Lithium Ion battery. Can I, and how? I see a list that names some extra items for battery care, but any immediate suggestions are appreciated.

    Hello, Thank you for all your great work on this blog! I build websites, and you really worked hard to get this up. You are teaching us to be free. Thank you! Questions: 1) What type of batteries are you using: Lead Acid? Nicad? Lithium Ion? 2) Regarding the inverter inside the Pelican Case, is there enough air inside the case to allow the fans to keep the inverter cooled off? Thanks for you encouragement. Best to you

    This looks like a great project and very interesting build which will provide a lot of hands-on education about how a solar generator will work. However…as I add the of all the parts it is within 50 of the BLUETTI Power Station highlighted…certainly not 50% of the cost as specified…am I missing something?

    I see that the outlet is 120V AC, we use DC 220V here. How would i build one with DC 220V? I have never put together anything like this, I wanna do this project so i can build for my family members too. pls what do i need to modify to get DC 220V outlet?

    Mark, Great job on this. I just finished this in time for the winter storm of the century here in Texas. Basically used it to keep my internet up, charge devices, brew coffee, etc. I’ll be adding more batteries and panels. I did have one question and one comment. First, have you thought about adding a battery monitor? If so, have you narrowed down choices? Lots to choose from out there. Second, I wanted to let you know that I had to rewire the harnesses to make them work with the switches. Maybe they sent me the wrong harnesses?? Just wanted to see if you had to do the same.

    Not so much a comment but a question. I have watched the videos several times and I am so impressed with the professionalism of your build. My question is: is there somewhere else I can get a list of all the needed components. I can’t get my browser to allow the components images to show. I know the parts are referenced to Amazon and I assume the have changed, but I can’t see the chart well enough imbedded in the video to make an order for parts. Thanks for any help you can give.

    Hi Fred! Sorry for the trouble. It seems some ad-blockers block the amazon links. You can find a link to the major components in the video description on YouTube (https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=E_ObjoI_XGIt=88s ) but I don’t have the full parts list there. It has been difficult keeping the parts list up to date as some of the items have changed somewhat since the video was created.

    I’m curious about potential power draw on the system when the inverter is off from the remote switch but the main switch is still on. Does it still use some power? How much? How fast would it drain the batteries? Is it advisable (or even practical) to put a remote switch (mounted through the case) on the positive line between battery and the inverter? If so, this would also allow the use of cheaper inverters without a remote system. What do you think?

    I have a gas powered portable generator and the THD is 23%. I’m thinking of building your 4000 watt unit. What is the THD on a 4000 watt unit.

    Mark, I am very glad to have found your website. My wife and I have been living the ‘grid’ life for decades, and have recently purchased a beautiful remote piece of land in the NC mountains. Your system looks perfect. My question is- we will have a 220v well pump that will need to run occasionally. Will this system provide the power and amps we need? I look forward to your reply, Chris (and Jeanna)

    I am on the verge of purchasing all the parts for the solar generator. I have a question on the Krieger 4000W inverter, it is only 1.8″ longer than the 3000W. So from what I can see it will fit physically, but would there be any advantage or issue from the power and or electrical side?

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    Hi, love the design and I’m about to start building one as an emergency backup for hurricane season here in South Mississippi. Any chance you have a printable wiring diagram so I’m not running back and forth to a computer as I’m working on this? Thanks in advance Matt

    With fire season approaching in northern California, I’ve been thinking about solar panels but the cost isn’t in my budget right now, I was thinking that a generator would be a good substitute in the meantime. Do you think this would work for power-outages, do you have any suggestions to get the most effective/lasting generator? Power outages can sometimes last up to a week, I just want to make sure I can get the most out of it. Thanks for sharing, either way, I will be using this tutorial.

    Thanks for sharing! I haven’t seen many DIY solar generators that I have had enough information. I’m excited to try this.

    Was watching a YouTube review of a Bluetti solar power station or so it’s called. It ran a refrigerator but not a power saw. Is this because of the type of motor in the saw? It was rated at 2400wh/1000W. It is expensive too, 1900 plus cost of solar panels. I would believe building your own allows customization and easier replacement and repairs. Would your system equally not run a power saw? Just wondering. Thank you for all the information you have provided.

    Hello. Getting ready to purchase and build. But, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using a 3000 w inverter vs a 4000 w inverter? Many thanks,

    We were in power outage, so I kept question short. Just wanting to know about finding ideal array to inverter size with this system. I want to have back up power for a 9cu ft (750w) frig/freezer, a 6 qt Instant Pot or electric burner,, and some phones/laptops that don’t all need to be powered at once. The 4000w inverter is not much more in price than the 3000w, but will it actually be more inefficient? In other words, an example of more isn’t better? My 16yr old daughter is building this for an independent school project and she thinks we need the bigger one for initial power up, but I’m hesitant for other reasons. Any feedback helps. Thanks

    Hi Elizabeth – I haven’t done a side by side load test between the two units, or checked the idle power loss between the two. I wish I had because that would have helped answer your question! I would assume the larger unit either has larger or more switching transistors, which may potentially use slightly more power, but in turn handle larger startup surges like you said. I don’t think you would have any trouble with those items with either unit. I have an 8 quart Instapot and its electrical sticker in the back says it should use no more than 1200 watts. Resistive loads (the electric heater Instapot) do not have a huge startup spike like inductive loads do (mostly motors). I haven’t had any problems with the compressor motors from fridge / freezers, but have had mixed results with power tools such as portable air compressors etc. Hope this helps!

    The battery holds are no longer available. Do you suggest a different brand and if not, what specifications should I look for when getting a different one.

    I will see if I can find some alternates to link. Thanks for letting me know! Generally you just need to see what group size the battery you are using is, then find a battery mount that lists that group size.

    If i build everything exactly by your specs but use a lithium ion battery, what else would i have to change? The charge controller? I imagine could still daisy chain them as in your expansion and charge with solar etc? Your designs are brilliant btw.

    Charging the battery discharges hydrogen gas. I added a boat transom drain as an air vent to my build so I don’t beed to open the case. T-H Marine DP-1-DP Self-Retaining Boat Transom Drain Plug – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY0BX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VBmIEb4DYM7QJ

    I scrolled this whole thing looking for someone talking about a need to vent the battery. My understanding is that even an AGM battery can discharge hydrogen gas if overcharged. The charge controller or battery maintainer should avoid this, but what if either of those devices were to fail? A sealed pelican case full of hydrogen gas sounds very scary. Anyone have advice on this. Thanks

    I wasn’t trying to power the house, but the other way around, trying to power the battery of the generator from the wall outlet.

    Oh ok, then that should have just powered the battery tender / maintainer. It shouldn’t add any draw to the battery, but instead slowly recharge it. Once it is topped off the battery tender will keep the battery at a happy voltage for long term storage.

    I was able to find what was draining the battery. I had inverted the cable connection at the 2 port power socket on the zowaysoon PJH-RS-0377 Car Digital Voltmeter. Once I made the change, there was no power drain. Did anybody noticed power loss on the battery when you plug the generator to the wall in your house as if you were supplying electricity to your house?

    Glad you found the issue Luciano! I am not sure if I understand your second question, but it sounds like you may be trying to backfeed the house electrical system with the AC output from the inverter. That can be dangerous if you are not careful or do not have a true transfer switch. It can damage equipment when power comes back on. It can also be dangerous to lineman should they forget to shunt the lines when working on them. It is better to power your necessary equipment with extension cords unless you are certain you understand how to mitigate the dangers of back feeding your house incorrectly.

    Thanks! I’ll be waiting for the new video. I ended up using the expanded battery to kinda jump start the one in the generator after hooking up the solar panels. And it seems to be working. As for the power drain, I will have to completely disconnect the battery, not just the negative cable, which I did before. I ordered a battery meter, which should help me in the future. By the way, I’m not having power drainage issue when not in use with the expanded battery. Thanks a million.

    Hi Larry, Sounds cool! Would love to see some pics when you finish the build. Yes, I have some more stickers. Anyone that wants some send me an email at [email protected] with a mailing address of where to send em!

    Hi Luciano, I just saw your messages and the photos. It is a bit hard to tell in the photos where some of the wires from the solar controller are connected, but it seems correct as best I can tell. Having a detailed video for checking all connections is a good idea! I may try to add that at some point. Craig’s suggestion of turning the inverter switch off is good, especially for long term storage, but usually not necessary if the unit is getting some sunlight each day. All batteries will self-discharge some, but without any load this usually takes several weeks. Yours sounds like their is a constant draw on the battery somewhere, or the solar charger is not working right. If the batteries get drained too low, they can be damaged and may not hold a full charge / will have a shorter life. Until you get the problem figured out I would completely disconnect the battery when not testing to avoid damaging the battery. Just disconnecting the negative cables from the battery is sufficient to fully disconnect it. Another option would be to plug in the battery tender, but first make sure it has enough charge to keep up with whatever is draining it down. Do you happen to have a volt or multi-meter? It can help troubleshoot this sort of stuff. I would start by checking for voltage on the solar panel leads while they are in full sunlight. Then re-connect the panel wires to the box and check for voltage at the solar panel input terminal screws on the controller (the screws you use to tighten the connection are fine to use as test points). If there is voltage there greater than 12v, then check to see the voltage on the charge controllers battery terminals match the actual battery voltage. If those all look good, see if the lights on the charge controller indicate it is charging. It should be if all the above checks out. Hope that helps!

    Try testing the solar controller without the modification to make sure it’s not a hardware problem instead of a wiring issue. Also, switching the inverter off, which I mentioned in my previous comment, should help the problem you’re having with the battery becoming quickly depleted.

    Do you turn the inverter switch off when not using the inverter? Leaving it on will draw some current. If that doesn’t solve it, then consider uploading pictures of your connections. There are sites on the internet for “free image hosting.” You can google it, and then link to them.

    I’m having trouble with the battery. It gets depleted very quick. I got a 2nd optima battery and it is started to be depleted. I tried recharging by using the solar panel and later in the night from the wall outlet. I have looked at the schematic on the videos, but I don’t see that I did the connection incorrect. By the way, I did the modification, however the solar charge controller does not light up. Is there a blown up video or picture to redo the connections? Thanks!

    Hi Mark – Great videos and instruction. Thanks for putting this all together. In the list of parts, it appears that the second part, in between the Pelican case and the Inverter is no longer available, since it is just an Amazon advertisement. Can you please tell me what that part is and if there is a replacement part available? Thanks, Jeff

    Thanks for letting me know Jeff. It was the link for the solar panel charge controller kit. It looks like they have updated that with a new version. I updated the link so that is should be working again.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

    I think I might have an issue with my system. I will connect my solar panels and by mid day my battery is at 13v, but by sunset it is depleted to 12.2-12.5v, and there’s no load while it’s charging. Any ideas?

    Hi Patrick, it could just be a sign that your battery is wearing out. This happens over time naturally, or be draining the battery further than you should. Deep cycle battery manufactures usually recommend draining a battery no more than 80% to preserve the life of the battery. A new 12v battery should read around 12.7v when fully charged (with no load or charging voltage applied). As the battery wears out, this top voltage will slowly decrease.

    First and foremost, thank you for the time and effort you’ve put into this post and keeping it current. This build will suit my needs perfectly (just need to get the math figured out). You mention that the system as you’ve designed it will support 400 watts of solar input. The part you call out for the solar panels includes a charge controller with a 100 watt panel. A couple of questions for you (possibly answered already and I apologize if so) 1. Did you design and do you use this system with a single 100 watt panel providing and maintaining charge? 2. Do you have any recommendations on sites for calculating actual capacity requirement? What I’ve been able to find on a general search so far points to the math for the load but doesn’t really (if at all) address how to calculate for a solar maintained battery system. I’m pretty certain that what I want/need to set up will be minimal draw but I’ve not been able to find good info on a solar maintained battery system to support it. I’ve found the math for how much a battery of X amp capacity will support over time but I’ve not been able (bad search parameters?) what is needed of the solar panels to maintain the batteries against X load.

    Hi Vestal, Thanks! I currently have two 100 watts feeding my system, but it was designed to allow you to use up to four of them. See the later post on how to expand the system for more details on that. Most of the info you find assumes that there is a battery bank as well, as most systems do have one, but the calculations are to determine how much load you can sustain on a continuous basis. You can exceed that load and the batteries will draw down. This is fine for short durations as long as they are infrequent enough that the solar panels can recover the battery charge over time.

    I have not experimented yet with the higher wattage panels. They may make more sense than utilizing 4 of the 100W panels. I went that route because I could use just 1 or 2 of them and keep it more flexible / portable when I wanted. The charge controller ratings will be your limit of total panel voltage and current. So long as you stay within that, you could use any combination of panels that fits your needs best.

    I did not see a part number or dimensions for the new L-bracket that you use to mount the red battery cable connect to the case. Did you make them or where they store-bought?

    To Mark: Currently have a solar system of 27 panels. How can I use the existing system to run your solar generator?

    Hi Grant, There are a couple ways you could go about that. You could get a charge controller that is compatible with the voltage / current that your current solar array is producing and patch into it that way. Another option would be to jumper to the other system’s battery bank, so that its batteries would charge the solar generators battery. Is the goal to have a portable option you can take out in the field after it is charged up? I would assume the larger system already has an AC Inverter.

    For the inverter, is there a reason that you went with the modified sine wave type instead of the pure sine wave type? I know it is cheaper, smaller and lighter. But it seems like the pure sine wave would offer you more options for using it.

    Is there a reason we don’t use higher watt panels? I would think 1 or 2 300 watt panels would be easier than 4 100 watt panels? Thanks in advance for your response.

    Hi Mark, great job on the design of this unit and the videos. Please e-mail the schematic diagram if available. Thanks!

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    I have only one solar panel right now. For the time being, I would like to try and power the electronics in just one room. If I have the panel connected 24/7 and run a clock, cell phone, and TV with the generator ( mainly in the evening). Is that the proper way to use this generator? Or is it mainly for just when the power goes out.

    Your pictures and explanations…plus the pictures of actual items needed were most helpful. Good job. Much thanks.

    I got the generator done and it seems to be working. I only have one solar panel right now. I had that out in the sun and plug in a portable AC to the generator. It was working for about 45 minutes and then the inverter started to beep. I turned off the AC and opened the case. The solar light was blinking green and the battery light was solid red. What does that mean? I looked at the manual, but it was confusing.

    I’m trying to build one now and I’m having some issues. First when I connect the negative cables to the battery I get a spark. What do I need to do to stop that.

    Hi!! Does anybody know if the 3000 watts portable solar generator with an extra battery would cover all of the power needs for a regular house for one day? Thanks!

    Very unlikely. It all depends on the number of watts your appliances use. Here is a response I gave to someone else to help get you started. It’s really a mathematical question: Here are some thoughts on estimating how many batteries you need and the calculations. Here’s what I would do. First, add up your watts for all the appliances. Let’s suppose 600 watts at 120 volts as an example. Watts = amps X volts 600 = ? x 12 (volt battery) Amps = watts / volts 50 = 600/12 So, a 12 volt 50 amp hour battery would run your appliances for one hour. But, you really should drain batteries only about 20% if you want your rechargeable marine type batteries to last any number of years. Your one battery would not last too long. So, let’s say you decide to buy 128 amp hour batteries, which is fairly common. So, you can drain 26 amps from each battery safely. Suppose you buy 10. That gives you 260 amps that you can safely drain and recharge. Suppose you want to run your 600 watt appliances for 5 hours. You need 3000 watts total. 260 amps X 12 volts gives you 3120 total watts, which can give you 5 hours to run continually 600 watts. Those 10 batteries could run your appliances totaling 3000 watts total for 5 hours without over draining your batteries. Also, you will likely not be running everything continually. But, the above you be sufficient to get you started with your own calculations.

    Don’t plan on running your central air/heat (non-gas), clothes dryer/washer. Window/portable air conditioner will drain it real fast. Plan on using just frig/freezer, fans, lights (preferably LED/CFL), limited TV/radio. Calculate your solar panels and batteries to store enough power for at least one day (preferably two days) while still powering what you need during the day. You don’t want to have no power just because of a rainy or cloudy day.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

    I live in an area where the weather can cause multiple days without power. Would I be able to use this generator to backfeed power into my house (yes, of course with the proper disconnects and other safety precautions)? I want to be able to power a refrigerator, lights and fans for night time.

    Would you be able to run a 5,000 btu ac unit with the 2,000 or 3,000 inverter. And if yes for how long

    Hi Mark, I have a pond that has a continuous pump running my water fall. It is 1000W, 120VAC, 3/4 HP. What about the Charging the battery. Do we need to add a controller to charge the battery pack so that it run at night? Do you sell your system? Email me.

    Hi Mark, Just a heads up. I’m building a similar case and wasn’t sure about putting the Krieger remote switch on the outside of the case. I emailed them and they said it’s not weather resistant so I’m going to forego installing it on my build. Figured I would share.

    So you only using a 100 watt panel can this build use more panels and were would the max wattage for input be? Also can more than one battery be used or it that outside the scope for this type of project? Thanks for the website.

    Thanks for sharing how to build a 2000 watt solar generator I must say that Solar generators are an up-and-coming portable energy technology.

    Hi Mark, The 3000 watt inverter was no longer available when I purchased the parts so I bought the 4000 watt inverter. The inverter shuts off when I try to use it with a 1500 watt saw. I’ve tried to get help from the seller of the inverter but I suspect the information they have provided isn’t correct. They seem to think I need at minimum a 1/0 gauge wire and implied I need to change the battery cables. Isn’t it just the wire from the inverter to the battery that would need to be this size? If so, the 1/0 wires that came with the inverter would suffice, right? Or do I really need to change the battery cables to the fuse box, bus bar and jumper cable quick connect? They also said I need two batteries to run the 1500 watt saw on a 4000 watt inverter. Does this sound right? Thank you, Macy

    Hi Matt, The 3000 watt model wasn’t available anymore so I bought the 4000 watt unit. It’s supposed to be rated at 8000 peak watts. As I power up the saw the voltage on the inverter’s read-out drops and the inverter cuts the power to the system at about 1900 watts. The 1500 watt saw doesn’t even get up to speed before it cuts out the power. After looking at the manual a little closer, I see the outlet is supposed to have 8/2 wire. I went out and bought some 8/2 wire but there is no way this wire will fit either the inverter or the GFI receptacle. The wire appears to be stranded so I must have grabbed the wrong type. I was using 10/2 and thought that would be ok but I don’t know for sure. I suspect the inverter is bad but I am not knowledgeable enough to second guess the customer service person. The generator worked perfectly the first time I used it. I can’t help but wonder if trickle charging the battery wrecked the inverter. Any advice is welcome. Thank you. Macy

    Can anyone please tell me where the parts list is on this site for the 3000 watt design so I can order from Amazon. Thanks and Appreciate this!!

    Hi Gordon, the parts list is below the photo of the battery. Each item is linked to Amazon. You might want to keep two Windows open to maneuver between the list and Amazon. I don’t think the 3000 Watt inverter is available anymore. I ended up with the 4000 watt and am having some trouble with it. Macy

    Hi Mark, I built your box just as you described in your videos. I am not sharp on electricity so I am hoping you can help. I used the box two weeks ago with no trouble. Because I drained the battery a little bit, I plugged it in to trickle charge. I used it again this past weekend but had some trouble with it cutting the power. I noticed the light on the remote flashing. I didn’t find anything in the inverter manual but saw something online that this indicates the inverter was in protection mode. I doubt it was the too warm because it was 39 degrees outside. Heat wave in MN! The inverter felt cold to the touch. Admittedly, there were two of us running saws at the same time. Is it possible this was the problem? I realized I was probably drawing too much power and backed off to just one saw. This was still too much. I double checked the connections and didn’t see anything loose. Is it possible something happened to the inverter while trickle charging? Does the inverter switch inside the box have to be turned off while trickle charging the battery? Thank you for putting together such good directions in your videos. Macy

    Hi Mark, I am a fan of your site and I have decided to go ahead and build a solar generator for camping, but the components list w with links to amazon seem to be gone. Let me know if you can get that back or send me a simple list of part numbers so I can take it from there. Hope you are well. You have a great resource here. Regards, Eric

    Hi Eric, thanks for the interest. The amazon links for the various parts still appear for me. They are using affiliate links, so some Ad blockers will prevent them from showing, so that might be why they are not showing up for you.

    No responses from Mark since January of 2018. I hope he’s well and too busy making millions to reply.

    Thanks Al. Life has been really busy and I had to step away for a while. I am hoping to get back into making some more posts / videos very shortly. Sadly, no millions! : )

    Has anyone explored the idea of what it would take to make this a plug and go unit. I know the idea is that of obtaining power via solar, but let me describe my purpose and interest. Our HS marching Band uses a gasoline powered generator to power our sound system and keyboards for practice and performance. I hate hauling gasoline, storing it inside the building, and the the sound generated by the engine. I’m thinking a 2000 watt sine wave inverter with a 4000 watt surge capacity attached to a couple of 100 amp AGM batteries and adding a few USB outlets as well as a GFCI to power up the sound system. I need 4-6 hours of service and the ability to recharge over night. I think this is a great outline and guide, and I’m just trying to get some ideas on how to modify to fit my needs.

    I have created the same exact solar box that you described. You can go on offer up and look at my box I have for sale or you can go to my page and look at all the pictures. My page is under Justin Raphael. Send me a friend request I’ll look for it under rusty.

    Hi Rusty, No modifications needed. The build I have above does include a way to charge the batteries directly from the wall. The parts list includes a 1.5A charger /battery maintainer. I added it as a wall to allow storage of the unit while keeping the batteries topped off. You could use a larger version of that charger if you needed faster recharge times, and the solar panels / solar charger are not needed if you do not intend to charge your batteries that way. Thanks for your interest!

    Hello Mark, Great videos and information. I noticed that renogy doesn’t offer the controller with the lead connection anymore. I’m going to be using lithium ion batteries. Do you foresee it being a problem hooking the inverter directly to the batteries since there won’t be a low voltage disconnect? Do you recommend another charge controller?

    I’ve been gathering the parts to build the 3000w set up. There’s only a handful of things i need to collect. Great walkthrough, and very informative. Considering how late i came across this, i know there’s no more stickers left, lol. I’m looking forward to the finished product. Will work great for fishing trips.

    I have a 3000watt pure sine wave inverter I was going to use but it is too big to fit in my solar generator box that I make for my customers. I’ll sell it to you for 200. It cost me 400. If you want to buy it I’ll send you a pay pal email and I’ll ships to you. All I need is your email and address.

    I’m looking at running a small shop in the Philippines which is currently running on the local “regular brown-out” electricity. The shop has two fridge/freezers, aircon from a box in the wall, three leds in the ceiling, flat screen TV, coffee machine, toasty machine, water cooler, and I regularly charge several iPhones and Bluetooth speakers. How do I even start to work out how much juice I’m going to need?! Most of it doesn’t have a manual. And has anyone experience of putting it between the mains electricity? I also imagine it will need a voltage stabiliser. What we do have though is plenty of sunlight.

    Here are some thoughts on estimating how many batteries you need and the calculations. Here’s what I would do. First, add up your watts for all the appliances. Let’s suppose 600 watts at 120 volts as an example. Watts = amps X volts 600 = ? x 12 (volt battery) Amps = watts / volts 50 = 600/12 So, a 12 volt 50 amp hour battery would run your appliances for one hour. But, you really should drain batteries only about 20% if you want your rechargeable marine type batteries to last any number of years. Your one battery would not last too long. So, let’s say you decide to buy 128 amp hour batteries, which is fairly common. So, you can drain 26 amps from each battery safely. Suppose you buy 10. That gives you 260 amps that you can safely drain and recharge. Suppose you want to run your 600 watt appliances for 5 hours. You need 3000 watts total. 260 amps X 12 volts gives you 3120 total watts, which can give you 5 hours to run continually 600 watts. Those 10 batteries could run your appliances totaling 3000 watts total for 5 hours without over draining your batteries. Also, you will likely not be running everything continually. But, the above you be sufficient to get you started with your own calculations.

    Oh yea. I forgot. I also added a meter that tells you everything. how many watts is being used and produced / battery meter / voltage / amps / currents basically everything.

    I have made your box mark but I put a lot of new twists on it to accommodate every person and there need. 1. I made it without the battery so people can add there own battery acid/gel/ or lithium. Which ever they like. Plus it keeps the weight down. 2. Add a pure sine wave inverter. 3. Add a second solar input to add 300watts of solar to charge batteries quicker. 4. Added a weatherproof battery connector. So the whole box is weatherproof. 5. Added a top panel so you don’t have to look at the inside with all the wires. 6. Made it easy to replace any part that might go bad over time. 7. Added 2 fans to circulate air flow. If anyone needs one custom built Let me know. I custom make them any way you want. Just email me at [email protected]. I will send you pictures of the finished product with every option I offer.

    OK, for the 1620 Inside dimensions are: 22L, 17W, and 10.75H (with the lid open) You should not feel obliged to use the same locations or even the same components. I had to do it again, I would use a pure sine wave inverter, for example which probably would not fit in my 1620 unless I bought maybe a 1000 watt inverter. The height of 11.02 in your pelican case, if that is also including the height of the lid, could be a problem. Hope this helps!

    I was able to buy several surplus Pelicans a while ago that are decently bigger than the 1620. This will allow me to add a 1000W pure sine wane inverter as well as replace the floating charger with a ‘Smart’ charger. This will allow me to charge at a faster rate at night if needed. Will be able to watch the large screen TV/DVD while out roughing it in the woods. I would suggest doing searches on letgo/offerup/Ebay for used/surplus cases. I got mine for 80 each.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

    AWESOME SITE. Was wondering 1 thing. I have a Pelican 1615 case. Will this work? Its brand new and ID like to get buy with not having to order the 1620 if I can swing it. Thanks

    Hi Mark, Excellent work you have done. I have been looking it over prior to building one. A couple of Комментарии и мнения владельцев/questions I have. 1) Is the KR3000 supposed to output pure sine wave? The manual says it is modified sine wave. I know this will not adversely affect corded power tools but not sure about ‘delicate’ electronics or chargers for cordless devices. 2) Using the direct 12 high current connector for jump starting cars might present a problem They are rated at 175A. The starter motor current chart (link below) shows MANY cases where the current required could be higher (sometimes much higher) that the rating of the connector. If the draw is for very short duration and not much higher than the ration there shouldn’t be a problem, but otherwise could definitely be an issue. Are there higher rated connectors? 3) Also with the high current connector. If a battery expansion box is used (VMAX-125) and the load put upon the invertor is maxed out (6000W) or close to it the connectors between the two boxes could be forced to handle at least 250 amps load (possibly more if the primary battery is smaller than the VMAX-125). 4) I would put one of those marine super heavy battery switches in the expansion box due to the fact that as soon as you make connection you could have a major spark if one of the other is very low/dead. 5) I have seen some golf carts with flush-mounted metal boxes for the charging cable were the connector is recessed. I think this might be better because the connector would be mounted more securely and also would not be sticking out.

    It’s a great idea, but a bit not realistic. The title “3000 watt” in the title is misleading, as the solar panel gives out only 100 watts max. Let’s say your battery is completely charged and it can hold like 150 amp-hours. If you don’t want to destroy the battery, you should not drain it more than 50% of the total charge, which means you can only use about 75 amp-hours of charge. If you use 3000 watts of power at 12v you will be using 3000/12 = 250 amps, which means you can only use it for 0.3 hours, or like 17 minutes. I am not even sure it’s possible to pull that many amps at once. You should really base the system size not on the inverter capabilities, but on the realistic available power.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

    Strongly considering building this, with one adjustment: I have two 10w LED spotlights, but they’re not flush mount, so I plan to move the solar charge controller next to the battery tender and mount a fishing rod holder and second trailer harness in the area of the top handle, to accept a pole with the lights mounted on top. (Basically building Pelican’s “remote area light” with all of your added functionality.) Awesome work! Really enjoy the combination of your write up and videos, as well as Amazon links for all the major components. Thank you!

    The easiest way is to follow Mark’s step-by-step videos which is better than plans. They’re all on YouTube or you can follow the links on this site to the next video. You actually see him in the process of building the solar generator, and the tools he used to accomplish the different tasks. That, plus all the links to buy the components puts this within the ability of nearly everyone to be able to build. This was my first time working on a solar generator project.

    Hi Thanks for posting such a wonderful tutorial. I too am planning to build my own portable solar system. I was wondering, why go with a modified sine wave invertor, rather than a pure sine wave? With a pure sine wave, I know its cost a little more, but you will be able to run sensitive electronics devices. Thanks Al

    Hello Mark. Very nice project and great instructions! I have a quick question: When looking up this battery on Amazon, the description also shows the option for a red top and yellow top. Their recommendation seems to be to use the blue top only for starting. And it seems, based on their description, that the yellow top would be more suitable for this application, but I have no clue. Could you please shed some light on the rationale behind your choice of battery. Much appreciated!

    Mark, I noticed in the pictures that you did not include ventilation in the case, how do keep the inverter from overheating? Also the solar charge controller has a temperature sensor and the heat from the inverter in an unvented box could affect the charging operation. I build military target ranges and laid my panels flat to prevent ricochets from striking the panels and I started losing batteries life. Turns out by laying them flat in 90 degree temperature the sensor did not have enough air flow to operate properly. Another thing is that even though the battery is a sealed lead acid it vents around the negative post, in a sealed box there is nowhere for the gasses to go. One of the things I noticed in these Комментарии и мнения владельцев was someone stating they were not familiar with electricity, my advice when you start building one of these is to have someone who is familiar check your work BEFORE connecting the battery. Another was someone wanting to power refrigerators, AC’s, TV’s and such. Keep in mind that using a 50-55 AH battery you can power a CPAP machine for 8-9 hours before having to recharge. With a 100 watt panel it takes about 6-10 hours of bright sun to fully recharge. Sorry, didn’t mean to write a book

    Rick, I have a CPAP machine that uses 13 amps (12V), so that would give me only 4 hours. I’m obviously going to have to include a separate battery and additional panel in my system.

    Hi Mark! I’m almost done the build. I’m into Part 4, wiring and have wired the battery, bus bar, quick connect, and put the fuse box in. I was wondering if you have any Survivalist stickers left. Would really like to put one on the case! By the way, thank you for the research. postting all the materials, the videos and the links to Amazon. You really made this so easy!

    This is such great info and using it to piece together my project now. Thank you What portable solar panels do you recommend? I’m looking for something that may fold up in a briefcase or something flexible for the underside of a tonneau cover to be flipped up. Thoughts?

    Hi Mark, Let me first in congratulating you on an amazing DIY project. You videos are amazing and the finished product is worthy of admiration. I would like to get your advice on the following; How many solar panels and batteries would I need to run an average size refrigerator 24 a day and keep operating everyday? Is there any other change that I would need to do to the system? I would like to make only my refrigerator completely off grid. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Javier Espinosa

    Dear Sir, I would like to contact you privately. Can I have your email address? You can reach me on [email protected]

    I liked your build had kept the YouTube link to your videos for when I go back to my country I get to build it. 1 thing is let’s say I don’t want a portable solar generator and want want to add more batteries can you make a video on that. Trying to power a normal refrigerator, fan, lights in a home for when power goes out.

    Hey I finsihed the build, and it all seems to working fine except for the voltage meter reader on the outside. Doesnt come on. The USB is working though. Curious where I should start on troubleshooting this. I never worked any kind of wiring before until this so I’m kinda stuck like chuck not wanting to mess something else up.

    Check your wireling setup. You could have them switched of a bad meter. Could be a bad connection or connector

    Hi Mark, I have one question. Do I need DCDC charger to charge from car battery to Generator. The charger you put in is for AC outlet so when battery get full it will disconnect it. Thanks Aslam Molani

    Thanks Mark. Yes it make sense. I think it will be fine if I plug one side in the cig. port at the back of my suv and second one in the cig.port on the generator or i have to add additional cig.port which connect directly to the generator battery. (it’s when I am not using solar panel while driving) Thanks again for you help. Aslam Molani

    Great! Shouldn’t be any need to add a second cigarette port to the generator. The one that is on their will work. Just make sure to turn on the power switch for it, and it is wired through the fuse block and then directly to the battery.

    Hi Mark, Just now I have finish watching your last video of how to make solar generator. I am very impress the way you explain it. i have watch so many videos to learn to make it but no one explain it like the way you did. now I have full confidence that i can make it. I am really thankful to you for making these detail videos. I have one question. Can I charge this battery unit with my car cigarette charger while traveling and long driving. If not then can you please explain how can I charge with 12v cigarette charger. I will really appreciate that. Again thanks a lot for these videos. Great job. Aslam Molani

    Thanks Aslam! I am glad it has been helpful. Yes, you can definitely use the 12v cigarette port as a way to charge the solar generator. They make double ended 12v cigarette / accessory connectors for this kind of purpose. Here is one that looks like it would be good: http://amzn.to/2CZtC8Z The solar generator unit can also recharge the car battery in the same way, or greatly extend the cars battery life when being used while the vehicle is not running. The water / electricity analogy is a good way to explain how this works. When the solar generator is connected to the car battery, which ever side’s battery has the highest pressure (voltage) will push water (current) through the wires into the other battery, until eventually the pressure (voltage) is equal / balanced on both sides. Once the voltage on both sides is balanced, all current flow will stop and they can remain connected indefinitely. If either side experiences a load and begins to drop voltage, the other side will begin charging again until once again the voltage on both sides is balanced. Hope this makes sense!

    Hi Mark, I am building my generator and my switches to the flood light work great. However, my digital voltage reader is not coming on even though my sub and my cigarette lighter work. What is causing this problem?

    Hi Hans, It sounds like you may have a defective volt guage if your wiring is correct. Since you have power at the USB and 12v aux outlet, we know your switch is working and that you have power to that point. Double check that your crimps are tight, and that the and – wires are not reversed on the back of the volt gauge. If all checks out there, I would suspect it is defective. If you happen to have an DMM / voltage meter, I would also double check for voltage at the guage terminals as well to be sure.

    I’ve been searching for hours on this topic and finally found your post. totosite, I have read your post and I am very impressed. We prefer your opinion and will visit this site frequently to refer to your opinion. When would you like to visit my site?

    I am currently in the wiring process of this project. Unless I missed it somewhere, I didnt see or hear what you did with the wires coming from the battery charger… I am not electronicly minded so I am having to start and stop your video over and over again during this process. It’s a little tighter with the 3000 watt but everything fit. For those like me building one that doesnt have the heavy duty crimpers, I took my cables to a local car and audio and the kid just soldered them in. Any suggestions on the charger wires would be appreciated Mark. Thank you again for the great video.

    Hi Matt, The wires from the charger lead to one of the tabs on the fuse block and the negative bus bar. This ultimately connects it to the battery, but ensures that is is fused. I wired both the AC battery tender / charger and the Solar Charge Controller in the same way. This is in the Part 4 video, starting at about 12:20. Having a local car audio installer help with the large crimps was a good idea. I am surprised they didn’t mechanically crimp the wires first before soldering though, as this would provide a better electrical connection, as well as reduce chance of wires pulling out. You can also use a vise to partially crimp these, and or use a metal punch and hammer to smash a divot into the side of the crimp to help clamp the wires inside. Good luck with the rest of the build!

    Hello. Just wondering if this unit can be charged with a thermal electric unit for a wood stove also ?

    Man I’m really glad I built mine. Shortly after we had this major fire in Fallbrook ca. Took mine with me when I had to bug out! Keep charged with hotel power in case I need it when I got back to the house. Plus I was ready for brown out with my portable light. One thing I found out was, to read the charge % the solar quick connect cord needed to be connected, but no the panel. Thank for the build.

    Hi Rick, I would love to see them. There isn’t a way to upload photos in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев here, but if you go to the forum section, you should be able to create a post and upload photos there.

    https://wwwcom/don.francis.58/posts/10215436482771840. Finished mine with some twists of my own. Salvage make plug end for panel quick connect/disconnect.

    I’m currently putting the pieces together for my first dyi solar generator. Of all the videos I’ve watched your’s are definitely some of the most helpful, thanks for putting these out there. One question, my inverter states that you should never mount it near the battery as a spark could ignite the off gas. I am using sealed batteries but now I’m worried:). It looks like a lot of people do it this way, so I’m wondering if the risk is very minimal? Thoughts? Thanks.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge? It can support AC 110V/220V pure sine wave output and solar input. It can support DC QC3.0 and type-c PD. It can power up various electronic and electrical devices. It is rechargeable,versatile,noiseless,portable for home outage/outdoor/emergency.

    For Chris Dresser I’m assembling the components to build this system in Vieques. I found no components readily available in Puerto Rico. Comment here and I can let you know my process for acquisition. Amazon will deliver some. Maybe I can get you contact info through the administrator

    I already sent a few less rugged but lithium solar generators to PR. The only issue I found was getting batteries shipped. Shoot me an email if you want dettails.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge? It can support AC 110V/220V pure sine wave output and solar input. It can support DC QC3.0 and type-c PD. It can power up various electronic and electrical devices. It is rechargeable,versatile,noiseless,portable for home outage/outdoor/emergency.

    Hello Mark, Great videos, I just wanted to know why not use Lithium Ion batteries? They’re lighter, more reliable, and requires less time to charge compared to lead acid batteries.

    While I think everyone can use the type of batteries they prefer, I still go with lead acid batteries for now, since they have a longer track record, lower initial cost, are widely available, easier to recycle, and less specific about their operating conditions. It just comes down to individual preferences for a given application.

    Any interest in lifepo4 batteries portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge? It can support AC 110V/220V pure sine wave output and solar input. It can support DC QC3.0 and type-c PD. It can power up various electronic and electrical devices. It is rechargeable,versatile,noiseless,portable for home outage/outdoor/emergency.

    Mark, Great videos! I’m considering building one for emergency backup power. Ice storms are a threat here but I don’t like the idea of relying on a generator and gasoline. I have a new furnace and am concerned about the quality of power. Any thoughts on running furnaces and HE gas fired water heaters. Is a pure sine wave inverted required? Simple substitution but pricey. The inverter link to Amazon is pulling up a smaller unit.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge? It can support AC 110V/220V pure sine wave output and solar input. It can support DC QC3.0 and type-c PD. It can power up various electronic and electrical devices. It is rechargeable,versatile,noiseless,portable for home outage/outdoor/emergency.

    Hi my name is Juan I Built your solar generator tu use in Puerto Rico and It’s work fantastic thanks I would like to ask too you too show me how to install 2 panels to the System

    To Juan Martinez, I lived for over 8 years in PR, and am getting ready to go back soon. I am interested in bringing a bunch of these (as many as I can) to Borinken and Vieques, and I’ve been in discussions with some friends with a solar power company about building a solar generator along the lines of these ones, with parts that are readily available on the island now. Would you have any insight into what the availability is in PR for the components needed to build this design. I am wondering if I will need to bring a container load of components, or if I could just find the parts there? What do you think? Do you know anything about the current availability of these parts needed on the island? Will Amazon even deliver to PR? At any rate, good luck to you and your family.

    Any interest in portable power station with AC/DC/cigar lighter/all USB types output supporting solar panel charge?

    I need a solar generator for our home so my mom’s oxygen will run in a power shortage. Would you make one of these and sell it? If so, how much?

    I have one I made the exact same way and it includes 1 – 100watt solar panel. That should run your moms machine. I can sell You that one. I can send you pictures. Let me know. Justin. 941-320-9386 I live in Florida.

    Hey Pat. I can also custom make yours to the way you want it. This is what I do because I am a disabled vet with nothing to do so I make these boxes to sell. I have not made a website yet but I will customize the box however you want. Let me know. My email is [email protected]

    I’m sorry to keep bothering you. Is it possible to link two or more of these together? I have been reading the other Комментарии и мнения владельцев and know already that for my application I’ll need a pure sine wave inverter, but I’m not sure how to link the gennies to each other. Thanks

    Thanks for all the great questions / Комментарии и мнения владельцев guys. Sorry I was out of town for a couple weeks and was backed up on the day job as well. I am doing my best to keep up with the questions / emails I get but I am definitely backlogged. I will answer as many as I can, but I don’t know all the answers either! Feel free to chime in and help others if you know an answer to a question. It is my hope to make this site / forum community based in the future. I would love to have great useful content from lots of perspectives and backgrounds!

    Hi I’m new to this but setting up off grid and was looking for a way to have quiet power without an entire field of panels. I love this idea and an going to do it. One question – how would i hook a wind turbine in the mix? I know your product is portable but I’ll have mine stationary\fixed. Here in Maine, wind is a must in the winter. Thank you for your fabulous instruction and saving one old vet a ton of !

    Sure! Just set up your wind turbine to charge the battery as you would with a dedicated wind system. Both the solar and wind turbine will contribute to recharging the batterys. You might even be able to wire the wind turbine into the same charge controller, but I am not sure on that one. It will depend on how much voltage / current the wind turbine can produce.

    Hi Mark, Great tutorial! Looks like Amazon no longer offers that inverter. Your link brings up a Krieger 1500. You can’t get it from the Krieger site either (http://www.kriegermfg.com/product/kr3000/). I found it on another site about 410 shipping. Is that in the correct price range? Thanks,

    I have an Electric golf cart with 4 12-volt batteries already. Can I utilize those batteries to running household items – as well as recharge it via the solar panel? Thx

    You can definitely use the batteries as long as you have them wired in parallel for a 12v system. The components I used are all geared for a 12v system, not 24v, 48v, etc. you may also need to keep them upright and in a ventilated enclosure depending on the battery construction / chemistry.

    Hi Mark, thanks for all of the time and effort you put into this. I am going to build one of these but had a few 25ft 4ga jumper cables laying around that I was thinking of using as the power cable from the panels to the generator (I believe you are using a 25ft 12ga wire). I know that 4ga is overkill for this application, but do you see any reason that a jumper cable couldn’t be used for this (ie. insulation, resistance, etc.)? Also, I have some surplus lithium battery packs laying around from a previous project (wired in 12v packs totaling ~120ah/1.4kwh @ ~18lbs) that I was thinking of using in lieu of lead acid. If wouldn’t mind, do you mind shooting me an email?

    Hi, This is a fantastic video. I like that you published a video showing it’s capabilities powering some tools. What kind of results have you had powering other things? Fridge, fans, etc. Thanks

    Hi, This is a fantastic video. I like that you published a video showing it’s capabilities powering some tools. What kind of results have you had peering other things? Fridge, fans, etc. Thanks

    Hi Mark, I really need you help. Could you send me a phone number or email address to contact you. Please just send it to my email address so I can get some information from you. I hope this finds you in the best of health and spirits, Chic

    I was wondering how you were providing ventilation for the unit. Does it get hot after the inverter has been running for a while?

    Haven’t had any issues with heat / ventilation yet. Most of the high current / power uses I needed are intermittent so the unit doesn’t get too hot. The inverter will shut down if it overheats before any damage occurs, but this has never happened to me so far. If it ever does, I plan to just open the case and let it breathe!

    This is the charger I have decided to use. 3A maintainer charge, 15A fast charge. It is definitely bigger but I have the space since I am using a bigger case. Mounting will be more complex but shouldn’t be too hard. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-15-Amp-Battery-Charger/563031222

    Iv gotten mine pretty wrapped up. Still Waiting on my VMAX 135ah battery to Come in but everything looking ok on tests so far. I was able to fit the krieger 3000 watt as well as a Reliable 2500 watt pure sine as a back up in my pelican 1650 case. It’s not wired but can be in a matter of minutes. In event of any EMP type event I want a back up. Il likely keep an extra charge controller inside as well. I was very meticulous with wire management and used auto wire conduit for management and organization. One other major difference for my case is a 1/2″ piece of plywood I mounted with construction adhesive to act as a base for hardware mounting. I just didn’t want fasteners showing on the outside for waterproofing and aesthetics. Shoot me an email or send me yours and il send some pics.

    Hi Mark, Love your video. Followed it but made some modifications. Question, I have 2k watt pure sign wave inverter per manufacturer, suggests it must be grounded. I read somewhere it doesn’t have to be because it’s under 5 kilowatts will be used indoors(garage) while portable 100watt panels will be in the backyard. The argument is how can it be called portable if it’s grounded. Your thoughts?

    Hello Mark, great project and presentation. I am in the process of replicating it with some modifications (2 100W panels, MPPT charge controller, 2 Optima BlueTop batteries) I was wondering if it would make sense for efficiency purposes to configure it as 24V (panels, charge controller, batteries) and then step it down to 12V with a transformer like this https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01LY8D7U0. Any thoughts on this? Thank you much, Martin

    Hi Martin, That is an interesting question. I am not certain but I would think that stepping 24v down to 12v to power a 12v inverter would be less efficient (due to the conversion loss through the 24v-12v converter) than using the same two batteries in parallel (so they are running at 12v) would be to power the same 12v inverter. Now with that said, I have heard 24v AC inverters have an efficiency edge over the 12v ones. Although they are less common, would always need 24v, and you would have to find one that fits for your application. Let me know what you end up using and how it works out!

    Hello Mark! I have a pretty urgent question of you if you don’t mind! I am building one of these this week (absolutely incredible tutorial by the way!). Anyway for an event I’m helping out with this weekend, I need to have 2kW consistent power over the course of 9 hours. I know its a lot and I’m struggling to find a way to make it work. At this point I have ordered, piece for piece, your recommended items with only a few changes. Essentially my question is, how many batteries (same model as yours), do I need to put in parallel and how many panels should I have to reach this requirement. Is it even possible? Your quickest response would be greatly greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jonah

    Hi Jonah, I just saw your question. That’s a tough one to answer as there are a lot of variables. When you say 2kw consistent over 9 hours, do you mean they will be actually using 2kw of load the entire time? If so, that’s going to take a pretty big system. The batteries will be draining down pretty quick with that size of a load. It would take 20 of these 100w panels to produce 2kw in full direct sunlight. That is the lot of power!

    Hi Mark. Thank you for posting an awesome tutorial for making these generators. I’m very excited about doing this project. which will be quite a new experience for me, but feel absolutely positive by your videos that I can do this. Lol I do have a question on batteries. I noticed that some of the high end made generators have the Lithium Iron batteries used. I know that they are less in weight and get more charges. but is there anything else I should know? If they are good to use. can you recommend one that holds a lot of power. This is all very new to me so I’d appreciate any wisdom and advice. Thnx… Tommie

    Hi Tommy, I am confident you can build it too! Yes, Lithium Ion batteries are much lighter and that is why most cordless power tools have switched over to them. They discharge at a much steadier voltage as well, but need additional electronics to monitor and protect them from overcharge and discharge. They are also more expensive, but another issue to check into before jumping over to them, is most solar charge controllers do not work well with them. I have not fully researched this side of things, because I wanted to keep the budget for the build within reach for more people.

    Mark, I attempted to send you and email yesterday, July 30 after inhaling your 6 videos. WOW! I am in AWE of your creativity, style and neatness. Do you respond to emails?

    Hi Joseph, no not currently, but I do go over every single connection in the wiring video. I may add a full schematic later but haven’t yet.

    Nice work Mark, I watched the video and surprisingly, I was able to follow along with everything you were saying I’m fixing to build one of these myself. There’s only one thing that I am thinking about changing and I’d like to get your feedback if possible. I am thinking about upgrading the non-solar charger from the listed 1.5A charger to a 7.2A charger shown here: http://a.co/4TSwToB Stephen Harris from battery1234.com says: “Harris Tip #4 Under NO circumstances would I go lower than a 6 amp battery charger. DO NOT buy 1 or 2 amp ‘trickle chargers’ EVER. They are not intelligent and they usually end up destroying a battery PLUS they NEVER have the ability to bring a discharged battery back up” The NOCO Genius G7200 12V/24V 7.2A UltraSafe Smart Battery Charger is a bit pricier, heavier and not as mount friendly, but I think it might provide a good option for AC charging. As someone who has actually built this thing, and thus has more experience with it than I do, do you forsee any problems coming from this substitution. Thanks again!

    Hi Chris, glad you liked the videos! The alternate AC charger you selected looks like a good product, and should work fine also. It is pricier, like you pointed out, but if you plan to recharge your batteries by plugging into existing AC a lot, it will recharge faster due to the higher output current. I am going to have to disagree with the guy you quoted stating that any 1 or 2 amp charger will destroy the battery. The product I used in the video is absolutely designed to be able to be connected all the time, and will not overcharge the battery. It is indeed automatic and will “float” the battery once it is fully charged. It currently has 4.5 out of 5 stars based on 623 reviews, so I cannot believe it destroys batteries. But the one you link is also good, and if a faster recharge rate is what you are looking for, give it a try! Good luck with the build!

    Having a hard time seeing all of the info on how to build one. Due you have any other way to see the info

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