Best Solar Panels for RV: A Complete Beginner’s Guide
A gimmick or free electricity on the road? We present you with the best solar panels for RV and answer the ultimate question: Are they worth it at all?
When I first saw solar panels slapped on an RV I immediately thought of one of my all-time childhood movies “Race the Sun”. It’s about teenagers who build their solar car to race across Australia.
Now, as a camping and RVing enthusiast, I realize that solar panels can’t power the RV but can make my trip much more convenient and sustainable.
But what sort of problems will solar panels solve in your RV?
Coupled with a capable solar battery, I use them to power the appliances and lighting in my RV. This allows me to camp away from crowded campsites and become fully independent of the grid.
What is more, it allows me to camp sustainably and offset the carbon emissions of my RV by using a renewable source of electricity.
Best Solar Panels for an RV or Camper Van: Electrical Engineer Reviews
Renogy 175 Watt 12 Volt Flexible Monocrystalline Solar Panel — Best Overall
Wattage: 175 watts | Panel Type: Monocrystalline | Water Resistance: IP67 | Weight: 6.2 lbs
The Renogy 175 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel has everything I expect from a top-shelf solar panel for RV use.
It weighs only 6.2 lbs so I confidently fixed six of these to my RV roof.
What is more, they are extremely flexible, so they’ll adapt to any trailer style. That’s a big consideration for me.
Scroll down to the Flexible vs. Rigid Solar Panels section to read my opinion, but in short, if you have the budget — go for flex.
The Renogy 175W has great solar efficiency thanks to transparent dots on the surface that capture sun rays even when coming at an angle.
In my use, even on a hazy day on Washington state shore, two of these panels provided well over 200 watts.
Why Do I Like It?
I glued four of these panels to my RV roof while the remaining two are movable — I use mounting eyelets to rig them on the trailer side that receives the most sunlight.
BLUETTI PV200 200W Solar — Runner up
Wattage: 200 watts | Panel Type: Monocrystalline | Water Resistance: IP65 | Weight: 16.1 lbs
Following excellent solar generators like the AC200P and the beastly EP500, Bluetti strikes back with a formidable portable solar panel kit that can make a perfect RV solar panel system.
On a bright sunny day, the Bluetti PV200 charges my AC200P solar generator in about 5 hours.
If you’re not big on DIY and mounting stuff, you’d be happy to hear that you can get these up and running in less than 30 seconds.
Unfold, connect, and prop it up.
Now, this can be a deal-breaker to some — there are no mounting eyelets or any other way to fix this panel permanently to your RV roof.
I guess you could glue it with silicone or use EternaBond tape, but since there’s no rim, you’ll have to cover some of the solar cells as well.
So why is this solar panel on the list at all?
Because not every camper needs a mini solar power plant on the roof. Most users only need to charge a few gadgets like a laptop, camera, phone, and drone.
These people use portable solar generators and pair them with portable solar panels, which they prop up on a sunny spot, while their RV stays in the shade.
Why Do I Like It?
Not all places are accessible by RV nor they should be. I can take these solar panels down to the beach and keep the party going.
Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Flexible Monocrystalline Solar Panel — Best Lightweight
Wattage: 100 watts | Panel Type: Monocrystalline | Water Resistance: IP67 | Weight: 4.2 lbs
Like its big brother, the Renogy Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel offers unmatched flexibility and weighs little more than 4 pounds.
This solar panel for RV is just 0.08 inches thick which is 90% thinner than any rigid solar panel in the 100-watt range.
The best way to fix this to your RV roof is to use silicone adhesive or EternaBond tape.
Like on the 175W version, there are six eyelets but they are too small for mounting screws.
So you best use them with rigging cords for non-mobile applications.
If you want lightweight and reliable RV solar panels that will power your basic devices, you won’t find a better-priced option.
Why Do I Like It?
These solar panels are just 48 x 21 inches which give me plenty of options to combine and mount them, either along or across the roof axis.
Jackery SolarSaga 100W Solar Panel — Most Versatile
Wattage: 100 watts | Panel Type: Monocrystalline | Water Resistance: IP65 | Weight: 9.1 lbs
They are reliable, compatible only with other Jackery products, and have an army of loyal customers.
Solar Saga 100W is beautifully designed, like every Jackery product. It folds in half and has two comfortable carrying handles in case I need to deploy them away from my RV.
Keep in mind that Solar Saga is a 100% portable solar panel, just like Renogy PV200.
This makes it perfect for boondockers who prefer to keep their vehicle in shade and need powering only a few essential gadgets.
I’ve used two Solar Saga 100W solar panels with Jackery Explorer 1000 and after 8 hours of charging I could run a mini fridge for 17 hours.
Unlike the Renogy PV200, this solar panel for RV comes with four mounting eyelets so you can fix it to your RV roof or side.
Unfortunately, these panels are only compatible with Jackery power stations.
Why Do I Like It?
Solar Saga 100W comes with USB-A and USB-C cables. In a pinch, I can charge my phone and laptop directly from the panel.
Renogy 800W 12V/24V Monocrystalline Solar Premium Kit — Best Premium
Wattage: 800 watts | Panel Type: Monocrystalline | Water Resistance: IP32 | Weight: 112.8 lbs
They packed eight rigid-frame 100-watt monocrystalline panels with the Rover 60A charge controller and a Bluetooth module.
With this kit on your RV roof, you’ll be able to harvest about 3.5-4 kWh of sunlight a day. The panels have a heat-dissipating back sheet that ensures smooth output performance without hotspots.
I was happy to discover that every panel comes with pre-drilled holes in the back frame and Z-brackets for mounting solar panels on the RV roof. When you mount it on the roof, this panel doesn’t go anywhere.
But it was the charge controller that sweetened the deal. If you have a large RV and want every convenience of a mobile home, Rover 60A allows you to slap another 8 solar panels and boost your system to 1600 watts!
Using the Renogy DC Home App I can always check what’s going on there, as the controller sends power data directly to my phone via Bluetooth.
This way I can always tell how much power is produced, how much I use, and even if there’s something wrong with the system. Pro-level baby!
Why Do I Like It?
Apart from making my RV virtually independent from the grid. These solar panels for RV make a great home outage solution. When the power goes out, just move to your RV and continue whatever you were doing.
Topsolar Solar Panel Kit 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Off Grid System — Best on Budget
Wattage: 100 watts | Panel Type: Monocrystalline | Water Resistance: IP65 | Weight: 15.8 lbs
When I saw the price range I was suspicious at first. Especially since you get all the cables, Z-brackets, and — listen to this — a 20A charge controller.
The heart of this system is a rigid-frame monocrystalline solar panel with a waterproof IP65-rated junction box.
It means your wiring is completely protected from dust particles and low-pressure water jets.
Still, as with all IP65-rated panels here, you don’t want to leave the junction box or connectors in the rain.
Remember: The panels are weatherproof but the rest of the equipment is not.
So why isn’t this solar panel for RV on the top of the list?
First, I wasn’t aware till I tried it that this charge controller works only with lead acid batteries. Also, the wiring connectors look and feel flimsy, so I don’t know when I’ll need to replace them.
On the other hand, the screws that hold charge controller wires in are so tiny and so tight that I can hardly unscrew them without stripping them.
All in all, with a few tweaks this could be a solid and inexpensive RV solar panel for someone getting into the world of solar power.
Why Do I Like It?
With a more versatile controller and new wiring, the Topsolar 100W solar panel can be an inexpensive building brick for a full-size RV solar system.
WindyNation 100 Watt Solar Panel Off-Grid RV Boat Kit — Budget Alternative
Wattage: 100 watts | Panel Type: Polycrystalline | Water Resistance: N/A| Weight: 19 lbs
The problem with these low-cost RV solar panels is that they often run out of stock. So if you can’t find a good deal on a Topsolar 100W panel, the next best choice in this category is the WindyNation 100 Watt Solar Panel.
This solar panel is even cheaper and comes with a better 30A charge controller, so you can add more solar panels in the future.
The P30L charge controller that is in the box can handle up to 4 x 100W solar panels in a 12V system and up to 8 x 100W panels in a 24V system.
On the downside, when my panel arrived, it came without any connectors and mounting hardware.
I’ve emailed customer service and they sent the missing stuff with no questions asked.
Still, I had to buy at least two fuse holders and fuses (automotive ATC-type will do) and the 30-amp gauge wires to connect the P30L to your battery bank.
Why Do I Like It?
If you want to stick a couple of solar panels on your RV roof that will survive whatever weather throws at them and still have enough money for the next 3 road trips, these are the panels for you. Just keep that electric gear tucked inside.
What Are RV Solar Panels?
RV solar panels are similar to home solar panels. But instead of powering your home, they use the power of the sun to charge your RV battery.
When your RV is on the road or parked in a sunny spot, the solar panels on the roof absorb energy from the sun.
Then you can use the RV battery to power lights and small appliances in your camper.
If you add more batteries that the solar panels can charge, you have more electricity available when camping.
Do You Need To Use RV-specific Solar Panels?
Whatever vendors want you to believe, there is no such thing as RV panels. Many companies market their products as RV solar panels but only because those panels are suitable for RV use.
These include both portable solar panels which have multiple ways of permanent or semi-permanent attaching to your RV roof as well as flexible solar panels that you can fix flat to curved surfaces and reduce the drag whale on road. Flexible solar panels are a bigger investment but provide a higher ROI back with high-efficiency rates.
I also want to say that solar panels are not a magic pill.
Not so Free Energy
This “free” and clean power sounds much better than the fuel generator.
But when I say free I mean the sunshine. The hardware can be quite expensive. Sure, of solar equipment have gotten a bit more reasonable in recent years, but if you want quality, you still need to pay a hefty sum.
You need a couple of pairs of 100-watt panels, and deep-cycle solar batteries to store power and charge the controller that keeps them from overcharging. Then there’s the inverter that turns the DC power into AC power that most appliances use.
When you add those up, you can be looking at a 1,500 investment up front.
Also, collecting solar power is much more complicated than hooking up to shore power at a campsite. You need to know how much power you need on a daily basis and size your system accordingly.
No Shade Where I’m Going
It also means you’ll have to park in full sunshine for most of the day. In other words, you can forget about parking your RV in a nicely shaded campsite where you can throw a barbie and pass a few cold ones.
Don’t get me wrong, solar power is great and worth the investment, especially if you like to boondock on public land away from the grid.
It’s just that for the most part, if you want the maximum power, you need to:
Connecting Solar Panels Together
Connecting solar panels together is a simple and effective way of increasing your solar power capabilities. Going green is a great idea, and as the sun is our ultimate power source, it makes sense to utilize this energy to power our homes. As solar power becomes more accessible, more and more homeowners are buying photovoltaic solar panels.
However, these photovoltaic solar panels can be very costly so buying them over time helps to spread the cost. But the problem then becomes how do we connect these extra solar panels together to increase the voltage and power output of what’s already there.
The trick here when connecting solar panels together is to choose a connection method that is going to give you the most energy efficient configuration for your particular requirements.
Connecting solar panels together can seem like a daunting task when you first start to look at how it should be done, but connecting multiple solar panels together is not that hard with a little thought. Wiring solar panels together in either parallel or series combinations to make larger arrays is an often overlooked, yet completely essential part of any well designed solar power system.
There are three basic but very different ways of connecting solar panels together and each connection method is designed for a specific purpose. For example, to produce more output voltage or to produce more current.
Solar photovoltaic panels can be electrically connected together in series to increase the voltage output, or they can be connected together in parallel to increase the output amperage. Solar pv panels can also be wired together in both series and parallel combinations to increase both the output voltage and current to produce a higher wattage array.
Whether you are connecting two or more solar panels, as long as you understand the basic principles of how connecting multiple solar panels together increases power and how each of these wiring methods works, you can easily decide on how to wire your own panels together. After all connecting solar panels together correctly can greatly improve the efficiency of your solar system.
Connecting Solar Panels Together in Series
The first method we will look at for connecting solar panels together is what’s known as “Series Wiring“. The electrical connection of solar panels in series increases the total system ouput voltage. Series connected solar panels are generally used when you have a grid connected inverter or charge controller that requires 24 volts or more. To series wire the panels together you connect the positive terminal to the negative terminal of each panel until you are left with a single positive and negative connection.
Solar panels in series add up or sum the voltages produced by each individual panel, giving the total output voltage of the array as shown.
Solar Panels in Series of Same Characteristics
In this method ALL the solar panels are of the same type and power rating. The total voltage output becomes the sum of the voltage output of each panel. Using the same three 6 volt, 3.0 amp panels from above, we can see that when these pv panels are connected together in series, the array will produce an ouput voltage of 18 Volts (6 6 6) at 3.0 Amperes, giving 54 Watts (volts x amps) at full sun.
Now lets look at connecting solar panels in series with different nominal voltages but with identical current ratings.
Solar Panels in Series of Different Voltages
In this method all the solar panels are of different types and power rating but have a common current rating. When they are connected together in series, the array produces 21 volts at 3.0 amps, or 63 watts. Again the output amperage will remain the same as before at 3.0 amps but the voltage output jumps to 21 volts (5 7 9).
Finally, lets look at connecting solar panels in series with completely different nominal voltages and different current ratings.
Solar Panels in Series of Different Currents
In this method all the solar panels are of different types and power rating. The individual panel voltages will add together as before, but this time the amperage will be limited to the value of the lowest panel in the series string, in this case 1 Ampere. Then the array will produce 19 Volts (3 7 9) at 1.0 Ampere only, or only 19 watts out of a possible 69 watts available reducing the arrays efficiency.
We can see that the solar panel rated at 9 volts, 5 amps, will only use one fifth or 20% of its maximum current potential reducing its efficiency and wasting money on the purchase of this solar panel. Connecting solar panels in series with different current ratings should only be used provisionally, as the solar panel with the lowest rated current determines the current output of the whole array.
Connecting Solar Panels Together in Parallel
The next method we will look at of connecting solar panels together is what’s known as “Parallel Wiring“. Connecting solar panels together in parallel is used to boost the total system current and is the reverse of the series connection. For parallel connected solar panels you connect all the positive terminals together (positive to positive) and all of the negative terminals together (negative to negative) until you are left with a single positive and negative connection to attach to your regulator and batteries.
When you connect solar panels together in parallel, the total voltage output remains the same as it would for a single panel, but the output current becomes the sum of the output of each panel as shown.
Solar Panels in Parallel of Same Characteristics
In this method ALL the solar panels are of the same type and power rating. Using the same three 6 Volt, 3.0 Amp panels as above, the total output of the panels, when connected together in parallel, the output voltage still remains at the same value of 6 volts, but the total amperage has now increased to 9.0 Amperes (3 3 3), producing 54 watts at full sun.
But what if our newly acquired solar panels are non-identical, how will this affect the other panels. We have seen that the currents add together, so no real problem there, just as long as the panel voltages are the same and the output voltage remains constant. Lets look at connecting solar panels in parallel with different nominal voltages and different current ratings.
Solar Panels in Parallel with Different Voltages and Currents
Here the parallel currents add up as before but the voltage adjusts to the lowest value, in this case 3 volts or some voltage value very close to 3 volts. Solar panels must have the same output voltage to be useful in parallel. If one panel has a higher voltage it will supply the load current to the degree that its output voltage drops to that of the lower voltage panel.
We can see that the solar panel rated at 9 volts, 5 amps, will only operate at a maximum voltage of 3 volts as its operation is being influenced by the smaller panel, reducing its efficiency and wasting money on the purchase of this higher power solar panel. Connecting solar panels in parallel with different voltage ratings is not recommended as the solar panel with the lowest rated voltage determines the voltage output of the whole array.
Then when connecting solar panels together in parallel it is important that they ALL have the same nominal voltage value, but it is not necessary that they have the same ampere value.
Connecting Solar Panels Together Summary
Connecting solar panels together to form bigger arrays is not all that complicated. How many series or parallel strings of panels you make up per array depends on what amount of voltage and current you are aiming for. If you are designing a 12 volt battery charging system than parallel wiring is perfect. If you are looking at a higher voltage grid connected system, than you’re probably going to want to go with a series or series-parallel combination depending on the number of solar panels you have.
But for a simple reference in regards to how to connect solar panels together in either parallel or series wiring configurations, just remember that parallel wiring = more amperes, and series wiring = more voltage, and with the right type and combination of solar panels you can power just about any electrical device you may have in your home.
For more information about Connecting Solar Panels Together in either series or parallel combinations, or to obtain more information about the different types of solar panels available, or to explore the advantages and disadvantages of using solar power in your home, then Click Here to order your copy from Amazon today and learn more about designing, wiring and installing off-grid photovoltaic solar electric systems in your home.
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0 Комментарии и мнения владельцев already about “ Connecting Solar Panels Together ”
I have read on the web that there should be a diode (blocking reverse flow of current) inserted between PV panels arranged in parallel. I have two small 12v panels (50W 30W) and I want to chain them in parallel to get 80W @ 12v. Do I have to put a diode somewhere in the wiring between the panels and the battery? Or just between the two panels?
Hi I have 4.2 kw controller(ups) and 8 solar panel of 545 watt each. each panel 48 volt. each panel current is 10 amp at its peak Now. i have a question How can i arrange these panels to get max output? If i put 6 panel in series and 2 panel in parallel then connect these together. what is my output ? I require max output Kindly guide me
hello some advice please i have 4 x 235w panels voc 37v rated 29.5v to power 4 x 130 ah wet battery bank wired series and parallel via a 100amp mppt controller and 24v 6000w invertor would i be better off wiring the panels in parallel or series thanks for your help and advice
Please I have 2 Panels 270Watts each, connected to a charge controller that charges a 12Volts 200AH battery. I just bought another 2 Panels 300Watts each to be connected together with the existing system. I am thinking if I pair 270W panel with 300 W panel in series before connecting them all in parallel will reduce the loss?
We expect that there would be very little difference in the I-V characteristics between your 270W and 300W panels, as there is such a small difference in wattage, 270W compared to 300W. Thus the Vmp and Voc voltages would be very similar. But the Imp and Isc values would be more different. Then 2 x 270W in one series string, and 2 x 300W in a second series string, with both strings in parallel. That way the voltages would balance out but you would still get different branch currents relating to the wattages.
Currently, I have a 24v system with 24v panels connected in parallel. I want to step down to 12v system without changing the 24v panels, I just want to buy one 12v panel and connect in parallel. 1) What is the effect of 12v panel besides reducing the voltage output of other 24v panels to 12v? 2) Would the 24v panels retain their qualities in case I return to the 24v system after a few years?
1) It does not work like that. Your output would be around 18 volts and your 24 volt panels would be feeding current directly into the smaller 12 volt panel due to such a large mismatch. 2) Probably not, as they would deteriorate over time anyway, and would see your 12 volt panel as the load
Ok. Can I step the 24v panels down to 12v using my PMT 12v/24v Charge control? I want to scale down to 12v without throwing my active panels into the bin.
Hi If I got 2 x 200w Omega OSP201 Panels connected in series VOC – 22.2; SCC(A) – 8,6; VMP(v) – 18; Max VMP – 8,11 Connected to 2×180 amp/h batt in Paralel with 2000w Pure Sine inverter and 20 Amp Solar control charger. Is it the correct way? Thank you, I’m following
I have 24 x 230 W 37 volt 7.8 Amp panels. In order to fit these panels into my all-in-one EGR 120/240 6000 inverter I have to have a 500 volt max. I believe the only way to meet the 500VOC max requirement, I would need to wire 12 panels in Series and 12 panels in Parallel giving me 12 x 7.8 = 93.6 amps and 37 volts in Parallel 12 x 37 Volts = 444 Volts and 7.8 Amps in Series Can I combine the 2 Arrays?
12 panels in parallel with 12 panels in series, No. 12 panels in one series string equals 444 volts, and 2 series strings in parallel (12S2P) equals 15.6 (7.8 7.8) amperes.
If I connect two 18v panels in series creating 36v output, then connect this array in parallel with two other 36v panels, if one of the 18v series panels is in shade, how will it affect the total output.
The connection solar Panels was useful to me, so I am saying thank you, and hope to learn more from you
Hi I have a few 70 volt solar panels and they are very low amperage, I want to Connect to batteries however don’t as yet have an inverter, how are inverters rated and are there inverters that will take high voltages and give 12volt battery Charging Outputs,? I see many 12 volt and 24 volt inverters but cant seem to find one that accepts 70 plus volts input, these panels were sold with LED lights and i was told to connect 3 lights to one panel and they will act as day time down lights but there is no voltage on the light fittings and was told less than 3 lights will be too little and the panels out put would blow them up, so I decided not to operate this way as it sounds unsafe instead I want to use the panels to Charge batteries but the High voltage output is Confusing as other panels I used had 6-12 volt output not 70 volts
It seems you are confused. Solar Charge Controllers, also called Battery Charge Controllers take the voltage and current generated by photovoltaic panel(s), and/or wind turbine generators and produce a standard output voltage of between 12 to 48 volts DC (depending on model) used to charge a single battery or a larger battery bank. The configuration and wattage of any connected pv panel, or array would depend on the DC input characteristics of the contorller. Inverters take the DC voltage and convert or invert (hence their name) it into AC mains voltage and power, either single-phase 240V or 3-phase for use in the home or to feed the incoming mains power. Thus you would have two different controllers, one to produce the required DC voltage, 12V, 24V, etc. from the panels and another to create the higher mains AC voltage for the home. Nowadays, there are all-in-one MPPT Solar Regulators or System Voltage Controllers which have both units within one controller. Again, the DC input and power rating of the regulator will decide how you configure your panels, or array.
Thanks for that one last question the panels are 67.9v at 1.07 amps and 72.5 watts how is the best way to wire them all in Parallel, or 3 in series 3 in series then both sets of 3 in Parallel? I am thinking all 6 in Parallel from my Understanding is there a calculation for the best size Battery or number of Batteries that this will Charge? Thank you for your assistance
If your panels are rated at 70 watts each, and you state you have 6. Then that gives a total of 6 x 70 = 420 watts. This 420 watts is ONLY available during “full sun” conditions, about 4 to 5 hours per day. Thus assuming 4 hours gives 4 x 420 = 1680 watt-hours per day. Since its a DC system, watts are equal to volt-amperes (VA) in this case. Thus you have 1680 VA per day max. Assuming a 12 volt system, that equates to 1680/12 = 140 amp-hours per day max. Assuming a 50% depth of charge per day, then you would need a 280 Amp-hour battery. That is, your battery discharges to 50% capacity each day, and your panels recharge it during the 4 hours of full sun. Clearly, system losses and efficiency are not considered here.
I have two 100ah 12v batteries connected in parallel. I have a 100 watt thunderbolt solar kit connected to both batteries. I plan to add another 100w solar panel kit. Should I connect each solar kit to both batteries or connect one kit to a single battery and the other kit to the other battery?
Solar kit implies panel and charge controller. Then it is not advisable to connect two or more charge controllers to the same battery terminals as they will compete against each other and the battery bank may not be charged or protected correctly. Instead connect all the pv panels to the input of one battery charge controller.
not connect in paralel,you just connect your batteris in series and connect the pannels in series in order to increase the current,your system will run perfectly
Incorrect information. Series connection increases voltage, not current. He has a 12 volt system, not a 24 volt system
Hi there,I have 2x 330w in parallel with 36v,20a output.Can I run this through a 24v, 20amp. 440 watt voltage inverter/dropper/converter??
Please bear with me, I man not a total newby, but I do still have a lot to learn about this… I am changing / adding to my RV solar system. It currently has a single panel that I think is 175 watt with a 30 amp PWM controller and 2 12-volt 100 AH RV batteries that were not properly maintained and need to be replaced. Controller and batteries will get changed out, as I change/add panels on the roof and upgrade the wiring to the controllers and battery bank. I want to build the system so I can add to it in equal increments as I discover just how much power I need and if needs change. (Unit not yet in my possession so I don’t know exactly how I will be consuming power.) My original plan was to build the system with three 200-watt panels and a 60 amp MPPT controller (or 2 panels and a 40 amp controller), keeping everything balanced and add to the system in these increments. I have plenty of room for controllers and batteries, with a fair amount of room on the roof and plan on using Tilt Brackets to maximize collector exposure This is where I fall down…. Panels in Series or Parallel? Parallel would give me 27 volts. Series would give me 81 volts. I would really like to stay with 12-volt system so I don’t have to change anything else in the RV, Can this be done with the higher voltage / lower current feeds from the panels? Will the controllers be able to take the higher voltage and adjust accordingly or should I go with the lower voltage and higher current? Also, I don’t yet know at what my Charger/Inverter is rated at so I may have to change that as well. At this point the only thing I have purchased is batteries that were removed from my previous RV’s system. These are FLA 6-volt GC2 batteries that were connected in series/parallel giving me 12 volts, 420 AH (allowing for a 50% draw-down), giving me 210 AH. I will eventually switch over to Li Batteries and add additional cells as the system increases I am considering 200 Watt panels, up to 2000 watts MAX. The manufacturers spec’s on these panels have a Voc of 27 volts, Short Circuit Current of 9.66 amps. In your opinion, would I be better to consider more panels with a lower wattage (100 watts) or continue with the 200 watt panels? This is a large RV and mostly Boondocking / Dry Camping expected for 1 night stays and up to 2 weeks or more. (I have a portable generator, but would prefer to use it only when necessary).
The size of chosen panels would depend on the available installation space as 2 x 100W panels would take up about 40% more area than one single 200W panel. The configuration of your 2kW array would depend on the DC input characteristics of your charge controller. Higher voltage and lower current would be the preferred option as lower current means smaller diameter cables. Your 60 amp MPPT controller may have a DC input voltage of 150VDC, then your panels Voc of 27 volts would mean 5 panels in one series string (5 x 27 = 135V) and two parallel branches (5S2P) giving a Isc of 19.32 amperes (2 x 9.66) for your 2kW (10 x 200W) array. Clearly, you would need to consult your charge controllers specifications first.
I have 12 – 250 Watt solar pannels. Voc 37.6 and Rated current 8.27 Amps I have a 80A MPPT solar charge controller wit a Max PV input 2000W (Max. PV Array OV). I Have 24V 3KVA, with input voltage 65-140VAC/95-140VAC. Wich would be the ideal way to set up the solar panels to produce the most for my battey bulk and inverter?
We assume you have bought the solar items you have bought for a reason because you have some knowledge or have been previously advised. If not or you have no idea what you are doing but want us to tell you. Clearly, a 250W panel is for 24 volt battery charging. Thus 2000/24 = 83 amperes as you have stated. Then you need a 48 volt system with 6 branches of two panels per string. This would give a maximum array Voc of 75.2 volts, and a maximum array current of 50 amperes.
I have two panel 545 watt and one panel 150 watt l have 2.8 kva inverter 24watt how I connect these panel serial or parallel.
Clearly with such a large mismatch between panels, you cannot use the 150W panel with the two 545W panels.
All is spoken and all is said ,but I just want to know we have six 150watts panels,a 60A charge controller and 4 200A batteries which right way would you recommend us to use in connecting the panels and the batteries /which installation style will give something that is better that we may be able to use a 240-300 volts inverter and 60 12volts bulbs
You have 6 x 150 watt panels. Then you have a total of 900 watts maximum at full sun, no matter how you connect them. 150W panels are for charging 12 volt batteries, thus their Vmp is usually about 18 volts. 3 x 18 = 54 volts plus 25% for Voc equals about 68 volts. If your 60A charge controller can handle a maximum DC input of 68 volts, then 3 panels in a series string, and 2 parallel branches (3S2P). If not, 2S3P. Your 12 volt light bulbs will require a 12 volt supply from the 12 volt batteries. Then your 4 batteries are connected in parallel.
If both solar panels (120w and 200w) have a charge controller fitted do I need to remove one of them to charge two 12v 105A batteries
Each panel can be used to charge a single battery. But as the characteristics of each panel is different, each battery will charge at a different rate.
or join the the wiring below the two controllers to the battery bank. in this way should one panel, controller or wiring fail, the other panel will carry the load
Hi I have 8 solar panel of 545 watt each. each panel 48 volt. each panel current is 10 amp at its peak Now. i have a question How can i arrange these panels to get max output? If i put 6 panel in series and 2 panel in parallel then connect these together. what is my output ? I require max output Kindly guide me
I have 3x 215 watt panels victron. using a 50amp victron controller i will be fusing a 50amp from controller to battery.can you tell me do i need to fuse each panel to controller or can i just use one fuse.which size fuse.plus what would you recommend series or parallel.many thanks.
215 watt panels are generally for 24v systems, thus have an output voltage of around 36 volts. 215w/36v equals about 6 Amperes. 3 in series equals about 108 volts (check panel specs for max Voc). If you controller can handle upto 120VDC input go series at 6 amps. If not 3 in parallel at 36 volts, 18 amps at full sun. For series, obviously one fuse. For parallel, one fuse per branch (panel) if you want, or just one for the whole set.
If I have two solar pannes of same voltage(18v×2) but different amperes(80w,120w) and I use two different charge controller on one battery of 150AH.will my connection add up as expected?
Solar Charge Controller 50 amp 48V
This new intelligent 48v Solar Panel Charge Controller can handle max 100V input power and has a 12V/24V/36V48V auto Identification system.
Features of WP 48V Solar Charge Controller 50 Amp
POWERFUL 50A Solar Charge Controller : Our reliable and efficient 50 Amp PWM Charge Controller Support Lead-acid Battery and LiFeP04 Battery Charging and Discharging, It Also Can Work From Solar Panels when the Voltage of the Lithium Battery is 0 (Zero) V, 12V 24V, 36V 48V Auto to realized the Most Use of Solar Energy
COMPACT DESIGN : This Solar Controller Size is 7.95 × 5.2 × 2.4 In, equipped with Efficient Cooling Fins, Built-in Temperature Probe for Temperature Compensation, Limited Lightning Protection
EASY TO USE: LCD Display with Backlight Function (Easy Read in a Dark Place), Simple Button Operation, LCD Display Indicate Battery Power, Voltage, Current and Charge discharge Status, Daily Power Statistics, Adjustable Charging and Discharging Control Parameters – it’s really that simple.
FEATURES YOU’LL LOVE: Accumulated Amper Hours, Various Load Mode and Working Mode, General 24-Hour Working Mode, Light Control Mode, Light Control Delay Mod, Light Control delay Morning light Mode, and Reverse-Light Control Mode
ULTRA-PROTECTION: Our Charge Controller is designed to provide the Most Safety Experience to the Customer with That Protection: Load overcurrent/short-circuit protection, Battery over-discharge/overvoltage/low voltage protection, Solar panel/Battery reverse connect protection, and Battery Reverse Discharge Protection. It also has a Charge Current Protection feature that Most Controllers in the Market Do Not Have – order today to enjoy Solar Power.
During the installation and usage, please obey the following safety regulations and notices to avoid damage to the controller.
Get the tools and cables ready. Use an appropriate line to ensure that the current density is less than
Temperature increases when components work. Please install the controller in a flat, well-ventilated environment.
In the wiring process, please connect the battery first (ensure the correct identification of the battery voltage level), then connect the solar panel. After the controller completes the battery voltage lever identification, manually close the load output of the controller and connect the controller at last.
For safety reasons, do not use solar panels that exceed the rated current of the solar controller; do not connect the load overcurrent; do not use an AC / DC switching power supply instead of solar panels to secure the controller.
Notes for the Lithium Solar Charge Controller
When using this lithium solar charge controller to charge a lithium-ion battery in an environment below 32℉, your lithium battery must have a low-temperature working function.
The Solar controllers do not have the equalizing function for the lithium battery. So, the lithium battery must have a built-in voltage-equalizing function.
Please connect the controller in the right order. otherwise, damage may occur
When removing the cables, please in reverse order.
Max PV Array Input Voltage / Watts (Battery Voltage): 24V/800W(12V), 48V/1500W(24V), 70V/3500W (48V)
Technical Parameters of 48v solar panel charge controller
50 amp solar charge controller Rated Current:50A
Please Note:
The controller is defaulted to charge lead-acid batteries, and the battery type is not automatically identified. You should adjust it manually if you want to charge lithium batteries. Please refer to the manual for the setting.
The total voltage of the solar panel cannot exceed 50V in 12V/24V charging mode.
The total voltage of the solar panel should be at most 100V in 12V/24V/36V/48V mode.
If you have more than one panel and are not sure how to connect, you can consult us or referring the manuals to avoid burning the controller by connecting it wrongly,
Normally:
For charging a 12V battery, generally use the panel with a working voltage of about 18V
Charge 24V battery, generally use the panel with a working voltage of about 36V
Charge 48V battery, generally use the panel with a working voltage of about 72V
Download 48V Solar Charge Controller Manual.
Note: The user Manual for this 48V Solar Charge Controller is available for download on Download Center
This Product support ODM and Private Label Product Customization. Contact zhcsolar to ask.
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The Best Off-Grid Solar Systems of 2023
Check out our picks for the best off-grid solar systems that you can buy today and compare features, pricing and more.
Despite the rise of grid-tied solar systems. off-grid solar panels continue to be in demand. The best off-grid solar systems offer an easy way to power remote cabins, camper vans and nearly everything that lies or ventures outside grid coverage.
We at the Guides Home Team have conducted hours of market research and reviewed dozens of products to create a reliable list of the best off-grid solar systems. We based each pick on our in-depth solar methodology, which focuses on key factors like system components, price and warranties to help you find the best fit for your off-grid solar project.
Offers 7 solar panel brands Partners with Enphase for battery options Helps customers enroll in savings programs
Off-Grid vs. On-Grid Solar Systems
You can utilize solar power through off-grid or grid-tied (or on-grid) systems. Although both systems technically work the same way, the difference lies in whether you connect your panels to the local electricity grid. While off-grid systems still use solar panels to produce energy, they rely on batteries to store excess production rather than sending it back to the grid, as with a conventional (or grid-tied) home solar system. You can use that stored energy to power your devices in remote locations. Grid-tied systems are more common today since the majority of the population lives in the coverage area of an electric grid. However, off-grid solar is often the only option if you plan to power a cabin in the woods, a recreational vehicle (RV) or even boats.
Pros and Cons of Going Off-Grid
- Creates access to usable energy regardless of grid coverage
- Easier to set up than standard solar systems (no permits or regulatory requirements)
- Ready-to-install kits eliminate the need for an electrical contractor (in most cases)
- Portable solar panel options
- Offers flexible applications (can be used on a tiny house, campervan, boat, etc.)
- Smaller in size and cheaper than conventional systems
Cons of Off-Grid Solar
- Solar batteries are almost always necessary
- You cannot benefit from net metering and other financial incentives
- Large systems can be difficult to set up (most DIY kits are small in size)
What To Look For in an Off-Grid Solar System
There are a few factors to consider when shopping for an off-grid power system.
- Your energy needs: Your system needs to generate enough energy to offset your consumption. You can estimate your energy usage by totaling the expected loads of each appliance and electrical device you plan to run, or you can use an online solar calculator.
- Cost and kit: Try to find a balance between the cost of a kit and its features. Look for higher efficiency, Smart features and reasonable pricing.
- Installation: The best kits are simple to install. You can look for kits that are “plug-and-play” by design. Each kit should also come with a detailed solar installation manual.
- Batteries and storage capacity: Look for modern, high-efficiency batteries. preferably lithium batteries. Also, the higher a battery’s storage capacity, the longer you can run your devices and appliances.
- Additional equipment needed: A proper system needs more than just solar panels and batteries. Look for kits that come with all the necessary equipment bundled together, including cables, cable ties, connectors, etc.
- Warranty on the kit: As a general rule, the longer the warranty on any solar product, the better. The industry standard is a 10-year product warranty for panels and a 25-year performance guarantee.
Compare Off-Grid Solar Systems
Top 5 Off-Grid Solar Systems of 2023
Renogy 400 W 12 V Complete Solar Kit
- Our rating: 5 out of 5 stars
- Cost: 1,700
- Power output: 400 W
- Warranty: 5-year material and workmanship warranty and 25-year performance guarantee
Renogy is popular among off-grid enthusiasts for offering solar kits that combine reliability and affordability. The 400 W kit includes everything needed for an off-grid solar array of this size, including four high-efficiency, monocrystalline solar panels and two 100 amp-hour batteries for ample energy storage (you can pick between AGM or lithium-ion batteries).
The kit also includes modern controllers with digital displays, a basic but reliable 1,000 W inverter, and all the necessary cables, fasteners and connectors. Renogy claims this unit can generate up to 2 kilowatt-hours (kWh) each day — sufficient for a small cabin or a camper.
Cons Basic package does not include batteries or an inverter Some online reviews complain about missing kit components and instruction manuals
- 4x 100 W monocrystalline solar panels (compact design)
- 2x 100 amp-hour batteries (AGM or lithium-ion phosphate)
- MPPT charge controller
- Inverter
- Bluetooth modules (for performance monitoring)
- Battery monitor with shunt
- System fuses, branch connectors and cables
- Mounting equipment
Why we picked it: Renogy’s complete off-grid solar kit offers affordable pricing at less than 5 per watt. Plus, it offers some of the best solar panels on the market — with solar cells that can reach up to 22% efficiency. We also like how comprehensive this kit is, with every small component included.
altE Off-Grid 300 W Base Kit
altE’s base kit comes in a handy 300 W size, which includes two monocrystalline solar panels and offers unique customization options. You can choose between an AGM battery or a lithium battery. If you want to install a more permanent system, you can also choose between roof-mounting or pole-mounting racking equipment.
The kit is quite affordable in its basic form, costing just over 1,100. altE also rightly calls it a “cabin kit” since it is a perfect fit for small-sized off-grid cabins.
Pros Customizable options, including the battery bank Offers system mounting racks Affordable pricing
- 2x 150 W monocrystalline solar panels
- PWM charge controller
- Inverter
- Combiner box
- Connector cables, surge protection device, mount breakers and other components
- Optional battery bank (AGM or lithium-ion)
- Optional mounting equipment
Why we picked it: The altE 300 W Base Kit offers essential solar equipment (batteries not included) and mounting options to power your cabin. Its monocrystalline solar panels and AGM and lithium battery add-on options offer modern technology for reasonable pricing. But the best highlight of this kit is its customizability, especially with roof and pole mount racking options.
Goal Zero Yeti 1000X Boulder 200
Goal Zero is considered one of the best portable solar product companies. Its robust, high-quality solar panels and generators have taken the off-grid world by storm. The Yeti 1000X and Boulder 200 briefcase combo offers a rugged, portable off-grid kit for those who need power on all sorts of outdoor adventures.
A foldable, briefcase design makes your solar panels easy to carry and store. And the solar generator comes with an integrated battery, inverter and ready-to-use ports.
- Power station
- 2x 100 W briefcase solar panels
- Solar panel carry case
- 120 W power supply
- Combiner and extension cables
Why we picked it: Goal Zero’s kit offers exceptional simplicity of use along with incredible portability. It eliminates excess connectors, cables and all the effort needed to wire a system. You simply plug the panel cable into the generator, and it charges the battery. Similarly, you can just plug your appliance directly into one of the generator’s ports, like using a wall unit.
WindyNation Complete 100 W
- Our rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars
- Cost:644
- Power output: 100 W
- Warranty: 5 years for solar panels, 1 year for all other components and a 25-year performance guarantee
If you don’t need to run a dozen appliances on your solar kit, WindyNation’s 100 W package offers a basic output without breaking the bank. The kit comes with a 100 W monocrystalline solar panel, an AGM battery, a pure sine wave inverter and other miscellaneous components.
The kit has no Smart components or outstanding features, but it manages to compile all the minimum necessities into one affordable package.
- 1x 100 W monocrystalline solar panel
- 1x 100 amp-hour AGM 12 V battery
- Charge controller with an LCD display and user adjustable settings
- Inverter
- Solar and battery cables
- Solar mounting hardware
Why we picked it: Not all buyers are looking for a full-fledged system that can run fridges, TVs and other appliances. The WindyNation 100 W kit can power a few lights and a fan for a small cabin or boat. It is also easy to connect and relatively inexpensive.
Eco-Worthy 4800 W 48 V Kit
Not everyone needs a small off-grid kit —some people may need enough power to sustain a large cabin full of modern appliances. Eco-Worthy’s 4,800 W kit offers plenty of power to keep a modern cabin running continuously. This system is so well-specced that it can provide backup power to run your whole house for a few hours.
While typical grid-tied solar systems with batteries often cost tens of thousands of dollars, this kit bundles everything into one neat package for less than 10,000.
Cons May require some expertise to install May be too large for some off-grid applications (like camping or small cabin use)
- 24x 195 W monocrystalline solar panel
- All-in-one inverter and MPPT solar charge controller
- 4x 50 amp-hour 48 V lithium batteries
- Cables, connectors and other wiring components
- Mounting brackets
Why we picked it: Eco-Worthy’s off-grid home solar kit bridges the gap between smaller kits and full-fledged solar systems without costing a fortune.
Main Components of an Off-Grid System
While specific components will vary by company, most off-grid solar system kits include the following:
- Solar panels:The most important component of an off-grid solar system is the solar panels. Also known as photovoltaic (PV) modules, solar panels convert sunlight into electricity, which then flows through your system’s wiring and provides power. There are different types of solar panels. including monocrystalline and polycrystalline, for home and off-grid applications.
- Inverter: Most household appliances operate on alternating current (AC), while solar panels generate direct current (DC). An inverter converts the DC power from your panels and battery into AC power, which allows you to use solar energy for your appliances.
- Battery: Batteries store excess energy that your panels generate during the day to supply electricity at night, on cloudy days or during power outages. While all batteries store energy, different types of batteries (such as lithium-ion or lead-acid batteries) are suited for different solar needs.
- Solar charge controller: Power flowing from your solar panels to the battery can fluctuate, reducing your battery’s charging efficiency and even lowering its usable life. A charge controller optimizes the incoming current and voltage, boosting efficiency and safeguarding battery cells. It can also prevent your batteries from overcharging.
- Miscellaneous components: Any solar power system requires several small components to operate correctly, including cables, nuts, bolts, connectors, fuses, etc. These components are sometimes known as the Balance of System (BoS).
The Bottom Line
Off-grid solar systems offer an excellent power source when you don’t have access to the grid, making them popular among campers and people looking to power tiny homes or cabins. They are also a great way to power appliances in an outhouse or food truck, helping to lessen your reliance on a traditional utility company.
There are dozens of off-grid kits available on the market, each offering a different set of component specifications and features. No single kit is the overall best — you will need to consider specific parameters depending on your needs.
For instance, the Goal Zero bundle is a superb option if you plan to connect, disconnect and move your system. Similarly, the Windynation 100 W is perfect for someone looking for a very basic kit costing a few hundred bucks. Alternatively, the Eco-Worthy 4800 W kit is a good choice for larger applications that require maximum power or home battery backup.
Ultimately, the most important thing is to understand your own requirements, then narrow down a few options and choose based on system features, warranties and cost. If you are looking for a more permanent solar option, check out our guide to the top solar companies for residential use.
Frequently Asked Questions About Off-Grid Solar Panel Systems
How big of a solar system do I need for off-grid usage?
A one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t work with solar power systems. The system size you need will depend on your energy consumption. You can use an online calculator to figure this out or do some basic calculations. Based on your calculation, you can select the appropriate system size and features. Here’s an example of energy calculations:
| TV | 120 W | 4 hours | 480 kWh |
| Laptop | 80 W | 5 hours | 400 kWh |
| Lights | 60 W | 6 hours | 360 kWh |
Based on the above figures, your total energy usage would be around 1.94 kWh, which converts to 129 W. So for this example, the Goal Zero Yeti 1000X Boulder 200 or altE Off-Grid 300 W Base Kit systems would supply enough energy to meet consumption needs.
What is the most efficient off-grid power source?
Energy sources have different efficiencies, ranging from 10% to 90%. Solar power converts light to electricity at an efficiency of around 20%. Since a solar panel’s input (sunlight) is readily available in most places and easy to convert, off-grid solar is better than most other options, like wind energy.
Is an on-grid or off-grid solar system best for powering a home?
On-grid and off-grid systems serve different purposes, so we cannot label one as the best. Off-grid systems are useful in situations that do not require a power grid, such as camping. But since on-grid solar panels connect to the local power grid, they are generally better suited for homeowners looking to lower electricity bills.
Is an off-grid solar kit worth it?
If you are looking to power a camper, cabin or tiny home, an off-grid solar system is worth it unless you have another readily available and cheap source of electricity. Off-grid systems are relatively simple in terms of installation and use, offer a long service life and can help reduce your carbon footprint and lower electricity costs.
Where can I buy an off-grid solar panel kit?
You can purchase an off-grid solar power kit online by visiting the retailer’s website. You can also look on websites like Amazon or other online marketplaces. While most DIY solar kits are ideal for beginners, more advanced systems may require professional installation.
Methodology: Our System for Ranking the Best Off-Grid Solar Systems
Aniket Bhor is a solar engineer who has spent nearly a decade studying and working in the solar power sector in the European, Asian and North American markets. He is a climate enthusiast and avid cyclist, and he also loves to lose himself in books and cooking.
Tori Addison is an editor who has worked in the digital marketing industry for over five years. Her experience includes communications and marketing work in the nonprofit, governmental and academic sectors. A journalist by trade, she started her career covering politics and news in New York’s Hudson Valley. Her work included coverage of local and state budgets, federal financial regulations and health care legislation.